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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 01:08 PM
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Default Frame paint input

I am planning on detailing my frame with the body on.

Any recommendations on frame paint?

Is the asphalt based stuff ZIP sells good? What about POR 15?

Is it better to brush / roll it on or use spray can.

All input welcome.

Thanks,
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 03:29 PM
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Im doing mine with the body on,easiest way is to brush it on.
im using hammerite on mine looks great so far,i used engine paint on the calipers
Check out my pics at photobucket: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v600/Trayzer/
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 04:52 PM
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I have the underbody stripped (w/body still on) and I'm going to do the POR15 thing. I went through and wire-wheeled everything I could and am going to clean with Mirine Clean, the the Metal Ready for the steel and onto the POR 15 brushing. I think I'll still need to buy some kind of spray stuff. There are a bunch of areas that I simply won't be able to reach.
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by stingraymaniac
Im doing mine with the body on,easiest way is to brush it on.
im using hammerite on mine looks great so far,i used engine paint on the calipers
Check out my pics at photobucket: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v600/Trayzer/
Hammerite is what I use on the frame also. I don't know how you got black though. Thy black I get is like gunmetal. I like it though.


Last edited by Yellow73SB; Apr 15, 2006 at 05:02 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Yellow73SB
Hammerite is what I use on the frame also. I don't know how you got black though. Thy black I get is like gunmetal. I like it though.
well here in sweden there is no grey solid color
they have the hammered grey but only silver and black in solid color...
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 08:40 PM
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I jacked my body up off the frame 3 inches to do this and to rebuild the entire drive train, it was the dirtiest work I've done to a car, grinding off all that rust, paint and dirt, I did POR15 with the marine clean and metal ready, the POR15 is self leveling and looks real good, the best part is that I don't get very dirty working under my car now.
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 11:20 PM
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por-15'd everything, the shell, the frame and all the parts and then topcoated everything cept the shell. now doing the front end the same way to match the rear. don't spray it, brush it on and wear surgical gloves
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 11:31 AM
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That is impressive!!! How long did it take you to do all of that work?
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 07:36 PM
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I used a wire brush on an angle grinder for most of the areas, and then a wire brush on a drill for tight spots. Then I used rustoleum primer and semi-gloss black from a spray can. I then topped it off with a rubberized undercoating spray from 3M. Places that remained visible black without the undercoating spray, I used krylon semi-gloss black from a spray can.

Engine temp aluminum spray for the exhaust, and rustoleum stainless steel color for my shafts and camber rods. Krylon gray for my rear springs, with rustoleum primer underneath all the metal parts i sprayed.

I sprayed rustoleum aluminum on the gast tank from what I could reach (body on). I painted it silver, then covered with christmas wrapping paper (big sheets, coated to prevent leak through) before I sprayed undercoating on the black areas.

Tight areas I touched with a brush and a can of rustoleum black.

http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j102/SWEDEAWACS/
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 07:41 PM
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Wow!

Great pics and input.

Thanks!
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 77 vette
it was the dirtiest work I've done to a car, grinding off all that rust, paint and dirt, I did POR15 with the marine clean and metal ready, the POR15 is self leveling and looks real good, the best part is that I don't get very dirty working under my car now.
I lost three pairs of pants and three sweatshirts to this job. I POR-15'd the frame, then Eastwoods Chasis Black topcoat. Brushing it on eliminates all the masking of spray, but some masking does help keep certain parts clear of the brush. (brake lines, fuel lines, etc) A bit of frame sanding also helps create a smoother finish in the "highly visable" areas. Since my engines out...I'm almost finished with the forward frame rails. Will post pics when completed.
Eddie
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by NuclearBob
That is impressive!!! How long did it take you to do all of that work?
took about 3 weeks, wasn't in a big hurry, just wanted it done super clean and done rite. after it's done u forget all about what a PITA it was to do and then move on to another project
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 02:14 AM
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Nice photos guys Sweeeeeeeet! If possible while it still drives, take the car to a place who puts the car on a lift and high pressure hot water clean, removes alot of stuff .make shure they are running 3000 psi or more and 130F or higher if not it's no better than the quarter wash place. Guys that do this also do undercoating they will just wash for you.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 77 vette
I jacked my body up off the frame 3 inches to do this and to rebuild the entire drive train, it was the dirtiest work I've done to a car, grinding off all that rust, paint and dirt, I did POR15 with the marine clean and metal ready, the POR15 is self leveling and looks real good, the best part is that I don't get very dirty working under my car now.
Yup, POR-15 is definately a good product. I don't know how it compares to other frame paints, but my frame turned out great and I thoroughly recommend it. It is very self-leveling and looks great being brushed on. Just be sure to wear gloves and long sleeves when you paint. You will not get the paint off of your hands and you'll look like a freak for a week or two until the paint wears off of your hand.

If I remember right, about 1-1.5 pints is what I used for a single coat on the frame.

The only thing to keep in mind is that POR-15 will change its color slightly if left in sunlight for a prolonged period of time (they even say this on their webpage). I found that the semi-gloss black turns a kind of smokey dark-grey color. To rectify this problem, i just topcoated the POR-15 with krylon.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Hinz-73
Any recommendations on frame paint?
I have been using Eastwood Encapsulator. Easy to use and looks great, see if it lasts...
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 09:41 AM
  #16  
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I just sprayed the front portion of the frame (frame-on) with Eastwood RE, followed by their X-treme Chassis Satin black last night. Have to wait till after afternoon to see if it leveled any. Hope it lasts!!!
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 01:03 PM
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The Eastwood X-treme Chassis Satin black takes forever to dry!!!
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Victor
Yup, POR-15 is definately a good product. I don't know how it compares to other frame paints, but my frame turned out great and I thoroughly recommend it. It is very self-leveling and looks great being brushed on. Just be sure to wear gloves and long sleeves when you paint. You will not get the paint off of your hands and you'll look like a freak for a week or two until the paint wears off of your hand.

If I remember right, about 1-1.5 pints is what I used for a single coat on the frame.

The only thing to keep in mind is that POR-15 will change its color slightly if left in sunlight for a prolonged period of time (they even say this on their webpage). I found that the semi-gloss black turns a kind of smokey dark-grey color. To rectify this problem, i just topcoated the POR-15 with krylon.
I can vouch for why you need to use gloves...got stupid when i saw a piece i missed and didnt use them for 'just a minute'...
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Old Apr 29, 2006 | 10:45 AM
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From the pics,I must say that you guys have done a nice job! I'm inspired to get going on the frame detail now! Thanks for sharing them!
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