Does this make any sense for street use with a 383/tpi/5sp?

 

In a word no. But as they say others may or may not agree.

 

 

I'm interested in this subject too. I've been contemplating an aluminum flywheel for my 454 as I've heard from some it is the best hp gaining upgrade available as your rotating mass is lightened just like with an aluminum driveshaft and halfshafts giving you more hp to the wheels. Then some say you want a heavier flywheel b/c you need that heaver rotating mass at the engine and trans. I can't make up my mind...need some more convincing...

 

I have a GM issue nodular 16 pounder, aluminum driveshaft and no mechanical engine fan

 

In simple terms a light flywheel will let the Motor rev faster as well as declerate faster as well which works well in a road coarse situation. Also it will make it more touchy as far as starting from a dead stop because it will not have the built up energy as the heavier flywheel would have.

A heavy flywheel will let the engine idle better because of the rotating mass also will maintain an rpm easier. It is easier to leave from a light and general manor of the car is better. There is a reason why the manufacturers used the heavier flywheels.

I remember back a number of years when people would actually use 55 to 60 pound flywheels on Big Block drag cars.

But it all boils down to your driving style and what you are willing to live with and what you want YOUR car to do.

 

Someone asked this ? in one of the latest Vette Mags and their answer was that it is poor for street use but would work great as a road racer.

 

do you have a part number for that flywheel by any chance.

 

The 15 lb range flywheels are very noticable in how fast they rev up under no load. Hays makes a 30 lb and a 25 lb flywheel, see at Summit. I have the 30 lb and it works fine.

 

The reason they did not make aluminum flywheels when the C3's were made is not because the heavy steel ones were better. They didn't have the machining technology at that time to build billet aluminum. In addition, when has anybody seen GM use expensive parts when they can use cheap ones? Lightening the flywheel is a very good idea. The engine revs better and you remove about 15 pounds from the car as well. The steel flywheels are cheap junk and that is why they came that way and are still popular. If you want to keep a heavy flywheel, a billet steel one is far stronger than the stock one. Even a billet aluminum flywheel is substantially stronger than the heavy stock one.

 

I'm building this car for the street so billet steel is good enough for me.
Thanks guys!

 

Bismarck Yes they did have aluminum in the early 70's but they were very expensive. And the question was not if a stock flywheel is better than a billit steel or aluminum just weight and its effects on the engine and how the vehicle reacts. Everyone knows that a steel billet flywheel or aluminum is far better than stock. They also produced a few kinds of aluminum flywheels. One to make it lighter is they tried to use a kevlar shoe instead of steel but found its wear to not be very good and over the years have settled on a steel shoe. They also tried forms of ceramic as well. Also you can run a lighter steel flywheel but there is a point in which you will loose the capability of the flywheel to remain true under the force of a pressure plate. This is why they went to the smaller multi disc set ups as to not only increase the holding power but reduce mass and increase reliability. But no matter if it is stock or aftermarket I have to stress to use a blow proof bell housing for high performance use. Also if you really want to not only decrease the weight of the flywheel and its assembly then the best way is to use one of the smaller two or three clutch disc set ups. They have more holding power with less pressure as well as reduced mass.

I have run many configurations from a single disc to multi as well as a Turbo Clutch. Turbo Clutch is an old term of which to modify a Turbo 400 or Powerglide and use a clutch instead of a torque converter.

 

You can not go wrong with a good HAYS or Ram steel flywheel. .

 

On an internal balance engine, 350 or internally ballanced 383, would you not have to get the lighter flywheel rebalanced?

 

My mechanic is telling me that 'll be OK with an alum flywheel since my 383 has plenty of low end torque to accelerate from a stop. I other words, I don't need all the rotating mass of a steel flywheel that engines with lower torque need.

Is he right?

 

Yes,He is right! I ran a 327 365 hp, 30-30 cam, 17 lb flywheel and 3.70 gears with no driveabiltiy or launch problems. I did not even know it was there until I replaced it on a clutch change. Man did the engine seem to rev up slow after that flywheel was gone!

 

L88 flywheel is nodular iron and small at 153T ... weighs 15-16 # ... will bolt up to any 2-piece rear main seal crank sbc or BBC ... it is internal/neutral balance. Perfection Clutch/Zoom markets an asian clone of L88 fw ... available at local advance auto parts for about $65 new ... Perfection P/N 50-6516.

If it's replacing an internal/neutral balance fw on an internal/neutral balance motor ... fw nor motor does not need to be re-balanced.

 

Anyone have experiance with an aluminum flywheel on an externally balenced motor ie. 383 stroker ??

 

I respectfully disagree. I am a proponent of lite flywheels in the proper application. GM can make/source lite fw just as easily & cheaply as heavier fw. If lite fw were universal best choice, be assured GM/Ford/DC etc would ship every car/truck with lite fw ... this more true today with improved materials/processes. To paraphrase shaker&r ... best choice depends on what you want it to do.

 

Internal balanced - It doesn't require any balancing of the damper or flywheel

I bought a 22 pound lightweight billet steel and the lakewood blow proof bell housing.