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Kalway.......me and you both, but they said their were "signs" of detonation. Other circumstances also contributed, included higher that spec'd compression in two cylinders they tested. Other grey area's as well. That's why they covered it under warranty.
I still can't say with 100% certainty that I didn't detonate it, nor can they say I did.
Therefore, the new motor (which is supposed to be shipped today!!)
Well, I got the timing advanced like you said. I have it set to 12 degrees BTDC at idle with the vacuum advance disconnected. I took it out for a test drive and everything seemed better. It did seem to loose a little of the "off the line" acceleration though. Any way, when I got home and went to pull into the driveway, POP!. It backfired again and died. I'm ready to grenade the engine and start over. LOL.
What kind of symptoms would I have if I had some bad plugs or wires? I know that it would hinder performance but what about driveability? I recently replaced the plugs and wires but before I replaced my carb. Could the poor tuning or the new carb setup had caused the plugs to go bad? I would just go out there and pull them but I can't get to them right now. At the hospital with the spouse. Thanks again to all.
Also, due to budget restraints, I had to go with stock style wires. Could this hurt as well?
My neighbor has a really nice BB in his 70 4x4 chevy and suffered the same symptoms you describe after the install of his new Holley. Sent it back to Jegs and put his rebuilt Q-jet back on and has run great for 2 years running now
You did hook the vac advance back up, right? And.....put the light on it again and check and see how much advance you are getting b4 3000 rpm.
Just trying to rule out a timing issue first.....then, maybe someone can help you with that carb, as I no nothing about those.
Yeah, I hooked the vac advance back up. My timing light doesn't measure advance. So now I guess I need a new timing light. One more question though. I have read here on the forum that you can't use the "high output" coils with the stock style wires. Would this cause any of these problems?
Yeah, I hooked the vac advance back up. My timing light doesn't measure advance. So now I guess I need a new timing light.
Get someone to run the car up to 3000 rpm and hold it. Get a reading on your timing light and check it.
What you want is to be very close to 36 or more at that rpm. This is also done with vac unhooked. If you aren't even close, then add some softer springs, and try again.
Next check and see if you are advancing beyond 36.......have the same party hold steady at 3000 rpm, while you reset the light to 0, then have him get on it to raise rpm's.....if you continue to advance, you have gone to far. You need stiffer springs.
Read Lars paper, i'm not to good at explaining this.
Got it. I am gonna go buy a new timing light tomorrow with the "advance" function. Thanks for all of your help. I will let you know what I come up with...
Chilton is for a stock setup and strictly for economy, and is very conservative. You won't hurt anything, just start a 10 if that makes you feel better, and then work your way up.
I am have about 11:1 on pump gas and I get away with 14 no problem
the timing we use most for a mild cam engine is 12 deg initial, 24 degrees mechanical and 10 degrees from the vacuum advance
the carburetor hesitation could be a weak spring on the pump arm, a cure would be the old Barry Grant trick of putting a couple of flat washers on top of the duration spring. be sure the carb has a .031 squirter and a "pink" pump cam #330
some of the holley avenger carbs need a lot of jetting work to get them right
Fuel Pump is brand new. Thought the same thing so I replaced the pump. Got a new timing light a few minutes ago and I am gonna try to check the advance. Thanks to everyone so far for all of your help.
Kalway.......me and you both, but they said their were "signs" of detonation. Other circumstances also contributed, included higher that spec'd compression in two cylinders they tested. Other grey area's as well. That's why they covered it under warranty.
I still can't say with 100% certainty that I didn't detonate it, nor can they say I did.
Therefore, the new motor (which is supposed to be shipped today!!)
The link that MsVetteMan gave you on timing will also lead you to a lot of other very good information. Here is the link to the index for additional articles in that same page http://69.253.166.197/page1/page65/files/. That takes you to an index of some very good technical information written by Lars and a few other authors.
In there is a very well written article on setting up your Holley carb. Lars takes a very methodical approach to setting up the systems. He stresses that they must be done in a specific order since setting up most of them is dependent on getting prior adjustments correct. Start at the beginning of the adjustment procedure and work your way through. When you're done, you should not only have a properly adjusted Holley, but you will probably have a much greater understanding of your carb and how it work. Good luck!
If it is back firing i would think that it needs more timing. Everyengine is different. I have 10 to 1 compression pistons in mine and i am at 18 initial timing. I also put 202 intake and 160 exahst valves in the heads. Try bumping it up a little and as you are looking at the mark, raise the engine RPM's withthe other hand. You should be able to see the timing go up then top out at probly somewhere around 3000 or less, depending on the springs. You can raise you timing as long as it does not go over 35 total timing when it tops out.