Anyone break one of these bad boys? I know my 68 half shafts are much smaller than the later years, when they break, where do they break? near the diff? near TA?
While upgrading my suspension I'd like to install both halfshaft and driveshaft loops.
I ask this question b/c the two below halfshaft safety loops are positioned differently. Pics were posted in another thread by Miechesa and Bryan Lewis.
The top two pics posted by Bryan shows the safety loop mounted to the differential cross member which concerns me b/c it will not move with the suspension movement therefore could contact the halfshaft itself. This also supports the halfshaft in the middle so if the break were to occur on either side the entire shaft would be supported (I like this).
The lower pic posted by Miechesa shows a dragvette safety loop which is mounted to the shock bolt, direct bolt on whereas the other must be welded or tapped & bolted. The dragvette safety loop will move with the suspension travel which is good but it only supports the halfshaft at the very end near the TA. My halfshaft is very tiny and I wonder if this loop will even catch my shaft if it were to break at the u-joint near the TA or if it were to break near the diff then this loop might not even contact the halfshaft b/c it is so close to the pivot point near the TA. Hoping to pick up newer year half shaft for a good deal at Carsile in August.
Sorry for all the type, but if I'm chosing a "safety" loop I want it to work.
Any thoughts?

 

ttt...I know Norval or TwinTurbo have some scientific explainations to the benefits of each setup depending on the moons positon to earth.
Any opinions here?

 

I've seen pics posted here on the forum where the half shafts were twisted in the middle. Haven't seen any pics of them torn in half.

Here's a

 

I ruined a half-shaft on my 66 L36. The ujoint and end of the shaft at the TA disentegrated. I havent seen them twist in the middle, but I have heard of it happening. Takes a lot of torque to do that

 

My 79 managed to twist one apart. I've also had the U-Joint come apart and destroy the pressed end of the half shaft. It took slicks and a 3800 stall over time to tear them up.

Without a doubt the best setup is mounted to the frame. Anything mounted to the trailing arm is unsprung weight. IMO central location to the shaft is the best idea. That way your limiting the length of the free ends that are flaying around. The longer piece is always caught in the cage.

 

Thanks Jughead for the bump.
GKull, I'd have to agree with you. The center location seems to offer the most coverage if either end comes loose.
Just hope it won't affect the range of suspension travel.
Thanks guys.
Still would like to see some pics of broken halfshafts and damage caused.

 

you're an evil evil man,,, j/k

 

-here's one for you len!!!! they look as thick as a beer can inside!!!!!!!!!!!!----------------
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wow! A lot of torque and sticky tires?

 

WOW...no beer inside? That sucks.
I'm sure my original 2.5" shafts on my 68 won't put up much more of a fight than that 3". Then again I'm not expecting torque equivalent to a big rig, just want to have it "in case".
Thanks for the pix.

 

wow Im not stepping on the peddle again!!!!!!!

 

come on!!!!! rev her up to 5 grand and dump the clutch!!

 

I had a buddy in college whose dad worked for GM in research. He had a new 72 with some prototype fuel injection on it. That sucker was the most impressive car I have ever been in. At least that's what I remember. That was 30 years ago now.

Two things I remember. 1) The guy had a huge scar on his leg from the side pipes. 2) He ripped the half shaft on the drivers side loose and it ripped a gaping hole right through his battery box.

I think he told me he had over 600 HP in that thing. That half shaft sure made a mess. Those loops would be cheap insurance in my opinion.

 

i put them on last winter,, they look nice painted ford red!

 

the twisted half shaft, looks like mother nature had a hand in that....the ravages of time is a beotch isn't it?

 

Come on Carl, FORD colors on that car just ain't right.

 

but that shade of red is sooo perty,next to the blue shocks and jet coating, its hot-----------------------------------------------

 

Forum member LotaHp (norm) has broken a few (or so he says). In addition to the loops, he found out a way to help prevent damage. He said he lowered his snubbers so that the car won't squat as far down. From what he explained to me, the big squat causes too much of a change in geometry and applies mega stress on the shafts. Going on another recent thread, some C3 racers are talking about how the lowered snubbers will also increase traction by preventing so much rear spring travel (what goes up must come down). If the car doesn't squat way down, then it doesn't rebound way up. It's the "on the way up" part that unweights the rear, allowing the tires to become less planted (is that a word/term?). I'm definitely going to lower my snubbers!!!!

 

I have two questions.

1)What are the different strength half shafts that one can buy.

2)Where can I buy the good ones

 

With out going overboard (billet or carbon fiber), you can just get the 3" ones that came in later c3's. I put in the spicer non-zerked joints and have just bought the billet caps. The stock caps put too muck pressure on the bearings right at the top of the cap and can elongate the bearing cap. The billet ones hug the bearing caps and exert a more equal force all around the bearing cap. Unless you are making crazy power running slicks or are launching at 5000 r.p.m. then these parts should be fine. I should be putting out around 550 hp an running mid 11's and I think that I should be fine with the above. As far as where to get the 3" hs's, eckler's, rik's, vb&p or even here on the forum. Ask around and I'm sure you can get a good used set for cheap! Have fun!!!