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I have my car on jacks...wheels off so I can get to the bleeder screws. The Motive bleeder is the pump kind...no external air pressure needed. It comes with instructions. Make sure you use the proper sequence.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
i do not put brake fluid in mine ....just air and then i take out a measured amount of fluid from the brakes....then undo it and fill up the MC and do it again....i also use 2 medium size bar clamps and then when i'm done i wipe down the rubber side of the lid with rubbing alcohol
this way there is no mess...it may be a little longer process but not messy at all
I have my car on jacks...wheels off so I can get to the bleeder screws. The Motive bleeder is the pump kind...no external air pressure needed. It comes with instructions. Make sure you use the proper sequence.
I will try it this way.
I suppose proper sequence is: LR - RR, LF - RF.
And inner bleeder first, of the two in the rear calipers?
I try to keep it at 10 psig. If it creeps up to I don't worry as long as it stays below 20....but I really try to pump it up to 10 and then let it go down from there before I pump it up again.
I can do the front wheels without lifting the car, but on the rear it's just easier to lift the back and remove both wheels since there are a couple of bleeder screws back there.
While it takes a bit longer, it's easier for me to put all four corners on jackstands and take the wheels off. I can walk around the car and bleed each brake twice (just to be certain.) Plus, I can check everything else out at the corners.
I will try it this way.
I suppose proper sequence is: LR - RR, LF - RF.
And inner bleeder first, of the two in the rear calipers?
thanx o - o - o - o - o - o - o -
For cars without ABS, I would start with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder and end with the closest one: RR, LR, RF, LF.
By not putting fluid in teh Motive bleeder tank, you won't have to worry ab out fluid spilling when you remove the lid to the MC reservoir. Just pump the bleeder to 5-10 psi and open a bleed screw to see if that is enough to get fluid to run out. Keep a close eye on the reservoir; you don't want to run out of fluid!!
Even with the pressure bleeder, run a hose from the bleed screw to a jar that has some fluid in it and make sure the hose is below the level of fluid. That will reduce the chances of air being drawn back into the lines.
well i have all new calipers, rotors, ss lines and master cylinder on the car and just bought a new power bleeder and i am getting ready to bleed the brakes using the LR RR LF RF technique and will post results as soon as i am done
I've done mine (1977) beside the road, using a rubber hose, soda bottle & a 5/16 wrench. Turn the front wheels for better access. Have hepler touch the pedal (closes transfer port in master) you open the bleeder, helper press slowly to floor, you close bleeder. (requires helper with comunication skills) LOL
Thanks for all the advice and tips on brakes. I had a bad caliper the culprit. Replaced, and followed the bleeding order with a Harbour Freight bleeding pump (wife wouldn't work). Plan to build a pressure bleeder before next brake work. Will stop now! Thanks everyone, there is no book that will take the place of someone who has done it!
well i bleed my brakes but still had some play in the peddle so i took off the brake booster and as soon as i got it off it fell apart so it looks like i have to go to the local autoparts store and order a new one tomorrow as soon as i get home from work. oh well you win some you loose some. im just glad that the car runs now so im not letting the little things bother me anymore plus it gives me time to adjust some of my suspension parts while it is back on jackstands.