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I am in the process of rebuilding the rear suspension in my '77. So far it has been pretty trouble free thanks to my little friend Kroil. LOL
I have the parts to replace the leaf spring, shocks, and strut rods. I have been reading a lot of places that it is recomended to replace the trailing arms also. Unfortunately my budget is not what it should be. So my question is, should I put the new parts on I have and go after trailing arms later or try and convince my wife I need to do them now? How do I check and see if the trailing arms need work and should be replaced? Also I have a lead on some used trailing arms, how do I check the condition of them before I buy them.
By the way most of my doubts about my trailing armsa have come from the darn search function, it has filled me with quite a bit of doubt.
If you don't want have to crall under it again for a long time
do it all. The front bushings if bad will cause a lot of toe problems
and make your car very ill handing.
You don't have to replace your trailing arms unless they are rusted and are not capable of being rebuilt. Most of us have pulled our trailing arms and sent them to a vendor like Van Steele and had them rebuilt. You get them back looking new and all the worn parts replaced, new bearings that are packed with the proper grease, new emergency brake pads etc. It is still not cheap but it is something that you should seriously consider while they are so easy to get to. Check them for rusting thru, and are the bearings roaring when you drive it? These are signs that need immediate attention. Otherwise, if you have to, you could wait until later.
Bernie
Thanks for the tips. The only noise I hear from the rear end is a clunking type noise when I am backing up i.e. in reverse. The whole reason I am working on the suspension is that my tires lean in quite a bit at the top. If you are viewing the car from the rear at ground level the tires sit very similar to this /---\ obviously this caused the tires to wear inside very badly. I figured new spring bushings and strut rods would fix this, or at least I was told it would.
As far as my trailing arms go I don't think I hear worn bearings and the trailing arms are not rusted through anywhere, there is some surface rust. I have nopt checked the trailing arm bushings though. I will do that first thing in the morning.
I have the parts to replace the leaf spring, shocks, and strut rods. I have been reading a lot of places that it is recomended to replace the trailing arms also. Unfortunately my budget is not what it should be. So my question is, should I put the new parts on I have and go after trailing arms later or try and convince my wife I need to do them now?
It's no big deal to remove the items you are now putting on if you have to rebuild trailing arms at a later date. Spring and strut rods will be breeze to remove now that you have the knowledge and the fact they will not be all rusty. If money is tight and the arrms, bushings, and bearings are good, then wait awhile. No sense getting the wife involved if you don't have to.
If your tires lean in at the top thats strut rod bushings, they need replacing, the clunking is likely u-joints on the half shafts. Recomendations in here would likely be do a complete suspension rebuild, bushings all around. Good Money well spent
The whole reason I am working on the suspension is that my tires lean in quite a bit at the top. If you are viewing the car from the rear at ground level the tires sit very similar to this /---\ . I figured new spring bushings and strut rods would fix this, or at least I was told it would.
Hopefully it's just your strut rod bushings or camber setting but I would take a close look at the side yokes on the differential. Mushrooming and wear there will also bring the top of the tires in.
If your tires are leaning in your strut rod bushings are probably worn. Although it can't be seen there can be so much wear you can actually see daylight between the bushing and the rod they are attached to. They can be a pain to replace if the shcok is frozen to the strut rod/shock bracket. If the shocks remove easily it won't be bad. When you remove the shock mount do not try to turn it in its housing; it has a flat side and will ruin things if you twist it. You could put the rear end on jack stands and see if you can remove the lean by adjusting the camber device on the differential end of the strut. But to take the slop out of that area the bushings need to be replaced. The clunk you are hearing when you go from forward to reverse is probably the front differential support bushings. Ther are two donut like rubber bushings that allow the support to klunk when you change direction if they are worn. Hope this helps a little.
Bernie
You don't have to replace your trailing arms unless they are rusted and are not capable of being rebuilt. Most of us have pulled our trailing arms and sent them to a vendor like Van Steele and had them rebuilt. You get them back looking new and all the worn parts replaced, new bearings that are packed with the proper grease, new emergency brake pads etc. It is still not cheap but it is something that you should seriously consider while they are so easy to get to. Check them for rusting thru, and are the bearings roaring when you drive it? These are signs that need immediate attention. Otherwise, if you have to, you could wait until later.
Bernie
Lift the rear up and put it on jack stands... then At the wheel, a quick check I use is to grab the wheel top end bottom, do a "push pull" top to bottom. It's ok to feel just a bit of movement, too much and it's either set up wrong, or worn. You don't want to replace rear wheel bearings 200 miles from home. When they go... they can go quick...
Replaced mine (rebuilt) for $389 each, trailing arms, bearing assy, with new U.S.Made rotors, stainless emerg kit. Ready to bolt in.