When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Sounds like the linkage came loose or something fell apart in the shifter
Get underneath and tighten all the linkage especially where the rod ends mount to the side cover of the trans
You should only need a 9/16 wrench
ps: Make sure after you tighten everything up that the arms on the cover are straight up and down ... neutral
Sounds like the linkage came loose or something fell apart in the shifter
Get underneath and tighten all the linkage especially where the rod ends mount to the side cover of the trans
You should only need a 9/16 wrench
ps: Make sure after you tighten everything up that the arms on the cover are straight up and down ... neutral
Man..this happened to me just a few months ago in my 78.....Only ended up with second gear..the shifter was loose between 1st & 2nd,and would not go into 3rd,4th or reverse..turned out the 1st to 2nd rod keeper spring clip fell out,and the linkage came off the shift rod to transmission..easy fix..
Man..this happened to me just a few months ago in my 78.....Only ended up with second gear..the shifter was loose between 1st & 2nd,and would not go into 3rd,4th or reverse..turned out the 1st to 2nd rod keeper spring clip fell out,and the linkage came off the shift rod to transmission..easy fix..
I have something similar. Shifting into 2nd and 4th is very smooth. Shifting into 1st and 3rd has more resistance-- sometimes especially with first it takes a pretyy good push to get it into gear. I'll get under the car and look at my linkage as well.
Sometimes when I punch it, the car jumps out of 1st or 2nd gear. Is this also related to the linkage adjustment?
I have something similar. Shifting into 2nd and 4th is very smooth. Shifting into 1st and 3rd has more resistance-- sometimes especially with first it takes a pretyy good push to get it into gear. I'll get under the car and look at my linkage as well.
Sometimes when I punch it, the car jumps out of 1st or 2nd gear. Is this also related to the linkage adjustment?
Kind of limp, I did push and hold and got first once.
I think your 1st 3rd stop bolt on your linkage needs adjusting. The hurst linkage is great if properly adjusted. There is a hole in the side of the shifter. This is to set the neutral position and adjust the linkage. There is an angled set bolt front and back. This is to set how far your arms move to engage trans. The front set bolt is a stop for your 1st and third. The rear set bolt is the stop for your 2nd and fourth. I disconnect the 2 long rods at the trans. Install a pin that fits snugly in the hole on the shifter body at neutral. Put the trans arms in neutral. adjust rods till they drop into the holes in the side cover arms easily. Remove pin. Then, with the arms unhooked manually put the arm on the trans in first. Put the shifter in first. The linkage rod should slide right into the trans arm hole. If it don't you have to adjust, back off, the front stop bolt on linkage till it does. Same procedure in 2nd 4th with rear stop bolt. Hope this helps. It takes a little work but the Muncie with a Hurst linkage, properly adjusted is the best, quickest, most positive shifting set up I have ever used.
It sounds like a bolt on the adapter plate on the tail-shaft has worked itself out. No chance it's a transmission failure (2 seperate gear-sets on the cluster.)
I hope it's your shifter linkage, but the first thing that came to my mind was that your synchro rings are toast.
Torqvette,
Thanks for the input. I wondered about synchro rings too. the shifting has always been "notchie" but all gears felt the same and the Hurst comp plus shifter was well used. This trans could have been well used also, I did a automatic to Muncie swap a couple of years ago and never had any issues till today. I probably should have rebuild the trans at that time but was told it was fine.
can you tell me if 1st and 3rd synchro rings are related to each other? it was very odd that I lost both gears at the same time after just crusing at high speed with no shifting involved.
as I mentioned I was "dripping" more than usual but it felt and smelled like motor oil not gear oil and I do leak at the rear intake gasket when I get up on the RPM's
It feels like I just can't get the shifter to move far enough forward to engage those gears but what movement I do get seems kind of limp (little resistance) but I could not tell on the road if it was shifter or internals of the muncie.
I think your 1st 3rd stop bolt on your linkage needs adjusting. The hurst linkage is great if properly adjusted. There is a hole in the side of the shifter. This is to set the neutral position and adjust the linkage. There is an angled set bolt front and back. This is to set how far your arms move to engage trans. The front set bolt is a stop for your 1st and third. The rear set bolt is the stop for your 2nd and fourth. I disconnect the 2 long rods at the trans. Install a pin that fits snugly in the hole on the shifter body at neutral. Put the trans arms in neutral. adjust rods till they drop into the holes in the side cover arms easily. Remove pin. Then, with the arms unhooked manually put the arm on the trans in first. Put the shifter in first. The linkage rod should slide right into the trans arm hole. If it don't you have to adjust, back off, the front stop bolt on linkage till it does. Same procedure in 2nd 4th with rear stop bolt. Hope this helps. It takes a little work but the Muncie with a Hurst linkage, properly adjusted is the best, quickest, most positive shifting set up I have ever used.
63 mako,
Thanks for the detailed adjustment advise.
I originally set up the shifter as you described with a Hurst instruction manual and bought the adjustment pin too but I never even thought to look at or adjust the front or rear stop bolt!
I wonder now if it may have loosened up and moved. It feels like something is stopping me from pushing the shifter all the way forward and whatever it is its solid.
Any thoughts on why this setup feels "notchie" not smooth like Hurst’s are known for. This Hurst has seen better days but I am not sure of the condition of the syncros. Although all gears feel the same so maybe it’s the shifter.
First I would like to thank everyone for the help...
I got the vette up on stands and to my suprise everything looked normal, nothing falling off, everything moved free. It was a mystery...
even the front stop was tight. I started to get that "this is going to be expensive sinking feeling"
So I looked up at the rear stop and through my tears... I could see it to reach it with my hand and it was LOOSE!!!
I backed it off tightened it down and ran it through the gears...
everything is cool
Oh happy day... God bless Corvette Forum!
Thanks Guys!!!
John
Sorry John, Must be that almost 50 declining mental faculties thing. The rear stop is for 1&3 the front is for 2&4. I used to know what I was babbling about . Hoped I helped you out though.