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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 11:46 AM
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Default Cleaning metal

A while back a forum member recommended soaking my seat rails in white vinegar to remove rust and old paint without damaging the metal. Would this work to clean my control arms and steering knuckle pieces? Is there a risk of it damaging the machined spindle surfaces? I want to get everything really clean and degreased so I can paint with something durable like POR-15. Might as well go the extra mile while the stuff is in pieces.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
A while back a forum member recommended soaking my seat rails in white vinegar to remove rust and old paint without damaging the metal. Would this work to clean my control arms and steering knuckle pieces? Is there a risk of it damaging the machined spindle surfaces? I want to get everything really clean and degreased so I can paint with something durable like POR-15. Might as well go the extra mile while the stuff is in pieces.
When I did what you're doing, I used electrolysis and they turned out great. I was then able to just fire up my Harbor Freight powder coating gun, pop them in the oven I found on a curb for 30 minutes, and put them on the car after they cooled.

Here are some links describing what electrolysis is:

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

All I needed was a plastic garbage can, some old sheet metal, a battery charger and some soap. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to take paint off like sandblasting can, but it's amazing how well it works on rust (and even grease to some extent).

Before:


Making rust soup:


After...all rust moved from control arms to donor metal, no elbow grease required. The black color is iron, which is rinsed and powder coated/painted right over:


powder coated and on the car:


I did this for the drive shaft, half shafts, steering knuckles...even my original jack. I wanted to do my frame this way, but I didn't have a spare swimming pool lying around...
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 01:02 PM
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I'm lucky; I have access to a media blast machine for most of my small & medium parts. If they are especially dirty I use a steam cleaner on them.
Bernie
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 01:32 PM
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I've got a media blast cabinet in my dad's garage, but the new compressor isn't hooked up yet, and the old one is dying.

Would something more agressive like muriatic acid be safe for the knuckle parts and seat tracks?
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rick1500
When I did what you're doing, I used electrolysis and they turned out great. I was then able to just fire up my Harbor Freight powder coating gun, pop them in the oven I found on a curb for 30 minutes, and put them on the car after they cooled.

Here are some links describing what electrolysis is:........
Thanks for the link info. Looks like an interesting method.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 01:37 PM
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POR 15 adheres to the rust, even if you blast it you'll have to flash rust it over night. To degrease the parts, put them in a dip tank and let soak and scrub.

Brake parts cleaner works great and will remove some paint...it leaves the surface without any detergents or oil so you can paint. My engine builder had me spray down my block once it was prepped to paint, to ensure no grease and to leave a clean surface.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 69427
Thanks for the link info. Looks like an interesting method.
Yeah, I highly recommend it--especially if media blasting isn't an option. Even now that I have a decent pressurized sandblaster, I think I would have still used electrolysis on those larger parts. I literally just soaked them overnight, wiped them down, and powder coated them. They went from looking like unearthed fossils to better-than-new in a day with no chemicals, scrubbing, or sand flying everywhere.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 02:46 PM
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In answer to your original question, vinegar should work very nicely to remove light, surface rust on these surfaces. I really like the idea of electrolysis though.
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Old Jun 16, 2006 | 10:43 PM
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One consideration is time. If you need it fast, you have to use more agressive techniques. Sand paper if real rusty, wire brush, liquid rust remover, etc. Muriatic acid will work, but be real careful and watch closely. Rinse and wash thourghly. Most rust removers use phospheric acid. The higher the content, the better they work. There are also rust converting chemicals. You remove all the big crud, the paint on the conversion stuff and it converts the rust to a hard, stable surface to paint.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by rick1500
I literally just soaked them overnight, wiped them down, and powder coated them. They went from looking like unearthed fossils to better-than-new in a day with no chemicals, scrubbing, or sand flying everywhere.
Rick, thanks for the information and excellent links! Your differential appears as it has been powder coated in your pic. Did you put the entire differential in the oven assembled, or in pieces and reassemble? It looks like your yokes and pinion are coated as well, was this difficult? It looks great, thanks for sharing the info!
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