A/C Compressor - Working or Not?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 238
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
A/C Compressor - Working or Not?
I want to convert my 80 coupe A/C over to the R134 and Echlers sells a kit which includes a remanufactured compressor which will operate with R134A Refrigerant, a drier, an evaporator orifice and the oil, seals, fittings and adapters.
When I put the control to A/C, the compressor doesn't come on.
So, I don't know if my compressor is any good. I had a friend check it with his gauges and said it didn't have any freon in it, but that was about as far as he went.
I know nothing about A/C but want to learn to do it myself. Does anyone know how to test a A/C compressor to see if it is still in working order without filling it with freon?
Can anyone help me or just give good advice?
When I put the control to A/C, the compressor doesn't come on.
So, I don't know if my compressor is any good. I had a friend check it with his gauges and said it didn't have any freon in it, but that was about as far as he went.
I know nothing about A/C but want to learn to do it myself. Does anyone know how to test a A/C compressor to see if it is still in working order without filling it with freon?
Can anyone help me or just give good advice?
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 1
From: grand prairie texas
If you unhook the lines from the back of the compressor you can put a socket on the pully side of the compressor and by rotating the end shaft you will be able to put your finger over the holes from where you removed the lines and one side will suck and the other side will blow air. To check the clutch on the pully you can find a 12 volt source and touch the wire to the hot side of the connector and the clutch should engage and release. There is a low pressure switch that protects your compressor from damage when the freon is low.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
I think I would do the electrical checks and make sure the clutch engages without opening the system. If there is SOME but low pressure the low pressure cutout switch might be doing its job and not letting the compressor come on. If thats the case, it would be worth a can of R12 to get the system going. If you have to open the system for any reason you will need to flush and vacuume it down, then recharge. If you go with the R134 you can use the existing compressor but the seals and oil and orifice tube have to be changed and system flush.
Its not hard, I taught myself to work on the system with the service man and some good advice.
Its not hard, I taught myself to work on the system with the service man and some good advice.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,720
Likes: 12
From: Chattanooga TN
You can jump the low pressure switch on the accumulator and see if the compressor turns. With gauges you can see if it's pumping.
I have had mixed results with R4 compressors and R134 retrofits. They sometimes eat the front seal. Not nearly as bad as Japaneese cars, I won't even attempt a retrofit without changing the compressor on any of those.
My advice, find the leak then put on a rebuilt compressor, new accumulator and expansion tube. I did a survey about a year ago, and R134 and R12 both seemed to do as good a job with a late C3 A/C setup. Do the 134 conversion or keep it R12, the cost is about the same now.
I have had mixed results with R4 compressors and R134 retrofits. They sometimes eat the front seal. Not nearly as bad as Japaneese cars, I won't even attempt a retrofit without changing the compressor on any of those.
My advice, find the leak then put on a rebuilt compressor, new accumulator and expansion tube. I did a survey about a year ago, and R134 and R12 both seemed to do as good a job with a late C3 A/C setup. Do the 134 conversion or keep it R12, the cost is about the same now.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,502
Likes: 138
From: Butler Pa
If you're converting it to R134, why do you care if the old compressor is any good?
If there's no freon in it, you need to bypass the pressure switch to make it run, but if there's no freon, there's probably no oil in it either and it'll burn up very quickly.
If there's no freon in it, you need to bypass the pressure switch to make it run, but if there's no freon, there's probably no oil in it either and it'll burn up very quickly.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Bash, the jumper is just a check to see if the system works or not. Why change a compressor if the system can be fixed cheaply?
Markdn, I did some research and the R4 compressor is supposed to leak at the front seal a bit for bearing lube, weird but thats what the book says. In the conversion the seal needs to be changed anyway
Markdn, I did some research and the R4 compressor is supposed to leak at the front seal a bit for bearing lube, weird but thats what the book says. In the conversion the seal needs to be changed anyway
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
thats what he says, but like I said, no reason to do all that is the existing system can be made to work without all that. If its just a seal, vacuume down and recharge, why spring for the whole kit?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 238
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
Thanks for all the advice. I was looking at the kit if I had to replace everything.
I've heard good things and bad things about doing a conversion on the compressor. If it works still, I will try and convert it. If it doesn't then I will buy the whole kit. It's cheaper that way.
Anyway, thank everyone very much!
I've heard good things and bad things about doing a conversion on the compressor. If it works still, I will try and convert it. If it doesn't then I will buy the whole kit. It's cheaper that way.
Anyway, thank everyone very much!