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When I took the doors of my '68, the pins were so freaking long that they were hitting the front clip and busting up the paint . When bubba put the pins in the last time the doors were off, he shaved the head a little to make for more clearance, but it doesn't help. When I ran into this on the first door, I went ahead and unbolted the whole hinge from the other side. I have the replacement pins and bushings ready to install. How in the hell do you get the pins back in without damaging the body? Do I go ahead and pull the other hinge, install the pin, bolt it to the jam and then hang the door?
Thanks!
SP
Look at those hinges real well. There is a stop on them that keeps the door from opening too far and damaging the front clip. Had to weld a small piece on mine to fix them.
I think I may not have been clear on my description of the problem. What I am talking about is when you drive the pin out of the hinge to take off the door or to just replace the bushing. The pins are so long that they hit the body before they come out of the hinge.
Make sense?
Ooooh, I see. If I had my car at home I'd have a look. I don't recall a problem there on mine. I did have my doors off when I did the paint. Sorry I can't help
That's normal. The standard fix is to grind one side of the head flat so that it will clear the fender. The hinge wasn't designed to be disassembled on the car.
Aparantly the front clip is not aligned exactly where it should be because there is no way to avoid tearing up the fender when putting the pin back in with the hinge mounted to the jam. I'm sure it's going to be a major pain when trying to line to doors back up. Does anyone have a secret or good procedure to line them up easily? I did scrape the jam and inner door before I took them off.
The best way I have found is to drill a small hole through the hinge into the backing plate and tap that for 1/4-20 threads. When reinstalling it can only be mounted in on position.
You will be left with a 1/4 inch hole in each hinge if tha is acceptable, not for the ncrs crowd, but foolproof.
I had the same problem on my '69. The hinge pin shaved heads would not clear -Oh so close! Its just made (or put together) that way - so I had the doors removed. I knew I wouldn't be able to do it myself, so I took it to a shop. If you can get some help, mark around both hinges (on the door and the body) so you know where to replace it. If you have a floor jack (or two) put some padding on them and use them to hold the weight of the door while you remove it and a couple of sober friends are holding it upright. Roll it out, replace the bushings and pins then roll it right back and bolt in place.
I had the same problem on my '69. The hinge pin shaved heads would not clear -Oh so close! Its just made (or put together) that way - so I had the doors removed. I knew I wouldn't be able to do it myself, so I took it to a shop. If you can get some help, mark around both hinges (on the door and the body) so you know where to replace it. If you have a floor jack (or two) put some padding on them and use them to hold the weight of the door while you remove it and a couple of sober friends are holding it upright. Roll it out, replace the bushings and pins then roll it right back and bolt in place.
Thanks - that sounds like the best plan. I removed the doors already (by myself) using a floor jack and a roll around mechanics seat. I will definately need a hand putting them back on.
Evidently, on some cars, you can grind a flat on the head of the pin and snake it in. Not on my 69. You're doing exactly as I did. While you have the doors off, check out the hinges real good. They can crack or bend over the years. I added a spacer to the bar that keeps the door from hitting the hinge. Also found one that was cracked, and would have been a problem in the near future.
Originally Posted by sperkins
Thanks - that sounds like the best plan. I removed the doors already (by myself) using a floor jack and a roll around mechanics seat. I will definately need a hand putting them back on.
The best way I have found is to drill a small hole through the hinge into the backing plate and tap that for 1/4-20 threads. When reinstalling it can only be mounted in on position.
You will be left with a 1/4 inch hole in each hinge if tha is acceptable, not for the ncrs crowd, but foolproof.
So is it the Forum's concensus that the entire hinge assembly will have to be removed from the pillar to replace the pins? I haven't been able to find any "how to" info on the web.