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Rear crossmember

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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 08:46 AM
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Default Rear crossmember

I will soon take out my rear end and put it an other rear end that I have rebuild during the winther - when you take of the crossmember it is bolted from both ends to the frame; is it so that you just open the nuts by laying on the floor and you need NOT to hold the bolts somewhere up in the cockpit...and rip the carpet away?
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 08:53 AM
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The nuts are in welded in the frame outside of the interior, no danger of ripping the carpet.
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by shafrs3
The nuts are in welded in the frame outside of the interior, no danger of ripping the carpet.


I dropped mine last year. The crossmember normally will not just fall out. Remove the bolts and then tread them back in 3 or 4 turns so the rear will not come crashing down. I used a long screw driver to try and break it free but that was useless. I then bought a 3' crowbar. With that amount of leverage it didn't take much pressure to pop it free.
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 09:19 AM
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Great, thanks guys for the info
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 11:23 AM
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remove the bolts about 1/2 way and then use two large chissels working one side at a time. Wedge one chissel in front of the bolt between the crossmember and frame and one behind the bolt.
With a big hammer tap back and forth driving the chissels in.
Acts just like a pickel fork.
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
remove the bolts about 1/2 way and then use two large chissels working one side at a time. Wedge one chissel in front of the bolt between the crossmember and frame and one behind the bolt.
With a big hammer tap back and forth driving the chissels in.
Acts just like a pickel fork.

this is the technique i used to get that stubborn crossmember out and it worked great!
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 01:21 PM
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I left the bolts about half way in and used a 2 jaw puller, using the bolt as a center point. Worked great. A lot less effort that trying to pry on it with a prybar or screwdriver.

~Rich
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 03:38 PM
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Rich is spot on!

Go with the 2-jaw gear puller. I borrowed one free from "Auto Zone" Took a matter of seconds after I fussed for an hour with a crowbar

Swede
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SwedeAWACS
Rich is spot on!

Go with the 2-jaw gear puller. I borrowed one free from "Auto Zone" Took a matter of seconds after I fussed for an hour with a crowbar

Swede
The puller seemed to be the safest and easiest for me. I had a really hard time with a prybar...I thought the car was going to come off the jackstands at times when I really had some force on it. Then I used the puller...two minutes later the crossmember was off.
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