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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:00 PM
  #1  
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Default overheat culprit

I've been talking about my experience and thought that I blew a head gasket while cruising on the freeway. Here's the cause of it all.[IMG][/IMG]


[IMG][/IMG]


[IMG][/IMG]
So, I ended up this way.
This is the reason why I've been asking about the vortec adaptability.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:03 PM
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From the looks of it...it's kaput
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:08 PM
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It looks like the adjacent cylinder had a valve hitting the piston also. (Cam lift too big?)
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:13 PM
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i just installed a new cam in there and the lift if i remember right was not that much, probably 467, mid range cam. That was another question i was going to throw in, i have this vortec motor that's in pieces but not sure if i can install an aftermarket cam and use flat tappet lifters. any ideas???????
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:23 PM
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From this
[IMG][/IMG]


to this
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:24 PM
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Dude that really sucks.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:46 PM
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That's a bummer Rene' but from the looks of #3 cylinder you were probably due for an overhaul anyway.
Good luck
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:55 PM
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Time to build a bigger, faster, stronger one! (the "while I'm at it's").
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 12:02 AM
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Valve spring broke?
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 12:42 AM
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what does the cylinder wall look like? scored? maybe time for a new motor, 383??? 406 maybe??
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 12:44 AM
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walls are ok and so are the valve springs. i was cruising at 80 and suddenly lost power and thick white smoke was behind me.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg
That's a bummer Rene' but from the looks of #3 cylinder you were probably due for an overhaul anyway.
Good luck
Greg,
That's why I'm asking if I can use this vortec motor I have and install an aftermarket cam. The vortec uses roller lifters and I was thinking of going with an aftermarket cam and use flat tappet lifters. We first took out the passenger side head and pistons looked ok. So, i told my son that we were to just use the vortec heads and bolt it on. When we got to the driver's side, "that's it", I told him. It's either we build this motor and have it stroked or use the vortec.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 01:35 AM
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This is how she was 20 minutes before she decided to bid farewell. Hope the video works.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 81cali
i just installed a new cam in there and the lift if i remember right was not that much, probably 467, mid range cam. That was another question i was going to throw in, i have this vortec motor that's in pieces but not sure if i can install an aftermarket cam and use flat tappet lifters. any ideas???????
Yes you can take your old flat tap cam & flat tap lifters out of your old block & put them in a vortec block ... make sure you maintain the matches between lifters-lobes. If you use the vortec heads, you'll need either vortec self-guided rockers or install guideplates. If you use your old heads, use whatever rocker/guideplate you've been running. Vortecs came with roller cam & roller lifters ... you CANNOT mix roller cam w/ flat lifters or vice versa ... must install all roller or all flat. If you have the vortec heads, I would definately use them ... but do have a shop check them first to see if their valvetrain has enough clearance for your cam. Your old intake manifold will not fit the vortec heads. Someone else said in another thread ... it's true ... your old flywheel or flexplate will not fit vortec ... also, check to see if your vortec block has a "COMPLETE" mechanical fuel pump mounting boss with all bolt holes drilled & tapped and has a finished bore for the fuel pump rod to slide into ... many vortec blocks are not set up for mechanical fuel pump.

-edit- ... just looked at your broken intake valve ... little chance you'll be using your old heads.

Last edited by jackson; Jun 12, 2006 at 02:00 AM.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 12:06 PM
  #15  
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great input Jackson, thanks a lot!!! the roller cam and lifter set tend to run higher and the cam and lifters i have on the old motor are about 2 weeks old. should i replace all bearings as well (crank & rod) the motor has 28,000 miles. also, should i grind the valves or just clean the heads and drop it in?
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 02:08 PM
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Little JB weld and you should be good as new.

I had a piston explode on me and the head look like it took a bird shoot blast at point blank range.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 81cali
great input Jackson, thanks a lot!!! the roller cam and lifter set tend to run higher and the cam and lifters i have on the old motor are about 2 weeks old. should i replace all bearings as well (crank & rod) the motor has 28,000 miles. also, should i grind the valves or just clean the heads and drop it in?
Regarding your PM ... yes you can get a flexplate at local parts house that'll fit TH350 and your vortec ... simple. Have your vortec heads checked at local auto machine shop ... as I said above ... for clearance & any wear issues. If you've got the vortec roller setup ... use it but spring for a new/used roller cam to suit your needs ... you can reuse roller lifters with no problem. At 28K, all the vortec stuff should be in good shape ... unless it was oil-starved or run hot. Have the crank inspected & miked ... read the old bearings' wear patterns too ... that'll tell if you need bearings ... you can buy all the rod & main bearings in Clevite for under $50 total... Star Racing 1-800-625-9454. They also have a Q-jet to vortec intake for under $135. So far ... it is not clear to me just what came with the vortec???? ... complete heads? ... complete roller cam & lifters & spider etc?
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 11:50 PM
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Thanks a million jackson........
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 11:59 PM
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this is a motor that came off a 2000 tahoe w/28,000 mi. it was returned to the dealer who found out that #4 needed ringing. so instead, motor was taken out and replaced instead of doing the work since the truck was still under warranty. it's complete except for the intake, accesories, and the flexplate. Oh, it also didn't come with the oil filter housing. I plan to change all the rings, hone the bores, and change all bearings. the heads seem to look ok.
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