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Good info as your usual But how does one know which size to use in the rear of a C3 you show three sizes
Fairly easy to figure out. If you make a hard corner and the car winds up in the gaurd rail, try a different bar. I don't think the answer is plain and simple; more trial and error for what is trying to be accomplished.
Last edited by mandm1200; Jun 28, 2006 at 12:47 AM.
Fairly easy to figure out. If you make a hard corner and the car winds up in the gaurd rail, try a different bar. I don't think the answer is plain and simple; more trial and error for what is trying to be accomplished.
Hmmm. Don't think I'd like to test using your method. But, !!!
Why so much hate? I'm sure all of you remember all the formulas you learned in high school. I've got well over 20 years of formal education under my belt, but I wouldn't have known that formula off the top of my head simply because it's something that I haven't used since, well, high school. Oh dear, the education system has failed me!!!
From reading your symptoms there, I am somewhat concerned about the frame and maybe shims in the upper inner controll arms...make sure they are not loose, and check for frame rust, especially in the rear kickup area just before the wheels....may also check frame where the lower controll arms bolt to....broken welds.....
ball joints are a simple diagnosis also....
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by Me2
Why so much hate? I'm sure all of you remember all the formulas you learned in high school. I've got well over 20 years of formal education under my belt, but I wouldn't have known that formula off the top of my head simply because it's something that I haven't used since, well, high school. Oh dear, the education system has failed me!!!
Quit throwing water on this fire. This thread is amusing and a lot of us are rubber necking.
Why so much hate? I'm sure all of you remember all the formulas you learned in high school. I've got well over 20 years of formal education under my belt, but I wouldn't have known that formula off the top of my head simply because it's something that I haven't used since, well, high school. Oh dear, the education system has failed me!!!
From reading your symptoms there, I am somewhat concerned about the frame and maybe shims in the upper inner controll arms...make sure they are not loose, and check for frame rust, especially in the rear kickup area just before the wheels....may also check frame where the lower controll arms bolt to....broken welds.....
ball joints are a simple diagnosis also....
GENE
I've checked the frame and it's got nothing more than surface rust. As far as the control arms go, I do need to check those. What would it be there, just excessive play? Bent? Drives fine going straight at normal speed and acceleration. Thanks!
Good info as your usual But how does one know which size to use in the rear of a C3 you show three sizes
Rear bar size should be determined by what front bar you have. With these rear bars you should match up a new front bar with it as well. What works best together is
1" Front 5/8" Rear
1 1/8" Front 3/4" Rear
1 1/4" Front 7/8" Rear
Anything over an 1/18" Front & 3/4" Rear will be pretty stiff. Using unmatched front & rear bars can cause over or understeer depending on which bar sizes you are using.
Rear bar size should be determined by what front bar you have. With these rear bars you should match up a new front bar with it as well. What works best together is
1" Front 5/8" Rear
1 1/8" Front 3/4" Rear
1 1/4" Front 7/8" Rear
Anything over an 1/18" Front & 3/4" Rear will be pretty stiff. Using unmatched front & rear bars can cause over or understeer depending on which bar sizes you are using.
Thanks so much! That's the info I've been looking for.
Rear bar size should be determined by what front bar you have. With these rear bars you should match up a new front bar with it as well. What works best together is
1" Front 5/8" Rear
1 1/8" Front 3/4" Rear
1 1/4" Front 7/8" Rear
Anything over an 1/18" Front & 3/4" Rear will be pretty stiff. Using unmatched front & rear bars can cause over or understeer depending on which bar sizes you are using.
How would stiffer front springs effect these bar size reccomendations?
What are you referring to? It has absolutely nothing to do as a sway bar. The spring is bolted in the center and each side work seperately. One side will not affect the other side. I suppose a sway bar on the front 'would defeat the purpose' of making the front suspension independant. I normally refrain from posting when I see these type of comments. But this thread could heat up with some additional wood on the fire. I just can't believe some people have no idea on junior high scholol math or physics.
I may have been off base about the rear leaf acting as a sway bar but it still doesn't mean you need one on the rear.
And you have a sway bar on the front to aid in handling (keep the front end relatively level through corners) as it "ties" the two sides so when you turn left on a road course, the right side doesn't dive by itself. The left side reacts with it to keep the tire on the road so you can steer with both tires instead of just one with the other pretty much unloaded. Note, I did not say the two were "locked" together, just that one side reacts to what the other does.
Placing a bar on the rear would tend to make the IRS behave more like a solid axle....
Anyway, the OP is running his car at the strip, right? Most racers do not use a rear sway bar and have been known to unbolt the front bar to aid in front end lift and weight transfer anyway....
Most racers do not use a rear sway bar and have been known to unbolt the front bar to aid in front end lift and weight transfer anyway....
True, but if it'll remedy my problem, then I need to sacrafice a little at the strip in the name of safety. I do want to go as fast as possible, but not into the wall. But your pont of veiw is well taken.
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