Overcharging batteries is bad and is not part of the original design. The voltage regulator "regulates" voltage by varying the output current. It will try to do this even as the rpm varies. Since the voltage regulator "regulates" voltage, and therefore current, the required hp to accomplish this feat is proportionally "regulated". The alternator will not keep charging a "full" battery. Overcharging a battery can cause excessive H2 gas and corrosion, and possibly an explosion.
If you have a fully charged battery with the engine running, place an inductive ammeter on the "bat" wire to the alternator, then take readings as you add load like lights, blower motor, electric fans, etc., you should see an increase in alternator output (amps) to run these items. If you aren't conviced that the power that runs these things comes from the v-belt (crankshaft), then remove it and make note of any changes.

 

I did thanks and came to the fact they they used one way too small for the application. Meaning the Weiand Team G Electric Water Pumps is rated for 16-18 gpm, and that is not enough for the street, maybe the strip.

The Meziere 300 Series Electric Water Pump is rated at 55 gpm, big difference.

I think that is why Gkull's car gets hot around town, as it flows 70% less, not to knock on Gkull's setup

 

I'm running the Team -G racing mechanical pump. Because I have motors that turn 7500 rpm and I don't want cavitation. My previous 383 used a under driven pulleys and a high flow pump. The article ended with this statement.

WOULD A RaCING PUMP HAVE WORKED BETTER?

You're probably wondering why we didn't also test a Weiand Team G race pump? That's because, while those pumps will use even less power to run than the street pump, they're designed for a higher rpm usage than this motor would see. The racing pumps are typically made for circle track engines that rarely run below 4,000 rpm. Our street engine will rarely see above 4,000 rpm so we thought that'd kinda' be like running slicks on the street. Sure, we know it'd work better, but it doesn't make sense for the everyday commute. Also, race pumps have impellers that are designed for efficiency at high rpm and will flow even less water at idle. Therefore, they may also cause overheating in traffic, just like underdriving your pump might do.

 

My bad... I thought you were an elec pump, but you were running a mech one instead.

 

thanks

 

Well consider this, I have a BeCool aluminum rad with their dual-spal setup (4600cfm) and even when I'm running hard under constant load, the rad does a good enough job at cooling that my thermostat cycles open / closed. If the cooling were inadequate, the thermostat would be pegged open.

something to consider with an electric pump... due to the corvette's outward mounted alternator, you have to make sure you have proper belt clearance once that electric pump is installed. All those machined units with centrally-mounted motors (i.e. maziere) seem like they'd be okay... but moroso's polished unit definitely *does not fit*... speaking from experience here. it interferes directly with the alternator belt path.

 

Ok.. good points, but you point brings me back to basics. Does the water pump mostly provide just the flow and the radiator and fans provide mostly the cooling?

 

I agree with all of what you say, but don't think that it is relevant to the question of mechanical load.

 

I put an electric water pump in my race car this year. It's a Summit unit rated at 37 GPM. I also installed dual Spal fans. The engine compartment is really cleaned up without the old pump and shroud. Last year with the stock setup I would see temps over 230 when racing. I recently ran Hallet, a 3+ mile road course. Running for 15 minute sessions I never saw the water temps go over 210 with the electric pump. The other benefit is I can now circulate the water without running the engine. This brings the temps down to under 150 in less than 2 minutes. I don't believe that this setup is only good for drag racing. I have run an electric (Mezier) on my C4 for 3 years. It's a daily driver and has been raced as well. Never saw temps above 205 during summer here in Texas. When racing temps would get to 220. As to reliability. These pumps are rated for 2000 hrs. which equates to about 5 years of driving. Not too different than what you'd expect from a mechanical pump. In addition at higher RPMs there more stress on a mechanical pump both with turbine speed as well as side loads from the belt. With the electric the output (and stress) is constant. If an electric fails it's no different than if a mechanical one fails. You are stuck. As to power draw. The Summit pump draws about 6-7 amps. Not a tremendous load. The Spal fans draw much more. I did wind up installing a 140 amp alternator because of the fans (the Spal and one for the trans cooler). You definitely do need adequate electrical power for a setup like this because if the voltage is reduced both the pump and fans become ineffective. Bottom line is I'm happy with the setup so far and hopefully in July and August it will still keep the car cool.

 

I agree with this statement except for the part where you say if an electric or mechanical pump fails you're still stuck either way. You may be stuck worse trying to get an electric pump from parts stores than if you needed a mechanical. Very few parts stores keep electric pumps(especially one for a particular application) sitting on the shelf the way they do mechanical units.

 

Paul........thanks all good info and what I wanted to hear. Have you run in yet on the 90 deg days? I am about 30-40 min from you and I know we have had a few days like this already?
Any pics, as I would like to see the actual setup?

 

thanks for reading; i thought they were talking about parasitic drag on the engine, or comparisons of power required to run the accessories; sorry i just missed the topic.
Yes, sort of, but there are limits. Too much flow rate and the radiator will not be able to transfer enough total heat, and too low a flow rate yields the same. Also, i think that the oil system accounts for something like 20-30% of total engine cooling (memory). Some forum member have this number handy. So one can add oil cooler if water cooler is not enough.

 

I don't understand how this cleans up the engine compartment. It still bolts to the front of the engine and has a bigass inlet from the rad bottom. The engine still has a bigass outlet to the top of the rad. The only thing you really lose is the pulley. Even with no power accessories or A/C, or fan, you still have to have a pulley for the alternator, though, so net change is small to inconsequential.

Go mechanical and put the saved money into a set of dual SPALs.

 

I knewyou were going to say that...... crap So, do you think that 55GPM is to much. There are two basic choices 35 or 55.

Have you see this type of set up??...to me it looks 10 times better. An elec pump itself is much easier on the eyes, no pully, no fan, and no ugly huge fan shroud to be bother with.

 

 

i don't think 55 gpm is too much. i doubt that too much flow would be possible with a motor driven water pump. i may be a little behind the curve on this one, but if you went with a good mechanical water pump like this one:
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tec...ech_Tips_7.htm
you should be fine. i'm sure there are many other brands other's are loyal to that will perform equally well. looking at the graph in that link, the stage 1 pump (i think i went with a stage 2 or 3) has to turn 2500 rpm to deliver 55 gpm; they even describe the test set up.
but 62C1 and many others i'm sure have done what you are considering; i hear it is the new "hot" set up. C3's are hard enough to cool anyway, seems like you'd need about the best motor driven pump out there to get the job done as well as a mechanical pump. all this assumes you will have an AL radiator and dual spals of course! .02

 

The 55GPM I mentioned is an elec and a few folks said that you do not want too much flow as the radiator may not have the chance to cool the water down before re-entering the engine.

The elec 55 GPM version is the best out there that I know of. I do have a double core Griffin AL radiator and hoping the elec pump and dual spals will be enough in the TX heat in stop and go traffic. I only drive 2000-3000 miles per year as it is.

Your 2 cents and everyone else's is worth every penny

 

What I mean by cleaning up the engine compartment is that with the dual Spal fans you can remove the stock shroud. This opens up the front a lot. Also removing the fan assembly frees up a bunch of space. Yes you still have to run belts for the alternator and PS pump but those never took up much front space anyway. It makes the whole front look much cleaner. I also run a camber brace which was a bear to deal with having the shroud on. As for the hoses, the inlet/outlet are stock. But it's a whole lot easier getting to the bottom radiator hose than before. Another side benefit of the electric pump is you can use the pump to do a complegte radiator/block flush when it comes time to change the coolant. Running an electric on my C4 pretty well convinced me that this was the way to go. The types of events I normally run call for intense periods of sustained high RPM driving followed by immediate parking with no significant cool down period. The ability to circulate the coolant while running the fans with the engine off is one of the unique benefits of an electric. You can't do that with a mechanical.

 

I've run the car on 90 degree days and so far haven't had an overheating issue. The pump puts out the same flow as the one in my C4 and I've run it in Texas heat for 3 years with no problems. Someone mentioned earlier that you can go to the nearest parts store and pick up a mechanical pump if it fails while parts stores don't stock electrics. Two thoughts on that. You can have a spare electric or if the electric fails put a mechanical back on until you can get another electric. Either way you are going to have to replace it just like you would with a mechanical. With proper airflow and a good aluminum radiator an electric pump is just as efficient as a mechanical one. For a SBC I think a 37 GPM is morew than adequate. If I were running a BB then I would seriously consider the 55 GPM. I'll try to get some pics of my setup and e-mail them to you this weekend.

 

Paul thanks so much for your assistance you have me

I agree with not worring about parts going bad as I usually never buy anything from a parts store. If it goes bad I will buy another one.