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What do you guys use for your greaseable u joints? I have used the lithium grease, but wonder if moly isn't better? Only problem is, can I mix the two?
Thanks.
You may already know this, but I'll say it anyway; EVERY source I've ever asked has told me that non greasable u-joints are MUCH stronger. I've got the greasable type on my '79 and I'm going to replace them; hopefully sooner than later.
EVERY source I've ever asked has told me that non greasable u-joints are MUCH stronger.
This may be very true because I have got three original u-joints that are still working fine on my 69. However, I have replaced the one u-joint on the outer drivers side at least three times in the past 35 years. And yes, all of the replacements have been the type with a grease fitting. I think next I will also go without a grease fitting type u-joint.
I think it's a special kind of thick grease. Even my Mobil synthetic seems awful thin after it's been used a while. Hopefully someone knows exactly what the non-greasable joints use.
The grease in the non-greasuble U-joints I've installed seemed very similar to the lubricant that comes with poly bushings. Maybe some kind of silicone product?
Thanks for all the replies. For what it is worth in regards to the failure rate of greaseable u joints, my car is putting out 440 lb-ft of torque and 424 hp. I have yet to break one, plus, I have that crappy lithium grease in there! It has to do with compression stroke. If you put the zerck fitting behind the compression stroke (that which is doing the turning) you should be fine. I did this when putting on all my u joints (half shafts and drive shaft). I think I should go with the moly also, do you think it is okay to mix with the lithium grease? The lithium grease says it can mix with any and all types of grease.
Hey, you finally got everything going and back together. When did you get your engine dynoed?
Are the failures in grease zerks in the caps or the bodies of the u-joints? I've seen both. I would expect there is more failure from cap style u-joints.
As far as grease goes, when ever I did U-joints or wheel bearings at the parts store, we always used the mobil 1 grease, and never had a return due to grease failure (I worked there for 4 years). I've never heard of problems from mixing grease.
Ted, thanks for the reply.
I got it back together, but it needs paint bad, the front bumper has clear cracked in half, so it looks like a beater now. This fall it goes to get painted. I might start the stripping the old paint at the end of Aug.
I heard most of the failures in the form of cracks at the zerk fitting. But I am sure there are many different kinds of failures. Would be interesting to know. I will go with the Mobil.
Thanks again.
Hows life in the working world?
Working world...yeah I've pretty much decided I've got to go back and get a PhD. I've been jumping around from job to job because I don't have one. My wife is working on her master's now, and she finishes up in a couple of years. After that, we'll probably both go on.
Yeah, my car needs paint to. I've got the lovely chrome bumper problem of aluminum rivets that are giving up the fight in the front, along with an extreme case of pine pitch in my hood. Not to mention previous body work showing its age (right front bumper is particularly bad). However, I promised my wife we'd buy a house before I painted the vette (due to the price similarity between a house down payment and painting the car).
Good luck with all the bodywork. If I get down to chicago sometime I'll look you up.
HEY...Pete's back!!!
I've always had good luck with and hight recomendations from numerous sources for using Mobile 1 Synthetic. Lithium is just not stout enough for heavy driveline applications. Don't know about mixing em up though...
Sounds like your car is comming along great. Now if I can only get my 400 block back from the machine shop...I TOO can go cruising this summer.
Good Luck Pete...hope to see ya on the roads this summer.
Eddie