Aux cooling fans
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 96
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From: Independence Mo.
Hope you can figure out the fix. I am waiting to get my car out of the shop after I overheated it 4 weeks ago. It was running approx. 230 degree. The car started to loose power, and by the time it got to the shop number 8 piston had scuffed. I am getting ready to install a aux fan from a 1981, replacing the bottom air dam to see if it helps, a bottle of water wetter, and a new 180 degree If not, no a/c. Gary B.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,635
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From: Union Ontario
Originally Posted by Capt. Ron
Upper hose read 200's, thermo housing 215, bottom radiator hose 170's.
As an FYI, my Griffin Alum. rad has a 22 deg differential (179 upper hose to 157 lower hose, 205 at the temp sensor). This is with an undersize electric fan only. I run 60% water and 40% antifreeze with a bottle of water wetter. I run 195-198 at highway speeds with 3.70 gears, and just over 200 in town(bigger fan will solve that).
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 9
From: staten island ny
Originally Posted by MikeC
Your rad is working fine by the looks of the temperature differential. I would look at your thermostat it may not be openning at the right temp or may be sticking. Also feel to see if your lower rad hose has a spring in it.. if it collapses, it limits water flow to the engine, causing it to run hotter.
As an FYI, my Griffin Alum. rad has a 22 deg differential (179 upper hose to 157 lower hose, 205 at the temp sensor). This is with an undersize electric fan only. I run 60% water and 40% antifreeze with a bottle of water wetter. I run 195-198 at highway speeds with 3.70 gears, and just over 200 in town(bigger fan will solve that).
As an FYI, my Griffin Alum. rad has a 22 deg differential (179 upper hose to 157 lower hose, 205 at the temp sensor). This is with an undersize electric fan only. I run 60% water and 40% antifreeze with a bottle of water wetter. I run 195-198 at highway speeds with 3.70 gears, and just over 200 in town(bigger fan will solve that).
you run hotter in the city and cooler on the hi way as would be expected. Myself and Capt Ron as well as a few others run it just the opposite and thats what has us confused. I can run all day around twn with the a/c on and never go above @200. On the hiway at 65mph or under I'm fine also. It's that 70 mph mark that kills me.
ESU
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
ESU, it sounded like your radiator is working from what you said about the temp diff from top hose to bottom. You have plenty of air flow with the fan mods and air dam mods. It sounds to me like you either have flow restriction in the heads or you may need an oil cooler. You can get an inexpensive oil/tranny cooler from summit to give it a try, or for about $200 they have a oil+tranny cooler with a fan that will do the job. I like that one but ain't payin that, so I am going to make it for about 1/2 that price with all new parts.
Getting tranny temp would be a good idea, if your not locking up it would add a lot of heat to the tranny oil. There are some tranny temp gauges of different stripes on summit/jegs etc..
Getting tranny temp would be a good idea, if your not locking up it would add a lot of heat to the tranny oil. There are some tranny temp gauges of different stripes on summit/jegs etc..
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 9
From: staten island ny
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
ESU, it sounded like your radiator is working from what you said about the temp diff from top hose to bottom. You have plenty of air flow with the fan mods and air dam mods. It sounds to me like you either have flow restriction in the heads or you may need an oil cooler. You can get an inexpensive oil/tranny cooler from summit to give it a try, or for about $200 they have a oil+tranny cooler with a fan that will do the job. I like that one but ain't payin that, so I am going to make it for about 1/2 that price with all new parts.
Getting tranny temp would be a good idea, if your not locking up it would add a lot of heat to the tranny oil. There are some tranny temp gauges of different stripes on summit/jegs etc..
Getting tranny temp would be a good idea, if your not locking up it would add a lot of heat to the tranny oil. There are some tranny temp gauges of different stripes on summit/jegs etc..
I'm with you on air flow and water flow. With a brand new engine I cant believe there is a restriction in the heads. I'm also with you on the 200 for that fan/cooler combo, somebody may call me cheap but unless I'm 100% positive its gonna work then its out. Just like the 500 buck alum radiator. WHen I installed the new motor I didnt change the converter, just left in what was in so I have no idea if its working properly. Taking the tranny temp would probably be a good idea, whats one more gauge laying around. I actually have an extra analog water temp gauge laying around, I wonder if I can use that and if so where do I tap in??
ESU
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
This is one way to do it;
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...rdSearch#rstop
Not sure what I would use.
Cyberdine makes temp sending units you can hook to multiple points and use a switch to check them. I was looking at a temp differential gauge somewhere, has 2 temp sensors and reads the difference between points, was like $59. I want to use one to look at oil cooler and trans cooler temps and use a switch to select one or the other and use 1 gauge, might put it on the rad too and use a 3 way switch. Would go a long way to answering some questions.
I missed the part about the new engine on your post.
figure out which line on the tranny is OUT and put a T on it and oput the gauge there, the temp coming out of that point will tell you whats going on. If you have a IR Temp gun use it on the tranny pan after a run and on the oil filter.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...rdSearch#rstop
Not sure what I would use.
Cyberdine makes temp sending units you can hook to multiple points and use a switch to check them. I was looking at a temp differential gauge somewhere, has 2 temp sensors and reads the difference between points, was like $59. I want to use one to look at oil cooler and trans cooler temps and use a switch to select one or the other and use 1 gauge, might put it on the rad too and use a 3 way switch. Would go a long way to answering some questions.
I missed the part about the new engine on your post.
figure out which line on the tranny is OUT and put a T on it and oput the gauge there, the temp coming out of that point will tell you whats going on. If you have a IR Temp gun use it on the tranny pan after a run and on the oil filter.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 9
From: staten island ny
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
This is one way to do it;
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...rdSearch#rstop
Not sure what I would use.
Cyberdine makes temp sending units you can hook to multiple points and use a switch to check them. I was looking at a temp differential gauge somewhere, has 2 temp sensors and reads the difference between points, was like $59. I want to use one to look at oil cooler and trans cooler temps and use a switch to select one or the other and use 1 gauge, might put it on the rad too and use a 3 way switch. Would go a long way to answering some questions.
I missed the part about the new engine on your post.
figure out which line on the tranny is OUT and put a T on it and oput the gauge there, the temp coming out of that point will tell you whats going on. If you have a IR Temp gun use it on the tranny pan after a run and on the oil filter.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...rdSearch#rstop
Not sure what I would use.
Cyberdine makes temp sending units you can hook to multiple points and use a switch to check them. I was looking at a temp differential gauge somewhere, has 2 temp sensors and reads the difference between points, was like $59. I want to use one to look at oil cooler and trans cooler temps and use a switch to select one or the other and use 1 gauge, might put it on the rad too and use a 3 way switch. Would go a long way to answering some questions.
I missed the part about the new engine on your post.
figure out which line on the tranny is OUT and put a T on it and oput the gauge there, the temp coming out of that point will tell you whats going on. If you have a IR Temp gun use it on the tranny pan after a run and on the oil filter.
Happy 4th of July to all, ESU
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Instructor
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 146
Likes: 5
From: North Brunswick New Jersey
Been following these posts, as my 79 has the same symptoms. Just had the carb rebuilt and plan on installing trans cooler after checking/adjusting timing. I believe the proper way for trans line hookup to radiator has the return line to the lower fitting so air gets pushed out. Confirm?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: Kingsland Georgia
I don't know what my next step is, would do a tranny cooler but will have to research where to put it. Don't know about putting anything else up front. Somewhere on one of the other threads, I did read that someone did a tranny cooler, put it up front and he said it solved his problem. Maybe we can start a new "Tranny cooler" thread and get some ideas.
Happy 4th
Capt. Ron
Happy 4th
Capt. Ron
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 9
From: staten island ny
Originally Posted by Capt. Ron
I don't know what my next step is, would do a tranny cooler but will have to research where to put it. Don't know about putting anything else up front. Somewhere on one of the other threads, I did read that someone did a tranny cooler, put it up front and he said it solved his problem. Maybe we can start a new "Tranny cooler" thread and get some ideas.
Happy 4th
Capt. Ron
Happy 4th
Capt. Ron
ESU
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GEORGIA
Wow, I'd sure like to know if you can confirm that the tranny cooler solves the problem...keep us posted Cap't Ron, I too live in GA so we run our cars in similar climate temps. It looks as though there are several of us, based on this string, who can benefit if one of us gets this figured out! I am switching to synthetic oil to see if that helps at all.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
I think Bancock Dean installed his tranny cooler in the area behind the air dam laying horizontal covering the opening underneath. While I had an automatic I mounted a large tranny cooler in front of the A/C condensor and it did help. I finally installed a 5 speed manual and the overdrive, plus eliminating the 180 degree heater sitting in the tunnel, helped trmendously. It helps to get those rpm's down while cruising too!
Bernie
Bernie
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: Independence Mo.
If the problem is lack of water circulation above a certain rpm because of the fan clutch disengaging, what about running with out the clutch with a flex fan? I know you would be sacrificing some hp but it might be a good trade, and I know it would be a heck of a lot cheaper that replacing parts because of overheating. Gary B.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: Kingsland Georgia
I thought of that and bought a fan tower to eliminate the fan clutch all together but the one I bought had a different bolt pattern and I never got it installed. HUM!
Bye the way, I am newer to this forum and started a kinda "cross-thread" to this thread entitled Tranny coolers, where to put them. That may have not been the way to go as it maybe somwhat confusing.
Sorry, but if you have this problem or your interested check out that post also.
Capt. Ron
How do you work the spell check???????
Bye the way, I am newer to this forum and started a kinda "cross-thread" to this thread entitled Tranny coolers, where to put them. That may have not been the way to go as it maybe somwhat confusing.
Sorry, but if you have this problem or your interested check out that post also.
Capt. Ron
How do you work the spell check???????
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
The fan clutch has nothing to do with water circulation. The water pump turns via the belt on the pulley. The clutch is between the water pump and the fan. The clutch disengages the fan above 2800 rpm because you should be moving fast enough to force air thru the rad above that rpm; except that the slanted rad will allow air to flow over it rather than thru it without help. Completely sealing the area around the rad and rad support help force air thru the rad. Electric fans will also pull air thru the rad after the stock fan has stopped turning. There are so many things that are critical to our C3 cooling system that one left out will cause you to have a heating problem.
Bernie
Bernie
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 66
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From: Atlanta GEORGIA
I had a flex-a-lite flex fan on my c3 for a couple of years after th eoriginal clutch failed. I thought that I was buying newer technology and it would cool better. It awas noisey as hell and I really am glad its gone !
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: Kingsland Georgia
Originally Posted by ThunderMaker
I had a flex-a-lite flex fan on my c3 for a couple of years after th eoriginal clutch failed. I thought that I was buying newer technology and it would cool better. It awas noisey as hell and I really am glad its gone !
Had to get out of the pool, had to pee.
Happy 4th
Capt. Ron