When I start my vehicle, It idles horribly as it if it is not getting enough feul.

I changed my cylinder heads (to Edelbrock RPM 64cc heads) I also have an Edelbrock 650cfm carb. The vehicle ran fine before I changed my heads. Now when you start it sputters and chugs as if it is getting no feul.

Prior to installing my heads, the feul line from the carb to the pump was part metal and part rubber hose. This set up worked fine until I changed my heads I want to have a hard line.

I made a hard feul line according to Lars instructions, but the problem still exists.

I purchased a new feul pump (the correct pump for a 79) along with a brass 90 degree elbow. The 90 degree does not screw in all the way into the feul pump and it leaks. I found out that the opening on the feul pump is 5/16 in diameter and the threads are not pipe thread (which explains why it leaks and does not screw all the way into the feul pump). Te female end of the elbow and the 3/8 inverted flare fitting fit with the line and did not leak. The elbow I had on the first set up had pipe thread and it did not screw into the feul pump completely it leaked until I wrenched it as far as it could go. But I found out today that fitting was also incorrect because it was pipe thread. I want to install the correct elbow
with the set up I have now.

Where can I find a 90 degree elbow with a 5/16 male end and a 3/8 female end so I can hook up my feul pump with a hard line?

Could the line I made be the cause of my not getting enough feul?

I cannot set the timing on the vehicle because the damn thing is not getting enough feul to keep it running. Can someone......anyone help?
I am truly pissed that I cannot get the damn thing running

 

Does anybody know of anything?????

 

For the fittings I would try either swagelok or McMaster Carr, they have a very large selection of fittings.

http://www.swagelok.com/

http://www.mcmastercarr.com

You've probably checked this, but could it be a clogged fuel filter? Could you replace the hard line with a rubber fuel line temporarily just to get the engined timed and see if you get enough fuel, that would let you know if it is the hard line causing the problems.

Also, how bad was the leak? Could that have prevented enough fuel getting to the carb?

 

Do you have a vacuum leak?

 

Now lets see. You say you changed the heads. Now, most folks that do this job, remove the carburetor, distributer and intake manifold to get to the heads. The job can be done without removing this stuff but most want to clean and paint "while they're at it".

The first question is, are you sure you got the distributer back in correctly?

Any time you remove the carburetor or intake manifold there is always the chance for vacuum leaks. Did you check for vacuum leaks, including an internal leak under the manifold?

Vacuum leaks will make for a lean mixture, especially at idle. The engine feels like it is not getting enough fuel.

BigBlockk

Later.....

 

Sounds to me like you have the distributor off a bit. 1st thing to do is put the motor at TDC, pull the cap and make sure the rotor is pointing directly at #1 plug wire. Even having it 1 tooth off can cause problems. Have you done this?
Good luck.

 

I know it is important to not have a vacuum leak, but I've never really had a good idea of the process involved in locating one. Then I see this:

Now I'm really curious. In addition to finding external leaks, how you would check for one of these internal under the manifold leaks. I've just installed my newly rebuilt 383 and would love to check every possible location for leaks, but not sure how that would be done. Any input might help us all....Thanks

 

The easiest way i know of is to use a peice of heater hose about 2 feet long, stick one end to you ear and move the other end around the engine compartment. Listen for a hissing sound.
You can also pick up a vacuum guage at a discount tool store very cheap.
Did you check the distributor position yet?

 

Any decent auto parts store or speed shop have brass fitting assortments, and I would think would have the fitting you are looking for.

One lesson I learned a while ago was any time a new carb or fuel pump or fuel line is installed, the fuel line should be flushed out by sticking the carb end into a coffee can and spinning the engine a bit to flush out any odd bits of crud. Odd bits of crud have a nastly habit of finding the critical passage in carbs and blocking off the fuel / air signal flow inside tha carb.

As far as a vaccum leak, a easy way to find the external leaks ( those on the outside of the engine) is to use a spray bottle of water around the intake manifold / head interface. If the engine momemtarily slows down when this is done, a leak is suspected. Internal manifold vac leaks usually, but not always, tend to suck in engine oil from the lifter gallery, and will discolor / foul the affected cyclinder(s) plug(s).

The previous posts about rechecking the distributor timing are always a great idea!


Good Luck & Good hunting!

BB NJ Ken

P.S. Beer always helps!