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Here's my rad... combined w/ an adams pump and 2 fans (not mounted), remote thermostat (C&R) w/ HD volvo element, constant bypass and adams pump it should be pretty much bulletproof
I consider mine bullit proof. DeWitt's radiator with dual 11" Spal's and an Edelbrock Victer water pump. Can sit and idle all day in any weather and never reaches 200.
69 502....4 row copper/brass/five blade clutch fan..never sees 210 even in 100 f weather....traffic,or otherwise...
78..all stock...can run A/c in 100 F weather..pulling hills at 70 +
mph goes to 205 max...
I would not say these systems are "bullet" proof,but flushing/maintenance important..
I have a 1.25" two core Griffin, factory mechanical fan & shroud, and a Moroso aluminum water pump. Runs consistently at 180F, no matter what the temp or driving condition.
Like Twin Turbo said I have one in front offset to the right and high up and one behind offset low and to the left. The cover the entire rad and overlap in spots.
Most of the time they are turned off while cruising.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I have DeWitts Direct fit with a single 16" fan and 180 thermostat. Car runs on 180 and while idling it will get up to 200 and cool back down to 180. I have had mine for about 5 years now and have had no problems with the setup and am very happy.
Like Twin Turbo said I have one in front offset to the right and high up and one behind offset low and to the left. The cover the entire rad and overlap in spots.
Most of the time they are turned off while cruising.
Don't do what I did! I replaced lots of stuff, DeWitts rad, Shaw Thermo, 40 below, Stewart water pump and the car ran better but not cool enough. Then I got smart. I checked the temp with one of those little lazer things, pyrometer I think. Well, my gauge is off and I replaced a sending unit with one that might not have been 100%. I even bought a NOS plastic shroud for ~ $400! However ...
at the end of the day my BB runs pretty cool in Houston; which is a tall order.
Alright, over the weekend I bought a mech temp gage and verified my stock gage is working properly. Funny thing is though this time the car sat at idle for probably 20-25 min and never got over about 185. BUT I gurantee if I get in traffic it will shoot up like it always does, I also found out my rad is held in with saddles on top and bottom and not the side and top brackets or posts on the bottom as most seem to have. I dont think this rad is that old, bought the car last year and I know I have a receipt for the rad. The guy pretty much replaced everything on the car in the last few years. Not quite sure what I should do, definatley dont want to spend the 1000 If I dont have to!
Bulletproof...its damned near thats for sure... the only time it has come close to overheating was when i drove it with no chin spolier (back and forth from painter)
My set up.
$90 bronze replacement radiator (modine) from local shop. TRW aluminum water pump - Stant thermostat and rad cap...original fan and clutch
This car will idle in socal freeway traffic at 190 degrees...and drop to 180 if traffic moves at about 30mph...
it has never let me down (except when the original radiator sprung several leaks - forcing me to buy the replacement)
Here's my rad... combined w/ an adams pump and 2 fans (not mounted), remote thermostat (C&R) w/ HD volvo element, constant bypass and adams pump it should be pretty much bulletproof
at this rate, nobody will ever know wether or not it really is...
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