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What can everyone recommend as a bullet proof cooling system? I Have a 68 with a 350, already has a BB core support and radiator but I want to get an aluminum 2 core. Going to put a stewart pump on it, a friend has a stage 3 pump I can get, any reason NOT to use the Stage 3 if I can get one for under 100$? What about the modified Robert Shaw stats Stewart recommends for this? Should I get one from them or use a different one? I only want to do this once, money is not a big factor I just want it right once and not have to worry about sitting in traffic geting hot. Right now the thing gets to 210 just from idling in the driveway for 15 min or so, I will probably double check the gauge before I do anything . . . everything is fairly new so Im a little confused why its like this. But with no cap on the rad I cant really see in it to see what sort of shape the cores are in.
aluminum Stewart pump, DeWitt's fan/radiator combo, 1-piece pacecar front spoiler. It runs most of the time at 180. When I turn it off it'll heat soak up to about 200 so the fans turn on when I restart it. They also come on it traffic but that's really the only time it gets above 185 (fan turnon temp).
DeWitts aluminum radiator with dual 11" electric fans. Edel. Victor aluminum water pump. Fans are wired to seperate switches....I usually leave one on....turn on the second if its hot and i'm in traffic.
Are you using the lame 68 metal radiator shroud?
I bought a new 68 SB radiator, and mine didn't improve.
Going to add a pusher fan, and if it still runs hot, going to an aluminum rad.
Gary
I consider mine bullet-proof... It will idle all day in the sun at 180* or run hard under load at 180*.
DeWitts Perfect Fit w/ dual Spals w/190* switch, a factory water pump, and a Stant 180* t-stat. No wierd additives, either. Just 50/50 premix Prestone anti-freeze.
What can everyone recommend as a bullet proof cooling system? I Have a 68 with a 350, already has a BB core support and radiator but I want to get an aluminum 2 core. Going to put a stewart pump on it, a friend has a stage 3 pump I can get, any reason NOT to use the Stage 3 if I can get one for under 100$? What about the modified Robert Shaw stats Stewart recommends for this? Should I get one from them or use a different one? I only want to do this once, money is not a big factor I just want it right once and not have to worry about sitting in traffic geting hot. Right now the thing gets to 210 just from idling in the driveway for 15 min or so, I will probably double check the gauge before I do anything . . . everything is fairly new so Im a little confused why its like this. But with no cap on the rad I cant really see in it to see what sort of shape the cores are in.
thanks again!
I consider mine bullet-proof as well.
Dewitt Direct Fit Aluminum
Dual 11" Spals
Spal PWM Controller (with it's own temp sensor in RH Head)
Separate Relay/Feed for Second fan
180 Thermostat
On my race car, I got a Griffin Universal Radiator with 1 1/4 inch tubes (the better one) and triple electric fans.. (dual Flex-a-Lites as pushers and a single Permacool 2950 cfm fan as puller). I also run a electric water pump!!
All I have is a clutch fan right now and a cheap aluminum pump from china or some other low wage third world country . . I also have the plastic BB fan shroud. If I dont replace the rad what company should I buy the electric fan kit from and what does it come with? Im not much of an electrical guy either.
If you get the dual Spals from DeWitt, everything you need to install it will be in the box. I'm not an electrician either and it was the easiest auto electrical hookup I've ever done.
Mine is very simular to CGGorman's and I concider it bullet proof. Be Cool aluminium rad with dual Spal fans, one at 190 deg w/manual over-ride switch, one on adjustable rheostat, stock water pump. I do however use "wierd" Evens waterless coolant. No thermostat (not driven in winter).
Only on the hottest day in stop and go trafic will it get up to 190.
Check your guage.
Check your thermostat.
Check your pump.
Last edited by jpatrick636; Mar 31, 2006 at 02:25 PM.
Junction Block, Wire and Terminations - M.A.D.
- (it was too easy to just get it all from them
while I was getting the Junction Block - they have high quality stuff)
Temp Sensor - NAPA
That's it. The fan kit comes with a relay kit, and the Spal PWM controller details how to connect the Fans/Relay for "Stepped" operation (i.e. fans come on at dfferent temperatures).
If you are not mech inclined think about fit. I had my stl 3 core rebuilt to 4 core. Fit perfect no mods needed. Add in dual Spals and good switches will do the job. The real test on Vette is hot day + AC.
I use a 3 inch aluminum rad with I believe special order 1 1/2 tubes, twin 16 inch fans and a TRW aluminum water pump spun 30% over motor speed.
It never overheats and most of the time on the open road requires NO fan to keep it in the 185-190 range.