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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 08:04 PM
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Default Basic engine removal question

I have done just about everything on this car myself except pulling the engine. Well now its time to learn how to do that.
I will be pulling the engine without the trans. Where do you seperate the two. I am assuming its transmission to bellhousing and the bellhousing comes out with the engine.
I was going to pull both, but after looking decided it was to much additional work.
Thanks
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 08:17 PM
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A lot of people swear it's better to pull both but I prefer individually since I do everything by myself. If it is an auto is has to be bell at motor, if it is manual it doesn't matter but I think it would be easier to leave the bell on the motor. IMO

Chris
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 08:18 PM
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Auto or manual tranny?
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 09:43 PM
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I just pulled mine by myself, manual tranny. As long as you use a leveler it's a pretty easy job. It's always nice to have a buddy nearby just in case though.

Bill
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 09:44 PM
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I would suggest taking them both out. If your doing an engine rebuild, you might as well have the tranny inspected while its out. You dont want to button up the install of the new engine only to tear your tranny to shreds the first time you get on 'er.

If its a manual, remove the shifter, pull the radiator and shroud, and pull them both out as a unit. both should come out fairly easily. Not sure about auto's... never done it. Its really not that much more work. If your going to do the job, do it right the first time so you dont have to pull it again.

Good luck

Last edited by JoeRags; Apr 1, 2006 at 09:46 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 09:59 PM
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I agree with JoeRags, go ahead and pull em both and get the tranny checked out while its out. No need to half azz what you have worked so hard for at this point.

Good luck!
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 10:42 PM
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I'm putting in a zz4 crate. If pulling both do I disconnect the driveshaft at the u-joint or let the tail pull out of the tranny?
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Roadster71
I'm putting in a zz4 crate. If pulling both do I disconnect the driveshaft at the u-joint or let the tail pull out of the tranny?
If you don't drain the tranny fluid and take the slip yoke out you'll end up with a mess to clean up.
IMO I wouldn't bother taking the tranny out if you don't suspect there's anything wrong with it.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 10:49 PM
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I think you need to disconnect the driveshaft at the transmission and pull the yoke out as well in order to have enough room. Acutally, I'd suggest dropping the whole driveshaft because later on you'll have one fun game trying to get that to go in there while settling the crate engine onto the mounts.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Roadster71
I will be pulling the engine without the trans. Where do you seperate the two. I am assuming its transmission to bellhousing and the bellhousing comes out with the engine.
I was going to pull both, but after looking decided it was to much additional work.
Thanks
I do a lot of engine pulls, and I have pulled Vette engines with and without the tranny. Either way works just fine, but if you want to pull the engine without the tranny (very easy to do), you want to split the engine from the bellhousing by simply pulling the 6ea. 9/16" head fasteners holding the bellhousing to the engine. Don't try to pull the engine with the bellhousing and dropping the tranny off the bellhousing - leave the bellhousing attached to the tranny. Just be sure to support the tranny when you yank the engine. If the engine pull takes you more than 2 hours, you're not drinking enough beer.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Roadster71
I'm putting in a zz4 crate. If pulling both do I disconnect the driveshaft at the u-joint or let the tail pull out of the tranny?
Leave the yoke in the tranny and pull the driveshaft completely out of the car by unbolting the U-Joints. Then, secure the yoke to the tranny with some wire or tape so it doesn't pull out of the tranny during the pull. If it comes out, you'll have a heck of a mess. Get a bag of Kitty Litter at Walmart before you do the pull just in case...
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 11:27 PM
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If you have an oversized oil pan, dropping it in with the trans might make it more difficult. But aligning the input shaft is a pain in the ***. So...

But if it is a manual, pull the clutch fork before you try to separate it from the engine! Don't forget!
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 12:00 AM
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For me, I always take the engine/bellhousing/transmission out and in as a complete "stack." I have a tilt/leveler bar for my hoist, and so with the "stack" in the car, I lift it a little, move it forward, and then tilt the nose of the engine up in the air and accordingly lift the whole thing out of the car. Yes, you have to leave the transmission yoke in the transmission. If you don't oil from the transmission will pour out.

I've removed and replaced C3 engines/bellhousing/transmission stacks several times. I do it by myself. I don't need anyone to help me. (Although It's a little bit more fun to do this with a friend.)

..About engine hoist position. I prefer to remove, say the left front wheel, and then slide the hoist at an orthogonal direction to the body of the car. In other words, I use the hoist to pick the "stack" out with the hoist being on the side of the engine compartment. I'd prefer the hoist to be at the front of the car, but the nose of a corvette is too long for a standard hoist. Hence, I position the hoist at the side of the engine compartment.

Replacing the engine/bellhousing/transmission as a stack makes it easy to mate the manual transmission input shaft to the clutch when you do this outside of the car. With my engine/bellhousing being supported by the hoist, and my transmission sitting on a box, I just push the transmission into the bellhousing and bolt the tranny. Never again will I try to bolt a transmission into a bellhousing while I'm laying underneath the car. Some people say they can do this with no problem. Good for them. I'm just never going to do it unless absolutely necessary.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 01:17 AM
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i would pull the tranny and engine as one. i think its gonna be a pain to line that tranny shaft up that slips into the clutch.. if your not goin to replace your uv joints make sure to throw some tape around the end caps so they dont fall off.. you dont want you loose any of those pin bearings. It isn't hard at all to install the engine back in that car. i had it sitting on its mounts in 15 minutes.. granted i had to do it 3 times.. if your running after market headers, make sure you install them after the engine is in.. good luck. keep us posted
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 09:48 AM
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I have yanked my engine out many times, and can now do it blindfolded. Leave the trans and bellhousing in the car. It will make the job much easier. Have a 12 pack handy...
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 07:22 PM
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If you haven't done this before, I would recommend taking a lot of "before" pictures of wiring harnesses, hoses, brackets, intake, carb, etc. It can be difficult to remember how things go back together. As far as brackets go, you might actually want to number them when you take them off. They don't always go on in a "logical" manner. I would also recommend getting a book on rebuilds. They generally have a lot of good suggestions. Be sure to use a "pick" to break loose the hoses or you could end up with some broken vacuum fittings and switches. Have fun - you'll learn a lot. I did.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 09:48 AM
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Thanks everybody for the input
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Old Apr 9, 2006 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Roadster71
Thanks everybody for the input
Don't be shy, tell um how it only took us 45 minutes to remove the engine with tranny.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 05:04 PM
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A day to prep and 45min. to remove, there's no turning back now!
RESPO6T7, Thanks for the help
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