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arrrgh, my welding stinks

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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 08:53 PM
  #41  
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[QUOTE=evil herbavore]I'm a newbie to welding....so let me ask the simple stuff;
oops -deleted the questions...oh well,answers:


common for production welding to be done on a steel table, ground cable terminates in a lug that is bolted to the table, no clamp used, metal table to metal workpiece contact is sufficient.

the cleaner, the better....there are times ,such as the vette frame, where removal of rust between the parts is not feasible, thats when 6xxx stick is best
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 09:04 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Yellow73SB
How much does sheild gas help? What exactly does it do? I know need to get some but is it that major? I'll ask my dad if he can pick me up some from the place by our shop.
if you try to run solid core mig wire without shield gas, you end up with the birdsh*t mess on the right side of the pic, and almost no strength...you need co2/argon mix (ususlly called 75/25 based on mix percentages) to weld mild steel, or straight argon at slightly higher cost makes better welds... flux core wire (mig) does not need shielding gas and can be used outdoors
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 09:06 PM
  #43  
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Im using flux core right now. The sheidling gas should help though right? And I do weld out side.
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 09:39 PM
  #44  
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flux core wire is made to be used without gas...i've never seen it written up as a ''qualified'' welding procedure using both...outdoors the shield gas is carried away too fast to be of any benefit...indoors the gas shield produces stronger welds and requires only spatter removal (if desired) prior to painting or other cosmetics,multi-pass welding can be done without flux chipping time/effort on thick plates using gas
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 11:22 PM
  #45  
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redrose, just exactly how did you weld 20ga with 3/32 6011.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 12:22 AM
  #46  
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The wire feed box is a lincon weld pack 100. Maybe I should check the wire. I thought it was flux core but maybe thats the problem. The weld looked so bad to me with the box at full strength I abandoned it for the stick welder. I appreciate all the advice. i burned up a 2 # bag of 6013. Another question, could I have brased the seam instead?
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 07:42 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by redrose
straight argon at slightly higher cost makes better welds...
You can not use straight argon for welding steel. It doesn't have the wetting agent of CO2 to allow the weld to flow out. Sure in machine welding you get away with pure argon but that is under extreme high power.
For a normal hand held gun you need the mix of Carbon Dioxide to get the weld to flow out. Here we use 85/15 CO2
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 07:45 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by panchop
Another question, could I have brased the seam instead?
NO to brazing the seams. Far too much heat is put into the frame.
You never answered me before about if the welding is on the flat. If so a 7024 would really run better then anything else.
You can not get 7034 anymore but that 3 makes it a real flowing rod.

Flux core digs like stick so stay away from it.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 08:01 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
You can not use straight argon for welding steel. It doesn't have the wetting agent of CO2 to allow the weld to flow out. Sure in machine welding you get away with pure argon but that is under extreme high power.
For a normal hand held gun you need the mix of Carbon Dioxide to get the weld to flow out. Here we use 85/15 CO2
fyi...old trick when doing welding test coupons by MANUAL weld is to use straight argon in place of the co2/argon specified in the qualified weld procedure, hope the inspector doesn't catch em
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 08:06 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by chewy
redrose, just exactly how did you weld 20ga with 3/32 6011.
you just move the stinger very fast...actually so fast that you are not watching the puddle form...not for first day welders but with a little practice you can do it just fine
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 11:12 AM
  #51  
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frame is flat. maybe i'll try to find some 7024 today.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 11:21 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by panchop
frame is flat. maybe i'll try to find some 7024 today.
7024 are the easiest starting rods going. They are for the complete novice, do not bit in too hard, easy to start and don't care about AC, DC or polarity. Give them a try and if a welding supply house ask about 7034. They are like water and flow out really well.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 07:38 PM
  #53  
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7024 only came in a 50 # tin, guy suggested I try some 7014 so i picked some up.
Thanks for all the help and advice folks.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 08:23 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by panchop
7024 only came in a 50 # tin, guy suggested I try some 7014 so i picked some up.
Thanks for all the help and advice folks.
7014 is a farmers rod. Good for everything. It too doesn't care about AC DC polarity. All position rod, easy to start and a tensile strength of 70,000 psi
The first two numbers is tensile strength
The next number is position. 1 being all position, 2 flat or fillet only and 3 flat only and the last number is a flux number. The flux gives the characteristics of the rod.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 09:23 PM
  #55  
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Cool, learned something simple (rod numbering)....



Can I assume the higher the tensile strength, the less ductile the filler area will be?
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