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Jun 30, 2006 | 12:21 PM

langg

Thread Starter

Racer

Joined: Aug 2005

Posts: 456

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From: Forty Fort PA

Dumb question

When I put the BB together, I left out the drive shaft that goes between the oil pump and the distributor, planning to put it in from the top.:o

Will it go in, or do I need to drain the oil, pull the pan and pump and do it from underneath?

Jun 30, 2006 | 12:23 PM

SIXFOOTER

Le Mans Master

Joined: Jan 2006

Posts: 9,192

Likes: 27

From: Boca Raton Florida

I would think it would go in, depends on what is on the end to secure the connection. Got a pic of it?

Jun 30, 2006 | 12:25 PM

big_G

Le Mans Master

Joined: Jul 2005

Posts: 5,752

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From: Austin Texas

If it's like the small-block, it's gotta go in from the bottom....

Jun 30, 2006 | 12:29 PM

langg

Thread Starter

Racer

Joined: Aug 2005

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From: Forty Fort PA

No pic but it has a plastic collar on the pump end.

Jun 30, 2006 | 08:22 PM

ltlevil

Burning Brakes

Joined: Apr 2004

Posts: 847

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From: Des Allemands LA

Quote:

Originally Posted by big_G

If it's like the small-block, it's gotta go in from the bottom....

I hate to disagree, but as fellow enthusiasts, mechanichs, on-line associates/friends and obsecive-compulsive, **** retentitve car guys, we can agree to disagree. So there I have aggreed to disagree

Gotta figure out my politically correct skills. You can put the stock shaft you spoke of in place from the top side, but getting the plastic guard in place is the trick. There are some very affordable upgrades available that have the plastic sleeve replaced by a metal "collar" that is pinned to the shaft. This eliminates the probability of the shaft sliding off the oil pump input shaft. The problem with installing the shaft from the top is getting the thing lined up and slid through the bottom hole in the block while still lined up. This can be done many ways-long needle nose pliers, magnet etc... As stated above-the deal with doing this from the top with a stock rod is getting the plastic piece to get in place. However with the after market "metal collared" shaft it will also be in place so you're good to go. Either route you take, I would highly recommend the shaft with the pinned metal collar.

ltlevil

Jun 30, 2006 | 09:42 PM

noonie

Race Director

Joined: Mar 2006

Posts: 14,112

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From: Florida

I have also used a copper pipe sweat coupling in place of the plastic piece, when it was missing and I was in a hurry. Better thsn the plastic and real cheap

Jun 30, 2006 | 11:04 PM

desi

Melting Slicks

Joined: Sep 2002

Posts: 2,783

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From: Engineers do it better.

I believe the melling shaft M55A has metal sleeve that has a pin. Should be able to drop from the top...

Jun 30, 2006 | 11:41 PM

GOSFAST

Burning Brakes

Joined: Feb 2005

Posts: 894

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Oil Pump Drive Shaft

Quote:

Originally Posted by langg

When I put the BB together, I left out the drive shaft that goes between the oil pump and the distributor, planning to put it in from the top.:o

Will it go in, or do I need to drain the oil, pull the pan and pump and do it from underneath?

Drop the pan and pump, it's got to be done from below. Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Make sure you use the shaft that has the steel sleeve, not the plastic. The Melling part number is IS-77, this is the steel one. Also, if you were wise enough to use the 1 piece pan gasket, you'll be able to reuse it. If not, just order it and install it after the drive's in place. The Fel-Pro part number is OS30061T. This fits all '66 thru '90 BB's.