Sticking front caliper!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 19
Sticking front caliper!
I rebuilt the front calipers on my 68 with VB&P O ring kits last fall due to leaks. I've put a few hundred miles on it since then with great results. I also geased the bearings and checked run out, all OK.
Now I've got a left pull on braking. And after a few miles I have a right front pull that increases with driving, no braking involved. I jacked up the car and the right front caliper is sticking on the rotor. After about 20 minute, it frees up.
I've been told deteriorating brake lines can cause this. The brake lines are old, but look OK outside.
Opinions? Just go ahead and replace the calipers and brakes, or try new brake ines first?
Now I've got a left pull on braking. And after a few miles I have a right front pull that increases with driving, no braking involved. I jacked up the car and the right front caliper is sticking on the rotor. After about 20 minute, it frees up.
I've been told deteriorating brake lines can cause this. The brake lines are old, but look OK outside.
Opinions? Just go ahead and replace the calipers and brakes, or try new brake ines first?
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,371
Likes: 223
From: Beecher Illinois
Sounds like the exact symptons I had on my black 79 a while back. Rotor would cool down and allow the wheel to turn again. Disconnected the front brake hose from the caliper and pumped the brakes. No fluid. Took the hose off and pumped the brakes, fluid came out the line. Hose was clogged/swollen shut. Replaced em.
Mike
Mike
Intermediate
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Royse City tx
I assume the reference to stainless steel flexible hoses really refers to braided hoses. The hoses are still rubber but they have a braid of stainless steel on the outside. As a result, the hoses don't expand during braking and the result is a harder pedal. It is a good upgrade and I recommend it. They are available from most of the catalogs, ebay and VBP. Remember VBP gives a 10% discount to forum members. You may also want to go with new brake lines front and back. If you do so, don't forget to get new brass connector blocks for the rear. I recommend stainless lines but steel lines would more than likely be someone elses problem unless you are in your 30s. You should make sure your rotor thickness is within spec. Mine were getting thin and the entire righte wheel would heat up causing a pull to the right.
regards
regards
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,101
Likes: 3
From: Cruising somewhere in St. Louis, Missouri
you have a clog in the line....take a stiff wire that will fit in there and ram it up from the caliper and you will unclog it. Most of ther clogs happen where the steel line meets the rubber line.
I just did this.
Jim
I just did this.
Jim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,506
Likes: 139
From: Butler Pa
Not to hijack your post, but I just replaced the master cylinder and all the steel brake lines. I'm trying to bleed them, but can't get any fluid to the left rear. Could the rubber hose be the problem?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 19
If you're trying to gravity or vacuum bleed, then that's probably the problem. Vacuum bleeding collapses the hose inside. I already replace my rears because of this, but the fronts appeared newer and had no problems in bleeding. Guess I'll know better next time.
Gary
Gary
Originally Posted by bashcraft
Not to hijack your post, but I just replaced the master cylinder and all the steel brake lines. I'm trying to bleed them, but can't get any fluid to the left rear. Could the rubber hose be the problem?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,506
Likes: 139
From: Butler Pa
Originally Posted by Garys 68
If you're trying to gravity or vacuum bleed, then that's probably the problem. Vacuum bleeding collapses the hose inside. I already replace my rears because of this, but the fronts appeared newer and had no problems in bleeding. Guess I'll know better next time.
Gary
Gary
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 929
Likes: 5
From: Marietta GA
Also check the caliper itself. I bought the VB&P O-Ring conversion kit and it worked well for a little while and then the pistons coc-ked in the bores. Of the sixteen pistons on the car, 4 were stuck in their bores and wouldn't move. My opinion was that a stock lip seal piston was modified to accept an o-ring seal but that the lip seal is more tolerant of piston to wall clearance than the o-ring set up. This is just my experience as others on this forum have had many trouble free miles with the VB&P set up. You might pull the calipers and check the positions of the pistons.