Keisler 5 speed install problems?
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Keisler 5 speed install problems?
The Keisler directions are not clear in a few areas. My main problem now on my 79 conversion from auto to manual is:
One end of the clutch actuation rod has to be supported by a supplied tab with a ball end attachment to the frame rail. What do I do with my brake line splitter that is mounted right where this tab has to go and how is this clutch tab attached to the frame? Does it have to be welded?
problem # 2 - The conversion kit doesn't come with any template or pictures of how to cut the console for the shifter. How's that done?
One end of the clutch actuation rod has to be supported by a supplied tab with a ball end attachment to the frame rail. What do I do with my brake line splitter that is mounted right where this tab has to go and how is this clutch tab attached to the frame? Does it have to be welded?
problem # 2 - The conversion kit doesn't come with any template or pictures of how to cut the console for the shifter. How's that done?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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Isn't it a bolt in install? If so, why do you have to cut the shifter plate? automatics and manuals used the same plate, if it was truely bolt in all you'd have to do was order one of those metal foil covers to stick over the automatic gaer indicator.
As for the frame moutn of the clutch rod, why not use a hydraulic setup and save yourself the aggrivation of the mechanical setup (or is there no hydraulic slave cyl. available for that tranny???)
Sorry I cant be more help.
As for the frame moutn of the clutch rod, why not use a hydraulic setup and save yourself the aggrivation of the mechanical setup (or is there no hydraulic slave cyl. available for that tranny???)
Sorry I cant be more help.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
http://www.keislerauto.com/gm/transm...h-link-kit.asp
Scroll down to the bottom kit. $459
That three sided black mild steel tab has to be attached some how.
My automatic console only has a small forward hole where the shift cable went through. I have to cut a shifter hole toward the rear. I'm not even sure how big a hole it needs.
Scroll down to the bottom kit. $459
That three sided black mild steel tab has to be attached some how.
My automatic console only has a small forward hole where the shift cable went through. I have to cut a shifter hole toward the rear. I'm not even sure how big a hole it needs.
Last edited by gkull; Apr 10, 2006 at 11:55 AM.
Race Director
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oh you mean the floor, yeah mine had that also, a rounf dimple w/ a a little hole where a boot bolted to and the dable went through. I have no idea where or how to cut the floor for that kit.
That tab, maybe it has to be sandwiched between the prop valve and frame bracket?
That tab, maybe it has to be sandwiched between the prop valve and frame bracket?
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: VetteMOD
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
I am not seeing any bronze tab in the picture but the 3 sided bracket in the picture needs to be welded to the frame. It is the support for the z-bar. It is directly across from the ball pivot that is on the engine block. There are some other hardware pieces you will need that don't seem to be pictured in the kit.
Not sure about the brake line.
Not sure about the brake line.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
For cutting the floor you need to start small. Measure the length of the transmission from the mounting face to the center of the shifter tower. Put the bellhousing on the motor and measure the same distance from the bellhousing face to a spot on the floor, mark it and cut a small hole.
Later you will have to enlarge the hole and move it slightly side to side but it is better to cut 3 or 4 times then to make a mess of it the first time.
I agree with the hydraulic clutch but since you don't have a slave cylinder and probably don't want to make a bracket and use one why not eliminate the brake splitter and just hook the lines up directly??
By this I mean remove the light switch/proportioning valve and replumb the brake lines.
Later you will have to enlarge the hole and move it slightly side to side but it is better to cut 3 or 4 times then to make a mess of it the first time.
I agree with the hydraulic clutch but since you don't have a slave cylinder and probably don't want to make a bracket and use one why not eliminate the brake splitter and just hook the lines up directly??
By this I mean remove the light switch/proportioning valve and replumb the brake lines.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by gkull
I am not impressed if what is shown in the picture is what you get for $459
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
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From: Knoxville Tennessee
Although I didn't do the Keisler swap the hole should be in the same location where the auto shifter bolted. Your console should not have to be cut. I test fit my manual T5 with the engine slanted low enough so that I could see where the shifter would go thru the tunnel, pulled the tranny out of the way and cut the hole with a cutoff wheel from under the car. Be sure to wear eye protection.
As for the clutch; hydraulic is the only way to go! The master cylinder from a 1985 one ton chevy has the correct angle to line up with your clutch pedal, just needs to be shortened. The slave cylinder from the same truck works on a chevy bell housing too.
I hope you get it together soon. You will not believe the difference the manual makes!
Bernie
As for the clutch; hydraulic is the only way to go! The master cylinder from a 1985 one ton chevy has the correct angle to line up with your clutch pedal, just needs to be shortened. The slave cylinder from the same truck works on a chevy bell housing too.
I hope you get it together soon. You will not believe the difference the manual makes!
Bernie
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Team Owner
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
that's exactly what I was thinking when I saw that there's not even for 100$ worth of parts there IMO.In defence of Keisler. That picture doesn't show all the parts included for the $459.00 It's also the petals..............
I'm surprised that they don't have a Hydro clutch also. Especialy when I ordered the big foot pound clutch
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by gkull
In defence of Keisler. That picture doesn't show all the parts included for the $459.00 It's also the petals..............
I'm surprised that they don't have a Hydro clutch also. Especialy when I ordered the big foot pound clutch
I'm surprised that they don't have a Hydro clutch also. Especialy when I ordered the big foot pound clutch
I also agree that keisler should offer the hydraulic setup. I thought at one time they did but ran into problems with getting the master cylinders???
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
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From: Knoxville Tennessee
I bought a set of pedals at a swap meet for $75.00, bead blasted them and painted. Keisler did offer hydraulic clutches at one time. I wouldn't install a manual tranny in a car without using a hyd clutch. Unless it was for an original 4 speed car that would loose value with the modification.
Bernie
Bernie
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 236
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From: Jacksonville FL
Originally Posted by gkull
In defence of Keisler. That picture doesn't show all the parts included for the $459.00 It's also the petals..............
I'm surprised that they don't have a Hydro clutch also. Especialy when I ordered the big foot pound clutch
I'm surprised that they don't have a Hydro clutch also. Especialy when I ordered the big foot pound clutch
I finally installed the regular bearing and fork, and will try to use a slave cylinder in the future. I'll just have to figure out where and how to mount it without welding to the Lakewood scatter shield...
Oh yeah, I asked about the lack of a template last year - the proposed solution was raising the tranny slowly with the tower removed, and marking where to cut the tunnel.
for a supposedly bolt-in kit. I guess that means you have to install the engine and tranny twice, or have to lower the body twice - first time being to measure where to cut
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
It's not like I'm the first install. How hard would it have been to just take a few pictures and a simple explaination to include with the directions.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Jacksonville FL
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
that's exactly what I was thinking when I saw that there's not even for 100$ worth of parts there IMO. There are more parts included, but not the part that was most important for me - the pedal 'housing', or whatever you would call it. My original was badly damaged by rust. If you look at the mag article on Keisler's website, they show a fully assembled brake/clutch pedal assembly. That's what I thought I was going to get. Instead, I get a bag full of little parts, with no housing!I've given up, and will dump the stock pedals for a Wilwood assembly that will put the cylinders under the dash. Since I'm fabricating a new floorpan, I think this will work (I hope). This way, I'll clean up the engine bay a little more, and can customize pedal placement some.
Race Director
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so, the pedals is not a pedal kit but just a new brake and clutch pedal that you have to mount in the pedal box itself? Wow, hefty price even then. I paid 50$ for a complete box, I know that's cheap but I'm fairly certain you can get a used pedal box, a clutch master and slave and fab a line w/ some enduraflex fittings and hose and it'll cost you less than 460 for sure.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Knoxville Tennessee
Chris,
I have a pedal box that you can have if you need one; just pay for the freight. It has an auto brake pedal that can be cut to make it like a manual and you will need a clutch pedal for it. It is yours if you can use it.
Bernie
I have a pedal box that you can have if you need one; just pay for the freight. It has an auto brake pedal that can be cut to make it like a manual and you will need a clutch pedal for it. It is yours if you can use it.
Bernie
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 236
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From: Jacksonville FL
Originally Posted by BerniesVette
Chris,
I have a pedal box that you can have if you need one; just pay for the freight. It has an auto brake pedal that can be cut to make it like a manual and you will need a clutch pedal for it. It is yours if you can use it.
Bernie
I have a pedal box that you can have if you need one; just pay for the freight. It has an auto brake pedal that can be cut to make it like a manual and you will need a clutch pedal for it. It is yours if you can use it.
Bernie