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T-Arm Issue: See pic

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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 09:29 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by RedBad1979
The flaring tool is included when you buy the poly bushings from VBP.
Matey, I bought my T/A rubber bushings and bolts fromCorvette Central and theywant US$79 + freight forthem - hence the assistance thread. Thanks
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 09:47 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Aussie One
Matey, I bought my T/A rubber bushings and bolts fromCorvette Central and theywant US$79 + freight forthem - hence the assistance thread. Thanks

Look at my photo on the first page of this thread. the flaring tool is basically a bolt and a lug nut. You can buy that for less than $4 at your local auto parts store.
Unlike poly bushings you'll have to compress your rubber bushings before you flare the sleeve, that makes it a little more difficult. Two C-clamps should be ok for that job.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 09:55 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by RedBad1979
Look at my photo on the first page of this thread. the flaring tool is basically a bolt and a lug nut. You can buy that for less than $4 at your local auto parts store.
Unlike poly bushings you'll have to compress your rubber bushings before you flare the sleeve, that makes it a little more difficult. Two C-clamps should be ok for that job.
Thanks matey - this forum is great because of blokes like you
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 09:55 AM
  #24  
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I talked to Energy Suspension - their tech guy said NOT to stake the poly bushings, as they are designed to rotate freely just the way they are.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 10:49 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
I talked to Energy Suspension - their tech guy said NOT to stake the poly bushings, as they are designed to rotate freely just the way they are.
Based on that, I prefer the way VBP does their kit; staking the end washers. They provide three pairs of shims to set up the bushing assembly. When setup per their instructions, there is not much pressure being applied. This has no influence on how freely the trailing arm rotates. If they stated the bushing rotates, then I would question their knowledge. The bushing are held in place and the trailing arm rotates.




Originally Posted by RedBad1979
Look at my photo on the first page of this thread. the flaring tool is basically a bolt and a lug nut. You can buy that for less than $4 at your local auto parts store.
Unlike poly bushings you'll have to compress your rubber bushings before you flare the sleeve, that makes it a little more difficult. Two C-clamps should be ok for that job.

The tool that is sold to do rubber bushings is fairly salty. The rubber bushing has to be compressed unlike poly.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 01:58 PM
  #26  
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I am putting together my rear suspension too. I read this thread, went out and looked at mine and now I have the same damn problem. SH*T. I thought the shims would be last to go in after assembly and now I need to rip it all apart. I tried for about an hour last night trying to get them to slip back in and no luck. Looks like a have a new weekend project.
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Old Jun 8, 2006 | 02:25 PM
  #27  
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What brand did you get? Was it a kit or just bushings? The orignal poster's picture looks like the trailing arm shims go aginst the bushing. I hope they are not just popping out after a few minutes. If so, when you get it aligned make sure the person knows that. They may have to pull the shims out. Right after that the phone rings, he takes his coffee break, 20 minutes later and the bushing are sticking out before he gets a chance to put shims back in it.
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