I'm working on getting them in. The upper bushing are offset from center to allow more negative camber adjustment and they claim improves geometry.

The instructions say to offset the bushing to the 2 o'clock position if looking at the driver's side control arm from the front. That's what i did on the drivers side because i had a ton of shims in to get negative camber. Now i should be able to use just a few shims and get the same camber adjustment.

But on the passenger side i have just one thick shim in. If i install as per directions i won't be able to get to 0 camber and will have way too much negative. So i'm gonna install it straight up.

Now the question is should i install it at the 12 o'clock position (lowering the control arm) or at the 6 o'clock position ( raising the control arm) Does the height of the control arm at the cross shaft have an impact on camber change during wheel compression????

The grease zirks are totally out of position on these things. I'll never be able to grease them. I don't know what the hell they were thinking when they positioned them.

 

Lowering the cross shaft will give more negative camber gain. It will also change your roll center. How much offset are you talking about?

Ken

 

not much, about 3/16"

 

If anyone is interested I have an extra set of arms with solid bushings installed...e-mail DIRECT!!
redvetracr@msn.com

 

Moog sells offset shafts, wonder if that will solve your dilema.

 

picts if anyone is interested.

lower




upper

 

While your at it can you measure you lower cross shaft diameter if possible along with the outter diamater of the bigger part of the bushing that slides into the a-arm on the lowers. Those uppers offset it alot.

Maybe im better of buying lowers from guldstrand. becuase these appear to have some kind of lining.

91634034 STL LOW BUSHING/1.400x.500
91634035 STL LOW BUSHING/1.450x.500
91634036 STL LOW BUSHING/1.650x.500
91634037 STL LOW BUSHING/1.650x.563
91634038 STL LOW BUSHING/1.910x.563

 

I can measure when i do the other side. The cross shafts were pretty beat up but i reused them anyway. I'm afraid i'd end up with chinese steel if i got new ones. Still had a decent fit though and the side i did so far doesn't rattle or ride any harsher than before.

17 inch tires make the damn thing ride harsh. Thats for damn sure.

Them grease zirks are going to be a bitch to get to on the top arm.

 

You can make hoses to replace the zirk fitting to make it easier to reach, or even a hard line. I used to do it all the time on boats and mowers. Just attach it securely to the control arm so it moves with it since the zerk will be moving with the bushing and arm.

 

Hey turtlevet, I installed the guldstrand solid lower control are bushing and had the same problem with the zerk fitting positions. Needless to say I have lost some respect for thier products from this experience. I did however managed to find an auto parts store with a selection of zerk fittings that had several different angles (90 and 45). After $9.00 in fittings, some loud cussing, spreading the bushing area of the arm with a porta power and some grinding in the bushing lip part of the aarm to make a notch for the zerk, I was able to get one of the two above mentioned zerks to fit in each bushing. As it turns out the angled zerks actually make lubing easier. Good luck and put the kids in the house when you start this project.

 

Do you have a bench grinder? I ground down my deformities and then polished the parts that slides into the bushings (with brass wirewheel). They move so nicely now.

 

If you had problems with the grease fittings on the bottoms that was user error. Those don't have to go in any certain way so when you install them you angle them so they will be easier accessed.

 

damn dude......didn't that hurt?


yep, the inside sleeve of the old poly bushings were rust welded to the cross shaft so i had to carefully grind it off. Polished the cross shafts with sand paper and they fit pretty darn good even for being gouged up so bad.