When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I took the Vette to the strip tonight to make a pass and see what kind of times I should expect with the new engine, gears and tires. Just off the line I popped the U-Joint on the half-shaft at the wheel, Dangit.
Who knew that too much power and too much traction was a bad thing?
Who should I contact about getting new U-Joints that can handle 450 lbs of torque? Is there any thing besides the U-Joints that I should change?
To the Austin Folk, is there anyone around Austin that I can take it too to get the repairs done right, at a good price?
Re: Apparently I Need Stronger U-Joints!!! (dshrack)
I have brute force no zerk and in the past I have had spicer U's. I just replace them periodictly(sp?) often they are loose and I just get new ones. I have a line lock and do burn outs.
I have never broken one - with 10X28 slicks. The real key to long life is heavy suspension work to limit squat and no tire shake. I have a 4.11 rear built up Toms differentials
The other big thing is Custom hardened yokes. I can't say enough I bought 12 -15 years ago $225 each yokes and they out last $700 posi units
Re: Apparently I Need Stronger U-Joints!!! (gkull)
Just make sure whoever does the job does not use the cheap one that most discount places sell. Especially on the half shafts.. NAPA sells a good H.D joint and Spicers(original) are fine too.
Re: Apparently I Need Stronger U-Joints!!! (gkull)
I replace ujoints every other month. Used on track twice a week. I've tried both solid Brute Force and Spicers, like the Spicers best. I only have 355 hp ( a ZZ4 crate engine, 700R4 trans, 2800 stall converter, 3.73 rear, 275x15x60 BFG drag radials and run 1.69 60 foot, 12.82 quarter mile. I had to have heavier half shafts custom built as I twisted them in two. Gkull, you say the secret is stiffer supension to avoid squat, I need the squat to get a weight shift to the rear or I don't have traction with the BFG's. Anyways, I don't break ujoints anymore, just eat up the needles. Good luck, jamie
Re: Apparently I Need Stronger U-Joints!!! (robzr)
Rumor/theory... truth? is that U-Joints with a zerk/grease fitting are weaker than the "non-greaseable" type because the internal grease passages weaken the U-Joint. However... I have seen U-Joints with the passages drilled but with no provision for a Zerk fitting. I know this makes no sense, but I've seen it none the less. So... if you do buy into the "no zerk fitting" philosophy, just be sure there are no internal passages or you will be defeating the purpose. Without a fitting, there is obviously no way to grease the U-Joints except by taking them completely out. My experience with U-Joint yokes is that they are not designed for repeated press in/out operations, and over time they tend be loose around the U-Joint cap. Then you have to replace the ears, which means new diff yokes, half shafts, or flanges. This depends on how often you intend to re-grease a no-zerk U-Joint. In a non-drag-racing situation, the primary cause of U-Joint failure is loss of lubricant, usually under high mileage conditions. So... no racing, daily driver cars can benefit from the zerk fitting... race cars can benefit from the no-grease-passage U-Joints. Daily driver/race car combo? ... pay yer money, take yer chances.