Has anyone here ordered their new 6 link kit? For 900 bucks, it looks like a deal.


http://www.dragvette.com/irs_build_up.htm

If only I knew this before I spent my tax return

 

Now I have to add that to my projects when I get back to the US.

Dragvette 6 link
Van Steel coilovers
17" wheels
Hydroboost
Corvette Steering box

BB?

 

Just reading through the website is intereting enough. I wonder if the draglink adds any noise to the car while driving. I like the idea. Hmmm......this would be a good safety just in case a u-joint were to come apart.


Maybe I skimmed over it while looking at the product, but what is the difference in the 3 levels they are offering for sale there?

 

The main improvement is the upper link which is supposed to keep the tire planted firmly on the tarmac. Under torque, the tire on an IRS wants to cant to its edge but the additional top link is supposed to prevent that. With the addition of top link support plates mounted to the differential, a u-bolt inner HS safety loop is added (black u-bolt in pic). I'd like to hear from a drag racer who upgraded to this extra support link with practical results. It looks great, but it is a lot less expensive and complicated to just go with a straight axle if you are drag racing.

 

has anyone used one of these kits with a performance plus kit from vbp?? and if so, does it effect cornering?? might be a stupid Q but i like to corner and i like to go to the track every now and then.. any suggestions / comments???

 

The trailing arm has seen its better days.

 

I was wondering that too GDania, looks like a nice part to bolt up to that raggedy Azzed TA

just my .02

 

I wonder if it's strong enough though. That center plate looks like it only picks up 2 bolts on each side of the diff, & the top rear links just bolt to the same plate. The upper otbd posts look iffy. The lower otbd connections look good & beefy though.

At least there's something on the market now

 

Looks like they have the pivots positioned correctly...nice! 9they cleverly moved the lower pivot from the "fork" further inboard, that makes the upper mout on the trailing arm shroter and stronger, otherwide it'd have to extend further inboard)

However, I agree..the lower rods are probably 5/8th rods ends & sleeves, then the upper ones will be 1/2 rod ends and sleeves. A bit on the thin side if you ask me, I'd rather have 5/8th. The 2 bolt mounting on each side and the plate across the rear to support it from collapsing...dunno, in that case I would rather have a bracket that you can weld to the crossmember (and use those plates to bolt it up and position the bracket corretly, then weld in place) This only fits the iron diff setups so they all have the crossmember to weld to.

Also, the upepr rod end is not only small w/ it's 1/2 inch...it's also mounted in single shear on both sides and the rod ends is laid down flat on the trailing arm side, this means that the movement is not taken up by ball rotation but by misalignment clearane in the rod end. So, if you move the suspension too far for some reason it will side load the rod end and they snap off immediately. It would have been a lot better if the rod end was stood up and bolted through in double shear,giving better fixation and no need to rely on the misalignment angle.

This retains the trailing arm and does nothing for the biggest problem, the toe control. All this does it eliminate the halfshaft as part of the camber geometry which unloads the stub axle. A neat thing but it will offer no handling improvement over a slop free stock setup. The only possible improvement will be made here by any change (if there is a change, hard to judge from pics) in pivot positions altering the virtual swing arm (and instantaneous center location and roll cetner height)

 

Good point, I definitly can see how that would snap once the stud hits the outer race. Also, that bearing in the heim joint probably won't last as long as it should in that position. Probably end up getting a weird wear pattern in no time, especially if it gets contamined with dirt/dust.

What do you think would be best to tie the upper links together? I think Norval & Brutus used the lower OEM strut rod bracket & modified it for the upper links. How did you work that out with the later batwing?

I really like how they've installed loops to contain a broken shaft or u-joint

Regarding the toe problem, why does it happen? Is it because the link attach points are not in line with the drive axles causing the trailing arms to "bend" while the links push & pull under compression/extension?

Even though it doesn't take care of the toe issue, it does address the camber change problem. I would still get this kit, but I would fix the weak links on the upper rods by rotating the upper TA rod end 90* & linking both upper links to each other.

 

I reviewed dragvette's DVD illustrating installation and full travel range with 0 camber change last night. Impressive.

 

I would want camber gain instead 0 camber change

 

It does add noise. The solid rod ends clunk a little going over bumps. Rod ends are not a good choice if you don't want that clunky sound comming from the rearend everytime you go over a road crack.
At times it gets to me too

 

You don't get camber change at all throughout the entire wheel travel but toe change is also bad. It does keep the tires planted flat to the pavement but the car will still toe steer.
As for $900 that is plenty of money for a few pieces of steel and cheap rod ends and a few linkages.
Anyone can easily put their own 6 link together for about 1/10th the cost.

 

.............if your name happens to be Norval or Marck

 

no camber change is not a good thing, you want camber change...how much depends on the roll characteristic of your car, more roll -> more camber change. otherwise you can never maximize your contact patch...and setting BS amounts of initial because your setup is static in camber is not the best way to go about it, tires will wear out uneven;ly, uneven tire temps during long straights... ...

 

What's your mailing address? I'll send you a check for $90 tomorrow.

Thanks Norval ...You're the greatest