I just got around to installing my 3 new Spal Fans. I bought one 2380 cfm 16" pusher fan for the front side; and, 2 650 cfm, 10" puller fans for the engine side. Total air flow should be over 3600cfm. The 2 10" fans go on at 190 degrees and the 16" fan starts at about 205 degrees.

The results:

Today was not a hot day, maybe 85 degrees. But I made a point to putts around in heavy traffic. Multiple light changes before crossing intersections, etc. About the hottest it got was 200 degrees, a couple times it hit the 205 mark then came shooting back down to 180 degrees as soon as the 16" fan kicked in. On the highway it ran at 160 degrees which is the thermostat temp rating. It didn't matter whether I was in 4th , 5th or 6th at highway speeds.

For background, I am running a 427, 12:1 comp, aluminum heads, MSD 6AL, Hooker side pipes with JCL spiral baffles, 3:08 gears, and ROD 6 speed. The radiator is the largest BeCool Aluminum I could fit with the stock mountings and connections, rated to 600 cid and 1000hp. No shroud whatsoever is used. No mechanical fan.

I think I will be changing the thermostat to a 180 degree unit, unless anyone can truly assure me that 160 degrees is not too cold to run. The fans are incredibly well balanced and smooth. I certainly can't hear them above the motor. The only way I can tell if they are on is by feeling the air flow with my hand. The pusher fan is very thin at 3.4" allowing the hood to fully open without hitting the fan motor like the previous Summit fan.

Bottom line is that I am very, very pleased. I'm not looking forward to 100+ degree days again, but it's nice to know that I'm ready when they return!

Chuck

p.s. Thanks Markus for the Spal suggestion! I'm pretty sure it was you that first posted about them.


[Modified by Chuck Harmon, 6:07 PM 8/29/2001]

 

Hi Chuck, do you have air on your Vette? I'm wondering if the pusher will fit with an AC condenser installed.

 

It sounds like that will work great for a fun low speed cruise through Pacific Grove next year. Of course while your down there, you may as well kick some tail at the LS vintage races. ;) :yesnod:
If I get too carried away with this chassis dyno stuff, I may just copy your fan set up to pick up a few Hp.

 

I have 2/80 air conditioning. 2 open windows @ 80mph :cool: Seriously though, the pusher fan won't work with a condenser in front of the radiator. As it is I have about 1/8" when I lift the hood to set it or release it. You could add a 16" and a 10" fan as pullers. There are many different sizes and flow rates for Spal fans. Check out http://www.slickcar.com They will show you drawings, measurements, flow and amperage specs, etc. You can still get about 3000+cfm. I have a 3 quart Moroso oil accumulator mounted at the bottom of my radiator on the engine side so I was not able to use the big fan on the engine side. This is probably not a problem for you. They really work. Make sure you get the little bracketed feet that go with them for mounting. $5 for 4. BeCool strongly recommends using an additional bracket that clamps from the top and bottom of radiator to mount the fan to, $75 for simple aluminum stampings. I bought them, but because of space issues unique to my setup, I couldn't use them. Such a deal I have for you or anyone else that would like them!

Chuck

 

Chuck I'm really sorry we didn't meet up at Sears Point. I need cooling . The open road racers in C-5's say 270+ at speed. When ever I see 240+ I slow down. Summit didn't have a Stewart stage 3. So I ordered one. I also went down on jetting to 82 rears and 73 fronts

 

there is about 5 inches between the radiator and the condensor on my 1980. I could not put a fan on the front of the condensor, as the hood would hit that. But I could put a puller at the back of the condensor, or a pusher in front of the radiator.

I am currently running the dual Flex-A-lite fans, but need some extra umpf.
In the 110+ heat of the Phoenix area, the little fans keep up just fine --- until I turn the A/C on. I am going to add a second puller fan for the condensor when I pull everything for my motor swap next month.

The radiator fans will kick on via temp sensor and the other will be A/C relay controlled.

 

gkull,

Your reply reminds me of what a cop told me a long time ago. He said there are many cars that can go faster than a squad car, but not for very long before they overheat. There is a reason cops can sit in a parking lot for hours eating donuts and drinking coffee on a hot, hot day in an air conditioned car. They have very good cooling systems :D

Chuck

 

BSeery,

I wouldn't have believed there would be so much room between the condensor and the radiator. If you use the nylon mounting ties, make sure you consider the extra weight strain on the part you are mounting to. Ratiators and condensors can be bent and rupture. How is your Flexlite fan mounted to the radiator, or is it mounted to the frame? The Spal fans are typically not reversible which is why they are so efficient. Like a real propeller, they are designed to spin only one way for maximum power. If you mount on radiator, get the pusher. If you mount on condensor, get a puller. I'd get the big 16" fan I got if you can. The medium fan is rated at 1600cfm for $120 and the 2360cfm unit is$150. How big is your alternator? Mine is a 55amp and doesn't seem to be over taxed.

The stronger mount would be using the stamped aluminum brackets that fit to the top and bottom of the radiator. I couldn't use them because they required and extra 3/8" of clearance that I just didn't have to open/shut the hood.

Chuck

 

yeah -- the seals between the radiator and the radiator core support are at least 2" thick, and the condensor sits in front of the core itself.
The flex-a-lites are mounted with the nylon ties, but the unit is not that heavy. It also fits exactly into the opening between the side tanks, to a MM to spare !!
The fans are not going anywhere, trust me, I could lift and carry the radiator around by the fans !!
I will get the largest puller that I can for the condensor, but will probably get a flex-a-lite or derale from Summit.
The stock alternator is a 70 ish amp unit, not too sure what it is putting out now.
With the A/C, fans, and headlights on, the dash gets really dim at idle. The volts drop down to the 11 range and when I turn on the turn signal, all of the electric gauges move in time with the clicks -- pretty funny acctually :D:D:D.
I am upgrading my alternator to a 100 AMP unit, and hope this helps. I would like to get a smaller alt. pulley to turn it more RPM's but can't find one.
I have heard of many people buying the expensive SPAL fan mounts and not being able to or not wanting to use them.