Plugs are black..???
Found oil leak to be both valve covers loose.....easy fix there.
In looking around under the car, happened to grab the #8 plug wire and found that I could turn #8 plug with fingers.......not good. Removed #8 plug and found it black with carbon. Did a compression check and got 135 psi. Went to #6 plug and it was only sightly tight...removed plug to find same carbon build-up. Did compression check and got about 130 psi.
Ended up removing all plugs and found them all to be black with carbon and all not as tight as I think they should have been.l
Now I know my engine is running rich....but come on now...????....it still runs....do get alot of black smoke on start-up, but it goes away very quicly.
Timing is at about 10-12 BTDC at idle with computer unplugged....get full 36 advance all in by 2500 rpm.....
Cleaned all plugs and installed a new Bosch O2 sensor as I could not get a GM one locally. Have not started car yet.
I rebuilt the carb and have rechecked the float level and solenoid travel several times. Only odd thing is that turing the idle air bleed valve is not very sensitive as the Service Manual says it is and even the idle mixture screws have little effect.
How can I tell if the jet seats are leaking? Would I be able to see fuel on the butterflys with the engine off?
I have all emissoins equipment off or plugged at this time.
Any hnts as to where I should start checking?
Should I just get a rebuilt carb and go from there?
No error codes.
Thanks for any hints in advance that anyone can offer.
LannyL81
UPDATE:
Drove car and of course it was running very nicely....gee...it should with all that carbon removed from the plugs and all the cylinders actually sealing....
Got home and then hooked-up the dwell meter to set the idle air bleed valve once again. Turned the idle mixture screws in and out to the recommended setting of 3 1/3 turns and then started adjusting the idle air bleed valve.....and what do I find??? The setting is very, very sensitive...just like it is supposed to be according to the Service Manual!!!!...very small adjustements to get the dwell at 30....very touchy...
I thought I had changed the O2 sensor, but turned out not. Looks like this may be the solution. Going to drive it for couple of tanks of fuel and then pull the plugs and see what they look like.
Last edited by LannyL81; May 8, 2006 at 11:00 AM.
In the mean time, want a lot of opinions? Trash the 'puter, smog, cat, and make some mod's!!
LannyL81
If I do have a leak around the throttle shaft of the carb, it must be small as I cannot hear or feel anything. I slowly covered the airhorn with a shop rag and the engine began to stumble, which pretty much eliminated any leaks of the throttle shaft.
Its running really good right now, so I may have fixed my problem. Have to keep driving it and then check the plugs after two tank fulls.
LannyL81
One thing I learned for sure: SBC aftermarket parts do not necessarily fit with all SBC aftermarket parts...just because it fits on the block, does not mean that the next aftermaket part is going to fit due to the previous aftermarket part.
Oh and SBC engine bolt kits are worthless....most of the bolts are to short.
LannyL81
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
The throttle shaft bushing installation is simple (just remember that there are 2 screws that are hard to spot when taking the carb apart!). There's a place that sells kits that include 2 reamers (but I don't know who it is). One is used to open out the holes in the carb so that the bushes can be pressed in & the other is for running through the bushes once they're fitted (I didn't need to do this as the shaft was a real nice fit). A forum member sent me some bushes & I bought the reamer here. It may be worth buying the complete kit (not doing what I did & just getting the bushes thinking that picking up a reamer locally would be the best idea) as the reamer is a 32nd or 64th size & is MUCH more expensive than more common ones. The reamer alone cost me more than an entire kit!
I was able to tell mine was worn by the fact that idle would be at different speeds after letting off the throttle. It was only over a range of about 100rpm, but with my idle set at 600rpm it would sometimes idle at 700rpm, others at 650, etc. Blipping the throttle would change the idle speed, pointing to the butterflies not seating/closing correctly & letting in some air. There's other symptoms & tests for it, but that's how I found mine.
Have you still got the charcoal cannister fitted? I found both valves on mine had air leaks that the computer hadn't detected (not enough air getting past them in closed loop to be of any consequence) & I wasn't aware of any problem. I only found them while fiddling with the cannister when it was off the car & after fixing the leaks the idle is much more regular (not that there was anything wrong with it to start with). It's these fiddly little stupid problems that all add up to make an engine run below what it should.
Good luck with checking the plugs next time.










