Bring that guy on! That's who I'm looking for in my old Vette. With my 950 - 1000 rpm smooth idle. They can have more ci because they are much heavier

I can't remember the type of heads that got messed up. They did not have heli-coils in the rocker studs. They were really big ports and 2.30/1.92 They probably just had way to much spring pressure on some blower motor. They had come off some boat motor and my buddy bought them for his 472 tunnel ram boat with a 2 speed power glide

 

"mine goes rumpy rumpy better than your rumpy rumpy"

 

Solid roller is definetly a good option if you want to get the absolute most out of your valve train and cam. No bleeding of lifters and hoping they are not getting weak internally etc. With a solid, you set em, and you know exactly what you have got, especially on the lift. BUT with that being sad, do you really need it? are you going to be revving it to 7000-7500rpms regularly? Are your heads/intake/carb going to support that kind of HP at that high of RPMs? If not, a regular hyd roller may be a better option. NO maintence, less valvetrain noise and with todays new hyd roller lifters, less bleed. Not to mention you run much less spring pressure which is easier on parts and does not eat up as much HP. I have not set up a roller big block as most of my experience is with LS1s and I know they are completely different animals. BUT I have a HUGE hyd roller in my LS1, the car makes 400rwhp with stock heads and LS6 intake and I shift it at 6800 rpms and go through the traps at 6500-6800 rpms. Never have any issues what so ever. This is with stock LS1 rocker arms, no pedestal mount crap. I do have double Patriot gold valve springs/chromemoly pushrods but since its a hydraulic, I don't have to run THAT much spring pressure, especially compared to solid. Only thing I have to do is about every 15k miles I have to check or replace the valve springs because using the COMP XE cam blank, it has an extremely quick ramp rate and thats hard on valve springs.

My point being is I find it hard to believe that a street driving big block is going to be revving to 7k rpms all the time, if its not going to be, I would go hyd roller.

A buddy of mine just finished a 496" BB, it had fully worked edelbrock rpm heads, a hydraulic flat tappet cam(non roller) that was not really even that big, under .600 lift with a fully portmatched RPM air gap intake, it dynoed 611hp on pump gas with a 750 blue printed holley DP. We haven't ran it at the track yet but sure its going to run 10.80-11.0s. Its in a full weight/interior 66 SS396 Chevelle with stock suspension on ET drag radials. He has been driving it every where and has put almost 1k miles on it in 2 months.

 

Winniing is everything on the street or strip, if it takes a solid roller
to win go for it. As John Force likes to say 2nd place is just a first
place looser. Solid rollers make more power then hydraulic rollers
even at lower rpm levels, but you you have to adjust valves.
If you look at the engine masters challenge where they are limited to
6800 rpm you find two things, long stroke small bore motors, and solid
roller cams.

 

To me , this choice needs more info. Like will you really be buzzing this motor to the stratosphere regularly and what kind of street manners do you need?

I know a guy with a 4.500X3.76 stroke motor in his Vette. Peaked Hp at 8100 rpm and he shifts at 8600 rpm! But this is with titanium valves etc.

A good solid nasty solid flat tappet can rev to the moon and make good power, but manners won't be as nice.

You are definitely not in hyd anything territory if you want to rev like that.

I like the comfort of a girdle on any of this stuff. I have an ancient single bar Moroso one on mine and it works well. But it needs tall covers. For sure the shafts are a great option. I know you can get the profiled Jesels under a set of stock covers with double gaskets and a little massage work with a hammer. Check with ML67 for details...he just did it.

You might also look into the newest Schubeck lifters. He has a new set of the rollerX's coming out with a steel wheel instead of a composite one. No axles and needles to wear out...might be perfect for you.

The newest Comp rollers have a newer larger bearing and pressurized oiling to the axles too.

Settign valves is no big deal, but that will all be determined by how radical a cam you pick.

JIM

 

I used to run a Comp Cams girdle, used 3/8" coarse thread bolts threaded into a single piece of aluminum to capture the rocker studs. No provision for locking nuts and no room between the girdle and the valve covers for nuts either. Anyway, I guess I should cleaned the bolts and re-locktighted them every time I touched them because one of the bolts backed out and dropped into the cam valley and wedged between a cam lobe and the block. After relieving a clearance hole in the block the bolt dropped down and banged around the crank and the pan rails, destroying a couple of rods and pistons and cracking the crank. So the heads and accessories were still good, but the block and rotating assy was junk. The strange thing is that I drove the car for another hour and a half and it ran fine until the coolant/oil mixture began to froth out the breathers and onto the headers.

So, I think that if there is no compelling reason to put more parts inside your motor, Don't do it! I feel the same about rev kits, multi-piece adjustable timing chain gears. Just more stuff to break or fall apart.

 

Oh man don't let IRON CROSS here this LOL. That would make a guy sick do you
have a solid flat tappit now??

 

Here I am. Pick your poison and then tape your doors shut or else they may get blown off.

Heres some choices, The Pump Jockeys nice Camaro, 454 LS7,

Or would you prefer the 427 L88?


If this pair isn`t satisfactory, I have more in the stable go pick one out.

 

You have to many toys to play with this is not fair LOL

 

...................................... ........................


It`s all about winning I guess as the name of the game, and just lucky enough to have a big sand box

 

Iron cross - I hurt my Vette to many times doing the 100's upon 100's rounds of drag strips.

Have you heard of the one mile drags? Where they go for top speed? A few years ago I had one of the Z0-6's with mods that wanted to do any money agaist my 383 SR 79. Read up on this in Hot Rod and few other car rags. It's the test of real car. Not some 4 link light car in 1/4 racing.



Some 800hp + N20 C-5 out of Texas went 184 mph or so. Some bikes have gone over 200 mph in the mile.

Well me and and the modded Z06 line up and he had the jump on my 3500 stall 383 with the Art Car racing 700R4 I'm just running my 315/35/17 rear radials. Once I was into my 2-3 shift at about 90 mph it was all over. When I shifted at @ 135 into 4th gear he was back in the dust when I went through at 165. I wish I had bet more Money

Now I went with a 427 CI and manual tranny to get another 25 HP over an auto just to do in a 67 Camero.

 

Gkull Reno Nevada Is a very short trip to the salt were they run real
autos. I was in Reno last Augest and checked out what was left
of the harrah auto museum, I saw it 20 yrs ago when they had three
buildings and more then 1300 cars. So when are you and Iron Cross
going to meet up at Bonneville??

 

There is a couple of guys on this forum that run at Bonneville. I've been there quite a few times over the years and managed to drive my car. The tech inspections are tough and your talking over $500 in entry fees. Same thing with Nevada open highway road races. You might as well plan on $2000 to run

 

I have seen them do tech inspections on the boob tube. I don't
know your car that well I assume it has a roll cage. now that
you mention the nevada highway races. have you seen the
articles on the stock bodied 69 camaro called big red with the
540 big block and nascar frame work, they clocked him at 222 mph
and I think his average speed was in the 190s.