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Hi. I need a picture or good illustration of how the trailing arm shims are installed.I have about 6 pictures from parts catalogues but no help.I understand the slotted part of the shims go around the bolt,thats makes sense,but if I do that the hole in the frame that the cotter pin goes through is no where near the hole in the shim.If have checked the new shims with the old ,hole spacing is the same.What am I missing?.
This is holding up the work.Can someone please post some close up shots or supply a GOOD illustration of this installation.
Thanks for any help guys.
From: Ville de la Baie Quebec. A winner is just a loser who tried again.
I don't have a pic but if you push the shim all untill it bottoms out on the bolt ,,yes it will not line up to the cotter pin holes. Just push them in and down and back up until they are against the frame. They should line up just fine.
Make sure to clean out the pocket in the frame (lower lip). After finally tearing out the TA's on my 76, I had to dig out the area because of debris...then everything fit easily.
Is the pin supposed to go through the frame and arm?.If I put the shim in and drop it down 90 degrees and up on the bolt there is no cotter pin hole near there.I know this all sounds so stupid.
It doesn't make any sense! When the shim is installed is hole too far up, too far down, etc in relationship to the frame hole/cotter pin? It's been a year or so since I did this, but I believe the hole in the shim is quite large (3/8" to 1/2"). This part is not a precise fit. The cotter pin is there in case something weird would happen keeping the shims from falling out.
It seems like the slot in the shim is not millrout deep enough but they are dimensionally the same as the oe shims.I could always drill new holes in the frame but shouldnt have to.Hole is too far up.
It seems like the slot in the shim is not millrout deep enough but they are dimensionally the same as the oe shims.I could always drill new holes in the frame but shouldnt have to.Hole is too far up.
Are you saying that when you have the shim installed the hole in the frame is to far up for the cotter pin. Or in other words, when the shim is installed the hole in the shim is too low in relationship to hole in the frame.
You said the new shims and old shims are essentially they same. Instead of packing the pocket full of shims, how about just putting one shim in and see how it lines up.
Yes too far up. I have been using only one shim to test fit.Bolt is installed,slotted end of shim bottomed out on bolt,hold pressure on shim,rotate shim in arc to try to find cotter hole match,no dice.Even if i slide shim in and out while on bolt it will not locate anywhere for cotter alignment.I quit drinking in June so it's not that.It's been 2 years since disassembly so I no longer have a mental image.Thanks so far.
Yes too far up. I have been using only one shim to test fit.Bolt is installed,slotted end of shim bottomed out on bolt,hold pressure on shim,rotate shim in arc to try to find cotter hole match,no dice.Even if i slide shim in and out while on bolt it will not locate anywhere for cotter alignment.I quit drinking in June so it's not that.It's been 2 years since disassembly so I no longer have a mental image.Thanks so far.
I finally realized the problem:
I quit drinking in June
I assume this is the smae on both sides. Also assume that the original shim(s) don't match up either. I'm stumped!
Problem solved,i think.After looking at the original shims,there is no slot in them,just two holes.One hole the trailing arm bolt went through,you can see the impression,the bolt obviously held the shims in place so no cotter pin or holes for it were used.My 75 had a cotter pin and this 69 did not use them explains no hole for cotter pin.Cotter pin not needed if shims have a bolt to hold them. This is my theory so I'll have to drill holes in frame to use slotted shims a whole lot easier than removing the bolt to add shims like the factory had this set up.Thanks again for pondering this with me.I hope i'm right.