Knocking out lower shock mounts?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,606
Likes: 5
Knocking out lower shock mounts?
I'm contemplating knocking out my lower shock mounts in order to replace the rear struts. How much do I have to disassemble in order to do this? I plan on re-building the entire rear-end next year, but I need to get the wheels going straight up/down now.
It appears the rear spring/bolts are in the way of swinging a sledge.
Any tips are appreciated.
It appears the rear spring/bolts are in the way of swinging a sledge.
Any tips are appreciated.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: San Bernardino California
dont know if this is the proper way of doing .. but i just cleaned the threads and used penetration lube... then used a tie rod fork .. came out pretty easy... but i am sure there is a better way 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
How much adjustment is remaining?
The camber is adjusted by the bolts on the opposite end of the strut rod, the end under the differential. If you can hold off until you're ready to do the whole backend by adjusting the current bolts, I think I woild try that first. In my opinion, I would do the rear as one complete project. The shock mounts on mine came out with a few good wacks with a hand sledge. Be careful of the threads.
The camber is adjusted by the bolts on the opposite end of the strut rod, the end under the differential. If you can hold off until you're ready to do the whole backend by adjusting the current bolts, I think I woild try that first. In my opinion, I would do the rear as one complete project. The shock mounts on mine came out with a few good wacks with a hand sledge. Be careful of the threads.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,606
Likes: 5
Originally Posted by mandm1200
How much adjustment is remaining?
The camber is adjusted by the bolts on the opposite end of the strut rod, the end under the differential. If you can hold off until you're ready to do the whole backend by adjusting the current bolts, I think I woild try that first. In my opinion, I would do the rear as one complete project. The shock mounts on mine came out with a few good wacks with a hand sledge. Be careful of the threads.
The camber is adjusted by the bolts on the opposite end of the strut rod, the end under the differential. If you can hold off until you're ready to do the whole backend by adjusting the current bolts, I think I woild try that first. In my opinion, I would do the rear as one complete project. The shock mounts on mine came out with a few good wacks with a hand sledge. Be careful of the threads.
A few whacks with a hand sledge...did you have to remove the spring bolts? My spring bolts are in the way of the hammer arc.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 379
Likes: 0
From: Thief River Falls Minnesota
We took the spring bolts and spring off, and then went after it with a 10 lb sledge, this was after 2 weeks of soaking them in penetrant. Oh yes, we had to take the torch to them and heat them a bit to get them loose also.
Hope yours aren't in the same shape, It's not a difficult job, but it can take a bit of time.
If you can just take the adjustment apart and clean that part up, that's the way to go, especially if your rubber bushings on the strut rods look good. Ours were crap, and we were going to have to replace them anyway, so we just took the whole thing off at once.
76custompaint
Hope yours aren't in the same shape, It's not a difficult job, but it can take a bit of time.
If you can just take the adjustment apart and clean that part up, that's the way to go, especially if your rubber bushings on the strut rods look good. Ours were crap, and we were going to have to replace them anyway, so we just took the whole thing off at once.
76custompaint
Just another Corvette guy
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,518
Likes: 3,865
From: Palm Springs, CA.
Easiest way, because of the limited room, is with an air chisel, if you have one or access to one, fitted with the hammer bit. Soak 10 minutes with some PB Blaster to penetrate the rust and a couple hits with the air chisel they should pop right out. You won't bash the threads (or your knuckles) this way either like you would swinging a hammer. Hold a piece of flat brass or a brass drift against the threaded end or, lacking that, spin the nut on but stop about an eighth of an inch before the stud is exposed and air hammer the nut. It will crack loose very easily.
Greg
Greg
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
You may be lucky and these shock mounts come out after soaking with penetratng oil and a few whacks with a hammer... be careful, get a few nuts that fit the shock mount threads to protect the threads while you beat on them... at $50 each you want to try to safe the shock mounts 
There is a "inner sleeve" that is often rusted to the shock mount, preventing it from moving axially towards the front. The problem is that you cannot get the PB blaster (or other penetrating oil) to where it's needed, between the shock mount and inner sleeve.
I used a Dremel and cut the strut rod, then burnt the rubber bushing with a small Home Depot torch... can you say 'McGyver' ???.... then I cut carefully into the inner sleeve and injected PB blaster.
I ended up saving one of the two shock mounts, the first one I tried to get out was destroyed when I used the hammer.
Here are some photos:
.
There is a "inner sleeve" that is often rusted to the shock mount, preventing it from moving axially towards the front. The problem is that you cannot get the PB blaster (or other penetrating oil) to where it's needed, between the shock mount and inner sleeve.
I used a Dremel and cut the strut rod, then burnt the rubber bushing with a small Home Depot torch... can you say 'McGyver' ???.... then I cut carefully into the inner sleeve and injected PB blaster.
I ended up saving one of the two shock mounts, the first one I tried to get out was destroyed when I used the hammer.
Here are some photos:
.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,248
Likes: 48
From: westland mi
when reinstalling clean em up w/some sandpaper and then apply some antisieze so they'll come apart easy in case u ever have to remove them in the future. mine took 2 hammer hits to pop since i redid em 14 yrs ago
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 8
From: Hamilton NJ
Tony...this worked miracles for me...out in minutes with no damage. Be sure not to twist the shockmount or you may hack up the knurl that helps keep it tight...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...tool+shock+cap
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...tool+shock+cap
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 215
Likes: 1
From: Belton Missouri
Tony, you can also buy the removal tool from the mail order stores. On my 74, I ruined one, saved the other. Check ebay I bought a couple for $15 as spares for my next disassembly. Also, if you are not worried about origional, get the adjustable rods, about $100, they hold really well.
Audie
Audie
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 10,866
Likes: 717
From: Beverly Hills/Pine Ridge Florida
They can be tough to get out. Make sure you double or triple nut the ends before you "whack" them. If you don't you'll mushroom the threads, and won't be able to get a nut back on them, IF you get them out.
You can also get a piece of pipe, about 1 foot long. Put the pipe over the shock mount threads, and wiggle up and down. That'll loosen them somewhat.
Some come out easy, some are terrible. You might destroy them, and need to buy new ones. You can also heat the "ears" with an oxyacetylene torch. Heat them "cherry red". A propane torch won't cut it. Good luck. It can be an awful job. Chuck
You can also get a piece of pipe, about 1 foot long. Put the pipe over the shock mount threads, and wiggle up and down. That'll loosen them somewhat.
Some come out easy, some are terrible. You might destroy them, and need to buy new ones. You can also heat the "ears" with an oxyacetylene torch. Heat them "cherry red". A propane torch won't cut it. Good luck. It can be an awful job. Chuck
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Yea it's an awful job alright, after beating on mine for 1/2 hour with a 10lb sledge last fall I gave up, started to get worried about what all that hammering was doing to the bolt on the front of the trailing arm. Still haven't changed the strut rods 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
I didn't know what 'PB Blaster' was when I did mine, so I used Liquid Wrench instead. I threaded a couple big nuts onto the end of the mount, pulled out the rear spring, and commenced bashing mightily with my mighty 5-lb. sledge. Just as my might began to wane and I thought about quitting, I noticed a sliver of daylight between the shoulder of the shock mount and the upright. With renewed might I continued bashing with great vigor until it was out. Did same thing to other side with no damage. Use the nuts on the threads (unless you wanna pay $$$ for the anti-destruction tool); if you bash directly on the end of the threads with even a brass hammer you run the risk of damaging the threads.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Harrisburg PA
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I used a pulley removal tool and a lot of patience to line it up. Once I got the tool lined up I would give it about a quater of a turn and then smack it lightly with a hammer. It took about an hour but the shock mount finally came out.
It worked for me
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[/IMG]I used a pulley removal tool and a lot of patience to line it up. Once I got the tool lined up I would give it about a quater of a turn and then smack it lightly with a hammer. It took about an hour but the shock mount finally came out.
It worked for me
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Last edited by Tracker; Jun 3, 2006 at 06:48 PM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by birdsmith
I didn't know what 'PB Blaster' was when I did mine, so I used Liquid Wrench instead. I threaded a couple big nuts onto the end of the mount, pulled out the rear spring, and commenced bashing mightily with my mighty 5-lb. sledge. Just as my might began to wane and I thought about quitting, I noticed a sliver of daylight between the shoulder of the shock mount and the upright. With renewed might I continued bashing with great vigor until it was out. Did same thing to other side with no damage. Use the nuts on the threads (unless you wanna pay $$$ for the anti-destruction tool); if you bash directly on the end of the threads with even a brass hammer you run the risk of damaging the threads.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Originally Posted by TonySinclair
I'm contemplating knocking out my lower shock mounts in order to replace the rear struts. How much do I have to disassemble in order to do this? I plan on re-building the entire rear-end next year, but I need to get the wheels going straight up/down now.
It appears the rear spring/bolts are in the way of swinging a sledge.
Any tips are appreciated.
It appears the rear spring/bolts are in the way of swinging a sledge.
Any tips are appreciated.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
Tony, below is a link to a thread started a few days ago. The method I used is posted, but I liked the two jaw puller method, if you can get it to work. The fella who used it had very rusted parts, so I am a believer. Check it out!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1408184&page=2
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1408184&page=2