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Battery Dead? again...

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Old May 10, 2006 | 05:23 PM
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Default Battery Dead? again...

I know that these cars are known for having dead batteries, but I was wondering if someone knows why and if it is fixable? I had my battery die yesterday and charged it and today it is dead again and I am charging it again, I will check the alternator but I am pretty sure that is not the cause. Could there be some thing wrong with the cars wiring, and if so what cause I am no electrician.

How can I find out what is draining the battery?????

What tool do I need to find out where this drain is coming from, and then tell me how to use the tool :o Thanks alot

I dont like going out to my car to find out I cant drive it and have to charge it for a couple hours I really would like the battery to be more dependable especially if I am going to be going cross country!!
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Old May 10, 2006 | 05:28 PM
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I had a similar situation recently and the problem turned out to be that I was missing the engine block to chassis ground cable. On my car it is supposed to connect from the starter support bracket bolt on the block to the chassis mount (where the motor mount bolts to the chassis).
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Old May 10, 2006 | 05:31 PM
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my situation was a bad Starter solenoid draining the power and having intermittent starts.

Jim
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Old May 10, 2006 | 05:36 PM
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there is an interior light timer behind the pass side dash that shorts out sometimes giving you a drain. Get a good Multimeter, (I recommend a Fluke) It needs to have ammeter cabilities. Disconnect the pos side of the battery and put the meter between the batt cble anf the pos batt post and see what kind of current draw you have. This is of course done with the engine and all accessories off. Tape down the door light switch. The draw should be under 200ma. If it is more than that there is something either turned on or shorted somewhere. From there you have to start pulling fuses and disconnecting things to determine where the problem is.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 06:26 PM
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Yes, Fluke makes some of the best multimeters out there, but check out Sears for a cheaper unit. I picked up a Craftsman full featured multi for around $25. Hard to beat that price compared to Fluke$

If you're not comfortable looking at wiring schematics and handling a set of multimeter probes, this might grow into a nightmare for you.

And since when are Corvettes known for eating batteries? : P Dare I invoke the name of Bubb... nah, I won't go there.

This has the potential to be an ongoing issue for you... if you've gone through the charging system and come up with nothing, that's what most people refer to as an "electrical demon". I fought mine for a good three years, even after installing a new wiring harness.

in other words... good luck, mang
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Old May 10, 2006 | 08:46 PM
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Once you find the short and fix it, the problem might not be over. I believe the lead plates (six for a twelve volt battery) are spongy. When they are deep cycled, or drained beyond something like 25% charge then these plates can bend considerably. When one bends into the other you can get a short inside the battery. Then the battery is toast and will not be able to put out the correct voltage.

I think recharging can sometimes break apart the short but usually does not. Deep cycled batteries that were not designed for it usally cannot hold a charge. You might have to buy a new one after you fix your problem. Hopefully not.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 10:30 PM
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Find short. Fix short. Install Optima battery.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 10:57 PM
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easy fix that will eliminate the problem is a install a disconnect on the battery cable...not really fixed,but it is,so i don't think it can be classified as bu...bu..bub,naw ,i won't go there either..mike
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Old May 10, 2006 | 10:59 PM
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I am having the same problem and the bit about the battery I believe to be true. I am on my 3rd battery. When I got my car the previous owner had taken the bulbs out of the sockets uder the dash by the foot area. I replaced the bulbs and I am wondering if that is not my problem now. I did find a screw into my main wire from battery to the starter but obviously that was not the problem. Good luck Brent
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Old May 11, 2006 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Find short. Fix short. Install Optima battery.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CO1969SHARK
I know that these cars are known for having dead batteries, but I was wondering if someone knows why and if it is fixable? I had my battery die yesterday and charged it and today it is dead again and I am charging it again, I will check the alternator but I am pretty sure that is not the cause. Could there be some thing wrong with the cars wiring, and if so what cause I am no electrician.

How can I find out what is draining the battery?????

What tool do I need to find out where this drain is coming from, and then tell me how to use the tool :o Thanks alot

I dont like going out to my car to find out I cant drive it and have to charge it for a couple hours I really would like the battery to be more dependable especially if I am going to be going cross country!!

How old is the starter? I tolerated marginal starting/cranking for years. Replaced alternator/battery thinking it was draining (it was). But, the biggest difference was a rebuilt starter. It turns faster and the car doesn't seem to drain the battery as quickly anymore... just my shadetree mechanic experience.

I should further qualify that when I reached the point of replacing the starter, it didn't matter whether I charged the battery or not, the starter was NOT going to turn. I always had marginal cranking performance. Now, the engine spins over very quickly and I don't have to pump the accelerator either, it spins so fast that the pump is priming the fuel line and pushing fuel into the carb and it fires right over on its own. Oh, and it has been able to sit for three weeks and no dead battery... before, my battery would be near death-like behavior in about a week.

Last edited by TedH; May 12, 2006 at 05:17 PM.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 05:19 PM
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I have a 69, there needs to be a ground directly from the battery to the frame and another ground strap from the block where the starter is bolted (back bracket of the starter) to the fram rail. Be sure the frame and the wire are a good connection, also use a heavy gauge wire.
After that i would get a new battery. This is my set up and I never have an issue with dead batteries.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by TedH
How old is the starter? I tolerated marginal starting/cranking for years. Replaced alternator/battery thinking it was draining (it was). But, the biggest difference was a rebuilt starter. It turns faster and the car doesn't seem to drain the battery as quickly anymore... just my shadetree mechanic experience.
Drop in a BB502 starter.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 10:58 AM
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This problem crops up often here....same old answers:
Get a new battery
still happens? put an ammeter across from the post to the cable, if you have significant amp draw, pull one fuse at a time until you find the fuse group causing the draw, determine what devices are on that fuse and check each device for a closed circuit constantly, repair or replace the device.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 04:39 PM
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Had a 72 Monte Carlo that kept sucking my battery dead.It was the ingnition switch if this helps.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 05:45 PM
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wrc69v,that is a very nice looking 69 you got there....
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Old May 12, 2006 | 06:08 PM
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good thread- ive been having this problem as well
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To Battery Dead? again...

Old May 12, 2006 | 10:30 PM
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so i did the meter test as described in this thread. It initially was reading 275 ma- which i guess is why the car is dead if i don't run it for a week. I found the antitheft fuse was what was causing the problem- when i disconnect the antitheft relay it drops down to 70 ma. So how do i test the relay to see if the relay itself is shorting out or if it is somewhere in the system- not necessarily the relay?
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Old May 12, 2006 | 10:52 PM
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I had a simmilar situation. Troubleshooting was interesting. I did the following, after obtain a color wiring diagram and the help of my brother:

1. Check battery and + and - cables.
2. Check alternator connections and wiring. I had bad connections.
3. Check if alternator is ok. Sometimes diodes and/or internal coil have damages. I replaced diodes because they were bad.
4. Check if you have drains. Sometimes a bare wire have contact with metal and discharges the battery. I had some wires that loose their plastic cover and had bare contact with metal.
5. Check if the radio connections were installed adequately
6. Check grounds, power windows and other electrical components.
7. Check wiring or harnesses in accordance to wiring diagram.
8. Check fuses

Search for other Technical Threads related to this topic.

Use a meter that read volts, amps and ohms.

Hint: Harnesses for C3 have a normal life of 10 years.

Good luck!

Last edited by c3dreamer; May 12, 2006 at 11:05 PM.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 11:17 PM
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I had a problem with flat battery. After checking the usual things turned out it was a bad earth wire between the starter and chassis. She used to turn over slow and initially thought it was the battery or the alternator not charging the battery, but turned out just to be that wire.
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