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I'm trying to remove the valve to replace it. Is it possible that the brake line connectors are metric and not SAE? The reason I ask is that I'm using SAE brake wrenches and the darn wrench gave way and rounded the connector nut. Any ideas here? If I rounded the nut, what advise do you have in removing it? This shouldn't be this hard and I'm a bit frustrated. Advice is appreciated.
they are probly not metric, but you should be using a Line wrench. Its like a box end wrench but has a slot cut in the end. Those brass fittings are soft and tend to bind and be hard to get off after 15 or 20 years. If its rounded you may have to get it lose with vice grips or something and then cut and reflair the line with a new nut.
I replaced my p/valve and a couple lines stripped as well. I ended up cutting the brake lines and pulling it out. It wasn't a problem because I was going with SS lines for replacement.
Try throwing a little heat to each fitting and use vise grips if they stripped. It worked for mine once I pulled it out. You may then want to think about replacing the fitting and re-flaring the line or... just go w/SS lines.
Ok, if I cut them off at the valve, which I believe may have to be done. However, I am going to buy a set of good brake line wrenches. I thought about that afterwords. I should know better.
However, if I cut the lines, SIXFOOTER you mentioned that I could reflair the lines. Is that difficult to do and is it a good repair?
If I replace the lines that I cut, how difficult is it to do? What seemed like a pretty easy repair early on is becoming strung out.
The nuts are NOT metric. If the tube nuts are rusted to the tube, you should replace the lines anyway. The 2 to the front brake, and the 2 from the master are simple to replace. rear one is a little tougher. Hopefully you were able to get the rear one off. Soak the nuts with penatrating oil for a couple days first.
[QUOTE=Duke94] The 2 to the front brake, and the 2 from the master are simple to replace. rear one is a little tougher.
That is a bit of an understatement isn't it???!!!
I agree with just replacing the lines...not very expensive and not all that difficult to do (except for the line going to the rear). If the nuts at any of the wheels are rounded you will find that there is not enough tube to cut off and re-flare. So you end up getting new lines anyway. Just get the complete set from Classic Tube or something like that.
Reflairig is not difficult if you have the flairing tool, don't remember what mine cost. I would recommend practicing a few times on a spare piece of tube first. New lines probly cost what a tool does.