Can any one give a good step by step direction on the removal of the dash cluster (speedo and tac), on my 1979. I am removing it to replace the light switch. Have look at my manual and its about as clear as mud. Thanks Gary B.

 

Lets see how good my memory is because I have done my 80 several times and I believe them to be the same. First I removed the dash piece that is directly below the steering column, 2 screws. Then I loosend the 2 bolts that hold up the steering column and that allows the column to drop maybe an inch or two. Then you remove all the screws that hold the speedo/tach lens in the dash assembly. Then remove the screws that hold the entire assembly in the dash opening. This last part is a little vague in my memory . Not sure if you can reach behind the intrument pod from underneath the dash by the steering column or if I pulled the pod out far enough to get my hands on the electrical plug- in for the pod and the speedo cable. I believe if you remove the speedo cable first you can remove the electical connection last. Lastly it is a bit of twisting and turning of the pod to get it clear of the dash and the steering wheel/column. Good luck and repost for any unanswered questions. Brent

 

I agree. But I think you also have to remove the top of the dash for clearance. There is one mounting point for it behind the passanger panel that's not obvious.

May I suggest that while your there, ghange every bulb in the entire assembly. This is a pita job and you want to do it as few times as possible.

 

Some have posted here that they replaced the switch and didn't remove the cluster. Manual dexterity and loosening that side of the dash were a couple of the details. Maybe someone will repost or try a search. Good luck.

 

May I suggest that while your there, ghange every bulb in the entire assembly. This is a pita job and you want to do it as few times as possible.[/QUOTE]
Sorry I can't help you, I have a 1968, took the dash out to replace the Tach, I replaced every light bulb. I wound up pulling the entire interior except for the carpets. I've owned this car for 30yrs and have done this many times before, I always cringe at the thought. I'll take rusted bolts anyday!!!

 

I just did my 73 and did not need to pull the dash out. I dropped the steering wheel (Remove the bolts under thr dash)and removed the screws holding the dash pad. I was able to pull the dash down enought to replace the light switch. To Release the switch *** once the dash is down there is a button that needs to be pushed to release the rod. Then unscrew the bezel and the swap is easy then.

 

I just replaced the speedo cable on my 79 and it was a lot easier by taking out the duct to the lower left dash vent. I also have to replace the light switch on mine, so your timing is great posting a question now.

 

Well got the dash cluster/headlight switch out of the car but I seem to have found more problems then just the switch. The plug that goes on to the switch has several melted places on it The one that is the worst is a green wire, that plugs into the #2 prong on the switch. The wire doesn't look like it has been heated. What my question is where does this wire go to and is it possible to rebuild this plug. What I mean can I remove the wires and such and put the on a doner plug or just buy part of the wiring harness and splice the whole thing in. The original problem with my headlights were the lights would flash off/on when I switched from Dim to Bright. Thanks Gary B.

 

I can't comment on your question but I would think about putting your headlights on relay switches instead of having all the current running thru your on off switch. With the evidence of melting there that means you are pulling some heavy current; enough to possibly melt your dash and cause a fire. Don't want to scare you but this is a problem and I am getting ready to do the same thing. Mad Electronics has a good article on how to do this. Hope this helps somewhat.
Bernie

 

I've removed the upper dash pad. I've removed the screws from the left side of the pad. I've removed the screws that connect it to the center dash console. I do have the 1-2" of additional movement in the steering column. How do I get the dash pad loose so that I can replace/resolve the tach? I am almost finished changing the interior color from red to black (wifey's request) and am frustrated. I'm so close but so far away from getting my mistress back on the road. HEEEELLLLPPPP!!!!!

 

Hi,
I believe you'll find that the dash pad is held in place at this point by the clip above the tack that the dash wiring harness runs through as it passes above the speedo and tach; in addition, the length of the speedo and tach cables are so short that they must be disconnected from the back of the gauges at this point, and also the small astro-vent duct needs to be removed.
I also unbolt the column at the fire-wall flange to let the steering column drop down further; this helps relieve the stress on the fragile dash pad as you move it back.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

Just thought.. maybe no tach cable on your car. I believe all the rest is there.

 

This is way different than on your car... the OP had a 1978-1982 car which has a full dash pad in it not pieces.

But... If the upper pad is out.. and the two jamb screws, the center bezel screws are out.. then the pad is free.

I would pull the column next.... makes the job all to easy...

I would remove the two nuts on the engine side of the firewall that hold the steering column to the firewall and the coupling bolt from the steering gear at the gear box. You will also need to take the lock cable loose from the column at the firewall on the engine side.... once done remove the steering column and you will have all the room you need.... There are only five bots that hold the column in.. two at the main bracket under the dash pad, two at the firewall and one at the steering gear box. You will also need to disconnect the wires at the bottom which include the turn signal switch connector and the ignition switch connector.

I would then take the speedo cable loose from the transmisison... this will allow you to pull the dash pad backwards to remove the cable from the speedometer.

I have all the dash removal instructions on the site.. but after I wrote this I decided it was better on the pad and the pad remover to go head and pull the steering column.

Willcox Inc.

 

I have seen so many cracked and damaged clusters and dash pads for one reason: they didn't remove the column! Take the driver's seat out (4 bolts) and the colunm (half a dozen bolts and a plug or two) completely out. The amount of room and ease of removal will blow you away. These plastic and otherwise molded pieces are too old to twist and pull on! This applies to old and newer vettes.

Hans

 

Hans, you are 100 percent correct. The left pad will bet a crease in it from sitting on the pad and being tugged on.. it will crack where it is thin between the sub-straight on the back and it just makes for such an easier job. Its really not hard to pull and just makes the task at hand that much easier.