Fuel cell in a c3 convertible?
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
Likes: 88
From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by supervette2
ahhh I see. Thats gonna be tough finding a good solid mouting solution. Are you trying to save weight with the smaller tank? I also dont mean to hi jack your thread but since i have my fuel tank out does yours have a rubber liner in it like mine does???
With the fuel cell that ain't gonna happen..
If I'll have to run 5+ gallons always in the tank, I'm adding a lot of weight.. It's not the tanks weight that I'm concerned with, it's the weight of too much fuel.. The stock gas tank isn't too heavy anyways..
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 1
From: Nederland Texas
Hey O,
I used the original tank. I took it out and had a sump welded into the rear lower portion with 2 outlets. I used a Y-block with 2 -10's into the Y-block from the sump. Then 1 -10 out of the Y-block to the Aeromotive pre-filter to the Aeromotive 1000 pump to another Aeromtive filter forward to the regulator.
You're right, the weight of the stock tank is negligible so why loose the capacity just to get guaranteed fuel delivery. Sumps can be made or bought through Jeg's or Summit. I wanted it to fit in a specific location so I had a Sheet Metal Shop fabricate and weld it on for $50. They also drilled the holes (act as baffles) before welding the sump on the tank.
I only had one problem...I wasn't there when he drilled the baffle holes before welding on the sump. He drilled them with the tank in the upside down position and the filings ended up inside the tank!!!! What a PITA to flush and clean all the metal shavings out!!!!!! It took 3 afternoons of cleaning!!!
-Patrick
PS. 427Hotrod has a similar setup.
I used the original tank. I took it out and had a sump welded into the rear lower portion with 2 outlets. I used a Y-block with 2 -10's into the Y-block from the sump. Then 1 -10 out of the Y-block to the Aeromotive pre-filter to the Aeromotive 1000 pump to another Aeromtive filter forward to the regulator.
You're right, the weight of the stock tank is negligible so why loose the capacity just to get guaranteed fuel delivery. Sumps can be made or bought through Jeg's or Summit. I wanted it to fit in a specific location so I had a Sheet Metal Shop fabricate and weld it on for $50. They also drilled the holes (act as baffles) before welding the sump on the tank.
I only had one problem...I wasn't there when he drilled the baffle holes before welding on the sump. He drilled them with the tank in the upside down position and the filings ended up inside the tank!!!! What a PITA to flush and clean all the metal shavings out!!!!!! It took 3 afternoons of cleaning!!!
-Patrick
PS. 427Hotrod has a similar setup.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
Likes: 88
From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by pef427
Hey O,
I used the original tank. I took it out and had a sump welded into the rear lower portion with 2 outlets. I used a Y-block with 2 -10's into the Y-block from the sump. Then 1 -10 out of the Y-block to the Aeromotive pre-filter to the Aeromotive 1000 pump to another Aeromtive filter forward to the regulator.
You're right, the weight of the stock tank is negligible so why loose the capacity just to get guaranteed fuel delivery. Sumps can be made or bought through Jeg's or Summit. I wanted it to fit in a specific location so I had a Sheet Metal Shop fabricate and weld it on for $50. They also drilled the holes (act as baffles) before welding the sump on the tank.
I only had one problem...I wasn't there when he drilled the baffle holes before welding on the sump. He drilled them with the tank in the upside down position and the filings ended up inside the tank!!!! What a PITA to flush and clean all the metal shavings out!!!!!! It took 3 afternoons of cleaning!!!
-Patrick
PS. 427Hotrod has a similar setup.
I used the original tank. I took it out and had a sump welded into the rear lower portion with 2 outlets. I used a Y-block with 2 -10's into the Y-block from the sump. Then 1 -10 out of the Y-block to the Aeromotive pre-filter to the Aeromotive 1000 pump to another Aeromtive filter forward to the regulator.
You're right, the weight of the stock tank is negligible so why loose the capacity just to get guaranteed fuel delivery. Sumps can be made or bought through Jeg's or Summit. I wanted it to fit in a specific location so I had a Sheet Metal Shop fabricate and weld it on for $50. They also drilled the holes (act as baffles) before welding the sump on the tank.
I only had one problem...I wasn't there when he drilled the baffle holes before welding on the sump. He drilled them with the tank in the upside down position and the filings ended up inside the tank!!!! What a PITA to flush and clean all the metal shavings out!!!!!! It took 3 afternoons of cleaning!!!
-Patrick
PS. 427Hotrod has a similar setup.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
You might be able to use the tank support member to mount your cell. It can be easily moved above the frame if too low as you say. If needed, you can easily make a bracket spacer to raise it above or below the frame with a couple pieces of box or channel. Take some measurments and check for fit. If your stock tank straps don't work, you can make your own from material available at Lowes. You are not too far from LKO Salvage located near Van Steel. Check the yard for readily available building material.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
If you buy the plastic type cells like jazz, summit..whatever, they come with straps. Surely you have the tools and the skills to drill and bolt that to the original crossmember? Then maybe add 2 straps that hold it to the rear crossmember also and it'll be rock solid.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
Likes: 88
From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
If you buy the plastic type cells like jazz, summit..whatever, they come with straps. Surely you have the tools and the skills to drill and bolt that to the original crossmember? Then maybe add 2 straps that hold it to the rear crossmember also and it'll be rock solid.
