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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 10:43 AM
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Default alu race bloks

hi, are the alu blocks for SB as strong as the best motown or little M race blks? what's the weight saving against steel? what's the best brand on your opinion? thanks/Giu
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 10:50 AM
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Don't know about strength but the Bill Mitchell Al small block is 100lbs lighter than cast iron.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 02:11 PM
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The factory cast iron blocks are around 20 pounds lighter then the
stronger world/dart iron aftermarket blocks. The aluminum version
world/dart will have a lower strength rating then there cast iron.
I think you would save around 90 pounds over a factory block and
close to 110 on a aftermarket block. For all the money an aluminum
block costs I don't think they are worth it for the amount of weight
savings.

Last edited by Little Mouse; Jun 26, 2006 at 02:17 PM.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 02:27 PM
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I just had a bad experience with a cast iron Motown block. The block costs about $2300. I had a crank problem and the block was nearly ruined.

I'm really considering have it completly fixed with an align bore and selling it. Aluminum is repairible. So even if aluminum cost over $4000 it's a bargain. If you waste just one cast iron block like I almost did.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Little Mouse
The factory cast iron blocks are around 20 pounds lighter then the
stronger world/dart iron aftermarket blocks. The aluminum version
world/dart will have a lower strength rating then there cast iron.
I think you would save around 90 pounds over a factory block and
close to 110 on a aftermarket block. For all the money an aluminum
block costs I don't think they are worth it for the amount of weight
savings.
well, i think 110 lbs weight saving on an aftermarket blk worth the expense IF the strength of the blk will keep together a SB of around 550/600 hp...
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 02:45 PM
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Sounds like you could buy two cast iron blocks for the price of one
aluminum block and have one for a spare. Gkull what would it add to
the cost of a $4000 aluminum block to repair it?? Are you going to
be able to line bore your block for the 2.65 crank ??

Last edited by Little Mouse; Jun 26, 2006 at 02:49 PM.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 02:46 PM
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If I was building one, I would propably start with Donovan block...

http://donovanengineering.com/Blocks/SmallBlock.html
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 02:48 PM
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Or if you want the best in old GEN design go with CN billet:

http://www.cnblocks.com/splaysbc.htm
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by groovyjay
Or if you want the best in old GEN design go with CN billet:

http://www.cnblocks.com/splaysbc.htm
good infos groovy, thanks
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by panic
good infos groovy, thanks
No worries! Why not go with new GEN LSx motor instead?
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 03:00 PM
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i love old generation engines...
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 03:00 PM
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Panic I would think an aftermaket aluminum block would handle that
power level, unless you were trying to run at that level for long
periods of time, then it would probably be better to have the cast iron block.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 03:11 PM
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Default Chevy copies ford and chrysler

The LS1 engines are built the right way for strength with a deep skirt
block the crank completly surrounded and cross bolted caps.
Kind of reminds me of the 1963 427 side oiler ford and 426 Hemi.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 03:22 PM
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If I were looking at aluminum blocks, I would seriously have to look at the LSx versions. These new generation engines make great power because of the new cylinder heads they have compared to the old 23* heads. Unless of course you plan on running less than 23*, then you need to compare the cost of valvetrain pieces compared to the new technology offerings
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 03:35 PM
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smokedtires thats another good point for the GEN 3 engine they use
15 degree valve angle
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 03:48 PM
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pardon my ignorancy but when you say New Generation engines you mean those fixed on latest camaros and C4/C5 corvettes?
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 03:56 PM
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yup camaros, C4/C5 vettes. If you do not want a computer to run
the fuel injection chevy make a carb/intake, and front mount Dist
for the new generation engine.
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 03:57 PM
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An aluminum block does not make the power a cast iron block makes, in a car as heavy as a Corvette an aluminum block is a waste of money until you have done EVERYTHING else to lighten your car. If you want POWER I have a FRESH 18* headed SB available I can no longer run (upwards of 700hp) comes with a custom built set of Corvette triple step headers.... as always E-MAIL DIRECT!! redvetracr@msn.com

ps: NO tire kickers and NO picture collectors...
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Old Jun 26, 2006 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by groovyjay
If I was building one, I would propably start with Donovan block...

http://donovanengineering.com/Blocks/SmallBlock.html
Over the years I've heard a lot of good about them.
redvetracr: How about a pic? Just kidding!!!!
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by litevette
Over the years I've heard a lot of good about them.
redvetracr: How about a pic? Just kidding!!!!
yea the Donovan block is the BOMB! Look at the treatment they give the valley area for oil runoff!
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