82 Vette STILL overheating - Please help
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Austin TX
82 Vette STILL overheating - Please help
1982 Corvette
350 CID
700R4
4-core radiator
I am still having trouble with overheating. I can drive the car at around 45 and the temp will perpendicular on the gauge – around 200 I think, I am not near the car. This takes about 25-30 minutes, but it gets there. If I drive it 65+, then it will eventually burry the needle and start to boil over. I can’t run the AC because it will also bury the needle at any speed. I have replaced all of the listed parts below. I did notice that the hose coming from the thermostat, and the inlet hose from the heater to the water pump were collapsing while it was running hot – not completely, but enough to show there is negative pressure there somewhere. I am not sure what else to try. I have had it flushed several times, but that did nothing as well. Someone did mention that it might have an air pocket in there. If so, then it probably will be in the heads, because I just replaced the water pump and it drained the rest of the engine – I guess. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
Water pump
All hoses
Thermostat
Radiator is about 1.5 years old.
Fan blade
Fan clutch
Fan relay
The heater core has not been replaced yet, but there was good flow going through it.
TIA,
CDM
350 CID
700R4
4-core radiator
I am still having trouble with overheating. I can drive the car at around 45 and the temp will perpendicular on the gauge – around 200 I think, I am not near the car. This takes about 25-30 minutes, but it gets there. If I drive it 65+, then it will eventually burry the needle and start to boil over. I can’t run the AC because it will also bury the needle at any speed. I have replaced all of the listed parts below. I did notice that the hose coming from the thermostat, and the inlet hose from the heater to the water pump were collapsing while it was running hot – not completely, but enough to show there is negative pressure there somewhere. I am not sure what else to try. I have had it flushed several times, but that did nothing as well. Someone did mention that it might have an air pocket in there. If so, then it probably will be in the heads, because I just replaced the water pump and it drained the rest of the engine – I guess. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
Parts replaced.
Water pump
All hoses
Thermostat
Radiator is about 1.5 years old.
Fan blade
Fan clutch
Fan relay
The heater core has not been replaced yet, but there was good flow going through it.
TIA,
CDM
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,322
Likes: 1
From: Living in the Hartland
Do you have a spring in the lower hose? It will collapse if not. I use a universal hose which has molded in ribs but I am running an elec fan and no shroud.
Also check your timing and fuel metering, if you are running retarded timing or lean (or both) it will run hot. Check to see if your vac adv is hooked up.
Cooling issues are not always just cooling system issues
Also check your timing and fuel metering, if you are running retarded timing or lean (or both) it will run hot. Check to see if your vac adv is hooked up.
Cooling issues are not always just cooling system issues
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
I see you have a high rise hood and a daytona front, is the stock airdam still in place? I noticed the temps soaring after installing my L88 hood, what happens is the incoming air passes over the radiator instead of through it, if you don't have the airdam it'll be even worse because of the majority of air going under the car. I would install a lower scoop if not present and also add a leading edge in the front of the top rail of the radiator frame to force the air through the rad
Racer
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
From: Palm Bay FL
A collapsed radiator hose can be caused by a defective radiator cap, or the tube going to the coolant reservoir may be clogged. As the engine gets hot, it creates a vacuum which draws coolant from the reservoir. If the path to the reservoir is plugged...then what happens???...the hose will tend to collapse
. Hope this helps.
. Hope this helps.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
If you can drive at 45 all day long without breaking 200 I'd say Twin Turbo is right on the money. Front spoiler and blocked off at the top of the rad it critical.
I see you broke the 220 mark a couple of times...does your electric fan kick in??? It should.
Do you have a shoud around the fan???
Jim
I see you broke the 220 mark a couple of times...does your electric fan kick in??? It should.
Do you have a shoud around the fan???
Jim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
I agree, Radiator cap is a easy duck. Fix the radiator seals, make sure the lower hose has ribs, Air dam has to be there and in proper shape and shroud has to be there if your running stock fan
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 162
From: columbia city in
i would take out the thermostatand see what it does .the new thermostat could be bad or you put it in up side down .check it so that you know .if that does not work i would drain the radiator .take off the lower hose and the top hose .then put a garden water hose in the top inlet of the radiator, turn the water on,check the flow coming out at the bottom out let. to make sure that radiator is not pluged .
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
If you think you have a vapor lock do this; jack the front of the car up in the air, take the rad cap off making sure it is full of coolant, start the engine and when the water starts to flow, add coolant until it will no longer take it and install the cap. This "burps" the air from the engine. another thing I do is drill a small hole in the thermostat to keep coolant flowing even though the t-stat is closed. Then air isn't allowed to be trapped. As the others stated; check the radiator cap, the thermostat, the hoses especially the lower one that needs a spring in it to keep it from collapsing. And make sure that the area around the radiator anf the adiator support is completely sealed so that air cannot go around the radiator; it must be forced to go thru it. I hope you find the source of your problem.
Bernie
Bernie
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Originally Posted by terry82
i would take out the thermostatand see what it does .the new thermostat could be bad or you put it in up side down .check it so that you know .if that does not work i would drain the radiator .take off the lower hose and the top hose .then put a garden water hose in the top inlet of the radiator, turn the water on,check the flow coming out at the bottom out let. to make sure that radiator is not pluged .
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 78
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From: Austin TX
82 Vette STILL overheating - Please help
The radiator cap has been replaced, I just forgot to put that on the list. And I do have an original shroud.
The thermostat is out and there is no difference.
All of this started when I replaced the mech. fan to an electric one. That did not work, and ever since then, I have had this overheating problem. Even with the Daytona front and the twin turbo hood – without any of the air dams, etc. I have replaced the Daytona front with the original. It still does the same – hence the help request.
I will try checking the timing and also raising the front of the car with the cap open to let any possible air out.
The thermostat is out and there is no difference.
All of this started when I replaced the mech. fan to an electric one. That did not work, and ever since then, I have had this overheating problem. Even with the Daytona front and the twin turbo hood – without any of the air dams, etc. I have replaced the Daytona front with the original. It still does the same – hence the help request.
I will try checking the timing and also raising the front of the car with the cap open to let any possible air out.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 3
I chased the same problem for a couple years and found out it was a bad intake manifold. After inspecting it I could find no flaws in it. Once I changed out the manifold the problem went away. I also am running a daytona bumper with turbo hood. FYI I am running a TPI engine.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 0
From: Madison Ms
Originally Posted by 82Powerhouse
The radiator cap has been replaced, I just forgot to put that on the list. And I do have an original shroud.
The thermostat is out and there is no difference.
All of this started when I replaced the mech. fan to an electric one. That did not work, and ever since then, I have had this overheating problem. Even with the Daytona front and the twin turbo hood – without any of the air dams, etc. I have replaced the Daytona front with the original. It still does the same – hence the help request.
I will try checking the timing and also raising the front of the car with the cap open to let any possible air out.
The thermostat is out and there is no difference.
All of this started when I replaced the mech. fan to an electric one. That did not work, and ever since then, I have had this overheating problem. Even with the Daytona front and the twin turbo hood – without any of the air dams, etc. I have replaced the Daytona front with the original. It still does the same – hence the help request.
I will try checking the timing and also raising the front of the car with the cap open to let any possible air out.
Also pull and check a couple of plugs.......really white means lean....and will cause overheating, especially at highway speeds.....been there.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
Whats telling the fan to turn on??? Hopefully not the ECM....it tells the stock electric fan to kick in north of 220...its only there as a secondary source of cooling.
Since you have replaced the fan with an electric how did you rig it to turn on at the appropriate time???
Jim
Since you have replaced the fan with an electric how did you rig it to turn on at the appropriate time???
Jim
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 78
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From: Austin TX
I have tried reversing the fan with the same lack of results. The auxillary fan is controlled by a Hayden relay (Hayden or Imperial) and I have it set to turn on at 90 degrees.
Eventually I plan on changing the intake anyway, maybe I should think about doing it sooner than later. It is not stock, it came with the car when I bought it.
I am hoping to have the time to work on it this weekend some. I have not had a chance to do it when I get home - it's too late and I live in an apartment.
Eventually I plan on changing the intake anyway, maybe I should think about doing it sooner than later. It is not stock, it came with the car when I bought it.
I am hoping to have the time to work on it this weekend some. I have not had a chance to do it when I get home - it's too late and I live in an apartment.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
I believe the correct thermostat for a 82 is a 195 stat used for the emission controls since the early 70`s for those smog engines. The radiator may not be able to recover fast enough with a low temp stat.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
Originally Posted by 82Powerhouse
All of this started when I replaced the mech. fan to an electric one. That did not work, and ever since then, I have had this overheating problem.