No Go on New engine parts.
06-05-2006, 04:27 PM
#21
Safety Car
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06-05-2006, 07:59 PM
#22
Race Director
Is the motor still spinning real fast when you turn it over, like alot faster than normal ?
Maybe you could tell us what you did, as in start from the beginning, "I took the old heads off .......
Possibly something overlooked that we can catch if you tell us step by step what you did in the install
Maybe you could tell us what you did, as in start from the beginning, "I took the old heads off .......
Possibly something overlooked that we can catch if you tell us step by step what you did in the install
Last edited by MotorHead; 06-05-2006 at 08:01 PM.
06-05-2006, 08:09 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
Is the motor still spinning real fast when you turn it over, like alot faster than normal ?
Maybe you could tell us what you did, as in start from the beginning, "I took the old heads off .......
Possibly something overlooked that we can catch if you tell us step by step what you did in the install
Maybe you could tell us what you did, as in start from the beginning, "I took the old heads off .......
Possibly something overlooked that we can catch if you tell us step by step what you did in the install
We need more info, even the specs of the parts you are using would help. Like the push rod length and stuff like that. Did you measure the push rod length with the new heads and roller lifters? Step by steps like MotorHead suggests would help us help you.
06-05-2006, 08:25 PM
#24
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It is a Holley Systemax 2 setup for a sb 350. First I striped the engine down to the block and pistons. Then I put everything back on according to Holley's Instructions. I used this:
and this
and these
and this
and these
06-05-2006, 08:39 PM
#25
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I'm not sure if this helps but I have a bunch of pictures on what I did. http://24.118.233.41/jebu.html
Last edited by JustinD; 06-05-2006 at 08:42 PM.
06-05-2006, 08:47 PM
#26
I cant get the audio player to work for me so I cant tell much about
whats going on. Have you checked the compression with a gauge
before you do all this readjusting of the valves. Is the motor just not
firing??
whats going on. Have you checked the compression with a gauge
before you do all this readjusting of the valves. Is the motor just not
firing??
06-05-2006, 08:50 PM
#27
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I pulled the plug and turned it over to check for spark and it is there. I haven't done a compresion test yet. How should I go about that, a gauge from the auto store? BTW, it is quicktime movie player. My camera doesn't do windows media player for some stupid reason.
06-05-2006, 09:11 PM
#28
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Justin, when you installed the cam did you have the dot on the crank cog at 12 o'clock and the cam cog dot at 12 o'clock position too. On most every other set up I've seen the dots line up at 12 and 6, so when I installed mine it weirded me out pretty good. However, it said to do it that way in the instructions. I agree with these other guys as they are on the money too. If your distributor was 180 you would at least get some backfiring and such. It's got to be in the valve train somewhere I think. I tried to view your clips but they wouldn't come up.
06-05-2006, 09:24 PM
#29
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Well, the compresion test gives no reading at all. Try right clicking and saving the clips. There are in quicktime format. Also my cam was lined up 12, 12
06-05-2006, 09:29 PM
#30
When you installed the cam and timing chain the dot on the cam
gear has to be at the 6 oclock position the dot on the crank gear
must be at the 12 oclock position?? If you have the cam gear at 12
and the crank gear at 12 this is your problem
gear has to be at the 6 oclock position the dot on the crank gear
must be at the 12 oclock position?? If you have the cam gear at 12
and the crank gear at 12 this is your problem
06-05-2006, 09:34 PM
#31
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MY instructions told me 12 on both gears. Even if the gears were wrong which they are not, I still should be reading compresion right.
Last edited by JustinD; 06-05-2006 at 09:40 PM.
06-05-2006, 09:40 PM
#32
Trust me I have built countless motors what I said is right. you will have to change your cam gear and crank position. when you have it right the dot on the cam gear will be right on top of the dot
on the crank gear.
on the crank gear.
06-05-2006, 09:41 PM
#33
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06-05-2006, 09:43 PM
#34
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Did you pressurize the oil through the system before adjustment? If not you may have pushed all the plungers down and not pumped them back up. If the plungers are at the bottom then when you try to start it the oil pressure will push the valves open.
06-05-2006, 09:44 PM
#35
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Even if that was the case my timing would just be severly off, I get no compresion and no pops of backfires. I went and got a tester I read 0 on cylinder #2. (It was the only one I tested.) No, I did not presurize the system. But I can look at my rockers and see that some are open and some are closed.
06-05-2006, 09:47 PM
#36
Race Director
Originally Posted by Little Mouse
Trust me I have built countless motors what I said is right. you will have to change your cam gear and crank position. when you have it right the dot on the cam gear will be right on top of the dot
on the crank gear.
on the crank gear.
Doesn't matter if you do 12-12 or 12-6. If you install it 12-6 and turn the crank one turn it will be 12-12. Cam goes 1/2 turn every crank revolution.
06-05-2006, 09:51 PM
#38
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Well, I think I should go by my instructions. (Not to be-little you or anything) I still should get a compresion reading that is my problem I think. Could my head gaskets be wrong for my heads? i'm just trying to find reasons for no compresion.
06-05-2006, 09:56 PM
#40
Race Director
If the valves close you will have compression. Maybe a bad gauge? Take a plug out. Put a socket and ratchet on the crank bolt. Rotate the engine by hand with your thumb over the plug hole (ignition tunred OFF). At some point you should feel air pushed by your thumb.