T-Arm Issue: See pic
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 416
Likes: 11
From: Merrick NY
T-Arm Issue: See pic
So I'm shimming my trailing arms out, when I notice the passenger side T-Arm bushings are pushed out on both sides and are sitting flush against the inside of the frame rails (See pic below)
Any recommendations on a way to re-insert them back into the arm without removing it or damaging the bushings, or am I looking at a T-arm de-install to fix it?
Any recommendations on a way to re-insert them back into the arm without removing it or damaging the bushings, or am I looking at a T-arm de-install to fix it?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 416
Likes: 11
From: Merrick NY
Originally Posted by 77vettejeff
I just replaced my TA's. Shouldn't there be shims there? It shouldn't have anywhere to move if the shims are there. Or, maybe I need glasses!
Would this damage the bushings, or are there other concerns as to why they slid out of the arm?
Instructor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
I think I would be a little concerned why they came out. I bought my arms as complete assemblies and the bushings were tight within the arm. They were not poly. If you havent put any other suspension components on maybe you could just pull them back out and have a look. Also for reference, I installed my shims as I removed them. It turned-out to be 1/2" in the insides. The first time on the alignment rack I saw my toe was out. A 1/8" shim movement from one side of the arm to the other changed the measurement about .47 degrees.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 416
Likes: 11
From: Merrick NY
Originally Posted by wnjlt1
Stump, same thing happened to me when i went to install the long ta bolt which pushed the inner poly bushing center insert out. worked it back in with a slightly angled prybar.
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Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by birdsmith
The inner and outer halves of those bushings have to be staked together. Yours obviously weren't, so you need to remove the T-Arms and properly stake the bushings.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 416
Likes: 11
From: Merrick NY
Originally Posted by Red_Shift
But was the car driven without the shims in? Please explain how the bushings would have pushed out that far if shims where in already.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
Poly bushings do not have to be staked but I have read a lot of posts that say they are not the best bushing to use in this application. They wear faster than the original rubber ones. You could try prying them back in but if it were mine I would pull the TA and push them back in, install using plenty of grease on the bolt and shim both sides equally until you could have it aligned. Hope you get it going!
Bernie
Bernie
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by BerniesVette
They wear faster than the original rubber ones.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
If it is freshly assembled the TA bolt MIGHT come right out. You could try wedging the bushing over with a small pry bar but when I assembled mine the bolt was well lubed before assembly and slid right in. I put most of the shims back in at that point at the approximate thickness they were on disassembly. Good luck as it is all a PITA!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
Originally Posted by birdsmith
The inner and outer halves of those bushings have to be staked together. Yours obviously weren't, so you need to remove the T-Arms and properly stake the bushings.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
The inner sleeve should be flared to keep the bushing assembly in the T.A.
If you're lucky and get the bushings back in the arm then the shims will hold them in place.
You're saying you just rebuilt the rear ? All your bolts should come loose easily...
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If you're lucky and get the bushings back in the arm then the shims will hold them in place.
You're saying you just rebuilt the rear ? All your bolts should come loose easily...
.
.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
From: NorCal 71 Lt-1
the poly bushings on this offset trailing arms which i purchased recently through a supporting vender did not have any washers , spacers or inner and outer flange washers @ the ends of the bushings unlike the stock bushings. it had basically (2) poly bushings, one installed from the inside and the other from the outside of the trailing arm. a center sleeve went through them which was snug in the poly bushings and was not staked. there are probably a few different types of bushings, some that need to be staked and others that don't like this example. Stump, if this is what you have...work the sleeve and bushing back into the arm, install the alignment shims and torque down the nut.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Port Macquarie New South Wales
I am very interested in this thread - I live in Aussie and have a 79 which steers badly from the rear. I believe my T arm bushings are shot. I am interested in knowing what other members have used (or made up) to flare the bushing inner steel tube ? I know I could buy a special tool but to buy one and get it sent to Aussie would cost about $200. Any help would be appreciated.BTW: I am one of the lucky ones as my T/A bolts test moved when I undid the nut and hit them with a hammer (must say something for the weather here, it doesn't snow hence no salt on roads- so looks like I won't have to saw through the bolts like some members have had to do.
Come to think of it why didn't GM make the iner tube in two halves with both ends flared - then we'd only have to bolt them together and maybe pull the bushings in at the same time.
Any suggestions on a home-made flaring tool or other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by Aussie One
I am very interested in this thread - I live in Aussie and have a 79 which steers badly from the rear. I believe my T arm bushings are shot. I am interested in knowing what other members have used (or made up) to flare the bushing inner steel tube ? I know I could buy a special tool but to buy one and get it sent to Aussie would cost about $200. Any help would be appreciated.BTW: I am one of the lucky ones as my T/A bolts test moved when I undid the nut and hit them with a hammer (must say something for the weather here, it doesn't snow hence no salt on roads- so looks like I won't have to saw through the bolts like some members have had to do.
Come to think of it why didn't GM make the iner tube in two halves with both ends flared - then we'd only have to bolt them together and maybe pull the bushings in at the same time.
Any suggestions on a home-made flaring tool or other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
