@^&* still wont start/run
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 14
From: Norfolk VA
@^&* still wont start/run
For those who have read my previous threads. The vehicle still wont start and run. A recap of events
Installed Edelbrock RPM heads and headers.
Vehicle would start, but would not continue to run, horrible idle.
Hooked up advance inductive timing light to altenator, shorts out and fries fuse link at starter.
Replaced starter harness, vehicle starts but will not continue to run.
Reset distributor rotor to #1 cylinder, vehicle will not fire.
After resetting distributor, attempted to start vehicle, upon cranking exhaust backfired once, did not start (exhaust has no pipes behind headers), vehicle cranks slowly.
Recharged battery, vehicle backfired once but did not start.
Pulled spark plugs and the plugs from cylinders 1 (black,oil fouled) 4 (black and oil fouled) 8 (slightly oil fouled) and broke plug on cylinder 7.
My question is since three plugs were oil fouled, is that indicitive of a manifold leak? Since the car wont start and run, I cant check for vacuum leaks. If a manifold leak is the cause, will I need to replace the manifold gaskets (newly installed) or do I need to retorque the bolts. I will replace the spark plugs but what is the correct equivelant to Champion R12YC plugs?
As for the feul system, I have a Edelbrock 650cfm carb with the thick Edebrock carburetor gasket that helped keep the feul from boiling (so Edelbrock says) will I need to replace that gasket too? Will I need to adjust the air/feul mixture screws since I now have 64cc heads? Please someone point me in the right direction before I place a bomb beneath the car and blow it up.
Installed Edelbrock RPM heads and headers.
Vehicle would start, but would not continue to run, horrible idle.
Hooked up advance inductive timing light to altenator, shorts out and fries fuse link at starter.
Replaced starter harness, vehicle starts but will not continue to run.
Reset distributor rotor to #1 cylinder, vehicle will not fire.
After resetting distributor, attempted to start vehicle, upon cranking exhaust backfired once, did not start (exhaust has no pipes behind headers), vehicle cranks slowly.
Recharged battery, vehicle backfired once but did not start.
Pulled spark plugs and the plugs from cylinders 1 (black,oil fouled) 4 (black and oil fouled) 8 (slightly oil fouled) and broke plug on cylinder 7.
My question is since three plugs were oil fouled, is that indicitive of a manifold leak? Since the car wont start and run, I cant check for vacuum leaks. If a manifold leak is the cause, will I need to replace the manifold gaskets (newly installed) or do I need to retorque the bolts. I will replace the spark plugs but what is the correct equivelant to Champion R12YC plugs?
As for the feul system, I have a Edelbrock 650cfm carb with the thick Edebrock carburetor gasket that helped keep the feul from boiling (so Edelbrock says) will I need to replace that gasket too? Will I need to adjust the air/feul mixture screws since I now have 64cc heads? Please someone point me in the right direction before I place a bomb beneath the car and blow it up.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,106
Likes: 38
From: Newark DE
are you sure the distributor is installed correctly with the #1 cylinder at TDC and the rotor pointing to the #1 position on the distributor cap
are you sure your ignition wires are indexed correctly on the distributor?
are you sure your ignition wires are indexed correctly on the distributor?
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: Avon CO
Also this is a far stretch, but i noticed that you replaced your heads, i was down in school and my father was trying to get our block started and couldnt really get it, we talked about it extensively, and had the same thoughts as above, but at the same time he was pretty damn sure he was alright as far as timing. The same exact thing was happening, backfiring and some plugs were fouled while others were dry. We finally figured it out when we put a compression test on the cylinder, it ended up that we had torque the rocker arms down too tight and it was holding the valves open slightly not allowing it to get compression. So, while im not sure how much work you have done on it and if you have considered this, but you might want to check your compression and make sure it is alright
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
From: Partlow VA
Originally Posted by billlambeer
Also this is a far stretch, but i noticed that you replaced your heads, i was down in school and my father was trying to get our block started and couldnt really get it, we talked about it extensively, and had the same thoughts as above, but at the same time he was pretty damn sure he was alright as far as timing. The same exact thing was happening, backfiring and some plugs were fouled while others were dry. We finally figured it out when we put a compression test on the cylinder, it ended up that we had torque the rocker arms down too tight and it was holding the valves open slightly not allowing it to get compression. So, while im not sure how much work you have done on it and if you have considered this, but you might want to check your compression and make sure it is alright
NCM Grand Opening Veteran
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,979
Likes: 384
From: South of giving a damn
St. Jude Donor '11, '17
I agree with the others. Are you sure you got TDC on the intake stroke & not the exhaust stroke? It's an easy thing to screw up, especially when you're already frustrated.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
sounds like the distributor is not set up correctly specifically that it is not indexed to the correct spark plugs, perhaps its 180* out of sync.....also are you sure your valve adjustment is correct?
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
From: Woodstock Ga.
Originally Posted by Oldguard 7
For those who have read my previous threads. The vehicle still wont start and run. A recap of events
Installed Edelbrock RPM heads and headers.
Vehicle would start, but would not continue to run, horrible idle.
Hooked up advance inductive timing light to altenator, shorts out and fries fuse link at starter.
Replaced starter harness, vehicle starts but will not continue to run.
Reset distributor rotor to #1 cylinder, vehicle will not fire.
After resetting distributor, attempted to start vehicle, upon cranking exhaust backfired once, did not start (exhaust has no pipes behind headers), vehicle cranks slowly.
Recharged battery, vehicle backfired once but did not start.
Pulled spark plugs and the plugs from cylinders 1 (black,oil fouled) 4 (black and oil fouled) 8 (slightly oil fouled) and broke plug on cylinder 7.
My question is since three plugs were oil fouled, is that indicitive of a manifold leak? Since the car wont start and run, I cant check for vacuum leaks. If a manifold leak is the cause, will I need to replace the manifold gaskets (newly installed) or do I need to retorque the bolts. I will replace the spark plugs but what is the correct equivelant to Champion R12YC plugs?
As for the feul system, I have a Edelbrock 650cfm carb with the thick Edebrock carburetor gasket that helped keep the feul from boiling (so Edelbrock says) will I need to replace that gasket too? Will I need to adjust the air/feul mixture screws since I now have 64cc heads? Please someone point me in the right direction before I place a bomb beneath the car and blow it up.
Installed Edelbrock RPM heads and headers.
Vehicle would start, but would not continue to run, horrible idle.
Hooked up advance inductive timing light to altenator, shorts out and fries fuse link at starter.
Replaced starter harness, vehicle starts but will not continue to run.
Reset distributor rotor to #1 cylinder, vehicle will not fire.
After resetting distributor, attempted to start vehicle, upon cranking exhaust backfired once, did not start (exhaust has no pipes behind headers), vehicle cranks slowly.
Recharged battery, vehicle backfired once but did not start.
Pulled spark plugs and the plugs from cylinders 1 (black,oil fouled) 4 (black and oil fouled) 8 (slightly oil fouled) and broke plug on cylinder 7.
My question is since three plugs were oil fouled, is that indicitive of a manifold leak? Since the car wont start and run, I cant check for vacuum leaks. If a manifold leak is the cause, will I need to replace the manifold gaskets (newly installed) or do I need to retorque the bolts. I will replace the spark plugs but what is the correct equivelant to Champion R12YC plugs?
As for the feul system, I have a Edelbrock 650cfm carb with the thick Edebrock carburetor gasket that helped keep the feul from boiling (so Edelbrock says) will I need to replace that gasket too? Will I need to adjust the air/feul mixture screws since I now have 64cc heads? Please someone point me in the right direction before I place a bomb beneath the car and blow it up.
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Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
From: PA
Agree, 180 off, I just picked up another c3 that has not ran since 1986, primed the oil pump, stuck in the gas and that baby fired right up, of course half the lifters are probably colapsed. sound like your timing is off. when you drop in the distributer, make sure your timing mark on the crank is at zero.
