Hi, I need to attach my new #1 and #4 body mounts, seatbelt reinforcement, etc.

Are the stock rivets the way to go? is there something better ? should I also use an adheasive ? Has anyone found something better in 31 years ?

Thanks in advance for any input.

 

i used 3/16 ss pop rivets, on the fiberglass side a ss washer.

 

I work on new wide body aircraft (747's) and install hundreds of rivets a day, when I changed out my old rusted #4 mount cage's I couldn't buck the 2 aft most fastener locations, there isn't enough room, I drilled some close torlerance holes and installed hiloks, hiloks are better because there made from titanium, there probably hard for most people to find. Blind rivets (pop rivets) with washers will probably work but are a weaker fastener than a aluminum rivet.

 

I drilled them out to 1/4 " and used stainless 1/4" blind closed end rivits an a 1/4 stainless washer on both sides for backing.

I have BIG pneumatic over hydraulic pop rivit gun

 

stainless steel machine screws w/ nylocks. may not be as clean as rivets, but it's never going to rust on me and installation is a piece of cake. The space between the body and the reinforcement is filled with construction adhesive as well.
I used ss screws and nuts on my spare tub strap in place of the rivets too, I kinda like the look.

 

nice job!

 

That does look good. I'm not sure I have the space for nuts and bolts in the rocker channel. I was thinking construction adheasive too. thanks for the good idea.

 

Sounds like an interesting job. Thanks for the idea, Is Hy-lok a brand of rivets ? any idea where i can look at one ? I can't seem to remember where I parked my 747.....

 

Chandler,

Hi-Loks are an aerospace fastener that are typically available only from aerospace fastener vendors and can cost anywhere from a buck apiece to several hundred dollars each depending on size, availability, and application. Basically they are a steel or titanium threaded pin with a threaded collar on the other end; the collar has a hex-shaped end on it which breaks off at a predetermined torque, leaving no way to easily get the fastener apart once it's installed-WAY overkill for your application. I would (as have others) suggest using steel Home Depot (or whatever your hardware store of choice is) pop rivets.The steel ones are stronger both in shear and tension than the aluminum ones that the car came with, but not so aluminum pop rivets- they are VERY soft and would be pretty much useless in this application. Just MAKE SURE that you put a washer of the same diameter as the rivet on the backside of each rivet- fiberglass (especially 35 year old fiberglass) has zero shear strength and the rivets will pull right through the holes if you don't back them up with washers. That machine screw/ nylock job looked pretty good too....ps I've been building/fixing/bashing on airplanes for about 31 years now....

 

No there 31 cents a piece for the 1/4" when bought in bulk, free if you pick them up off the floor (and there all over the floor), I also used hex self locking nuts and torqued them to 70 inch pounds (per spec), I did not use pop off collars. These hex nuts are easier to remove than a standard nut/bolt because the interference hole grips the fastener shank and holds it in place when removing the nut, I did not have to use the allen in the pin to hold the fastener, I don't think I'll ever have to remove them.
Chandler, like birdsmith said this may be over kill but it is what is avalible to me and what I'm good at and you did ask if there was anything better .