C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 12:12 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mandm1200
I don't see how you could bolt the engine and auto tranny together if the converter is not engaged to the pump. The converter would be 3/4" forward. The flex plate would contact the conveter and not allow the engine to bolt up to tranny. Maybe thing are different than my situation. I thought I had the converter installed correctly. Dropped the engine in the car but could not get the engine to slip into the dowels on the transmission. Lifted the engine out since I was not comfortable with the engine above my head hanging on a chain and hydralic jack designed and built in China. Pulled off the converter and put it back in. Noticed that it went in much further. After that the engine bolted up fine.

I dumped fluid into my converter prior to installing it. I had my pan off as well. I believe it took about about 6 more quarts to get it to the proper level after firing up the engine. I assume the poster bolted the converter to the flex plate.

i had the same thing happen this past week when i was installing my engine. i went to put the engine in but it wouldnt get close enough to the transmission to bolt the two together so i pulled it back out and sure enough i didnt have to converter put on all the way so i just spun it and pushed till it slipped on all the way. after i got it on all the way the engine bolted up just fine. i cant see how you could have the engine bolted up without having the converter on all the way like it is suppose to be
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 09:33 AM
  #22  
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From: GA "When I grow up, I'm gonna get a Trans Am and run from the cops". Direct quote from my 4yo son.
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[QUOTE=mandm1200]I don't see how you could bolt the engine and auto tranny together if the converter is not engaged to the pump. The converter would be 3/4" forward. The flex plate would contact the conveter and not allow the engine to bolt up to tranny. Maybe thing are different than my situation. I thought I had the converter installed correctly. Dropped the engine in the car but could not get the engine to slip into the dowels on the transmission. Lifted the engine out since I was not comfortable with the engine above my head hanging on a chain and hydralic jack designed and built in China. Pulled off the converter and put it back in. Noticed that it went in much further. After that the engine bolted up fine.

I dumped fluid into my converter prior to installing it. I had my pan off as well. I believe it took about about 6 more quarts to get it to the proper level after firing up the engine. I assume the poster bolted the converter to the flex plate.[/QUOTE That is my take on it too. I engaged the converter turned it and it engaged again and went all the way in the trans. I had to pull the converter back towards the flexplate to bolt it up. So I was like yep it's fully engaged. However, the converter is the only thing that changed with the trans since I didn't pull it. I unbolted the converter from the plate yesterday afternoon and tried to get it to engage further with no luck. Pulled it back to the plate fired it up and nothing. It's got plenty of fluid and I actually got to the point of overfill hoping that was the problem. I feel fairly certain at this point I fouled up engaging it. Hey though, my new gmpp 350/330 motor runs great!! Too bad it won't go down the road under its own power!!
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 10:11 AM
  #23  
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Below is a chart that shows how to measure for proper depth clearances. Please check for proper clearances. Failure to do so can and will cause damage to the transmission and/or torque converter. Take measurement "A" shown in Figure 1. The correct method of measuring "A" is shown in Figure 2. Now take measurement "B’ on the engine as shown in Figure 1. This is the distance between the engine block mating surface and the converter mount mating surface on the flywheel or flexplate. Compare the two measurements that you have taken. "A" must be greater than "B". If "A" is not greater than "B", converter is not installed properly. Pull converter off slightly, then push it on again, rotating it at the same time. Continue to do this until you feel the converter move inward and stop at proper engagement. Repeat measurement "A" and compare it again with "B". "A" must be greater than "B". Do not proceed further until you have installed the converter properly.

I really hope you didn't shear off the ears from the pump. I hate to say it, but it looks like the next step is going to be removing the trans all together.
BTW - I have an "extra" toque converter if you need one. A buddy of mine gave it to me several weeks ago. He said it worked fine!

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here's some more good info:

INSTALLATION OF A TORQUE CONVERTER

1. Always lubricate the converter hub and pilot. It is recommended to use a new drive plate. It is imperative to replace the drive plate if there is any evidence of bending, cracking, or other imperfection.

2. Fit the converter to the engine. Look at the fit, checking for excessive wear on the crankshaft area. Remove. Fill the converter with as much transmission fluid as possible.

3. Assemble the converter onto the transmission. Rotate the converter. On most applications you will feel it drop into place. Continue to rotate. A second drop will occur. You must be certain that the converter has been turned more than one full revolution to insure correct positioning on the stator/input/turbine shaft.

4. Install the bolts that attach the transmission assembly onto the engine. Then tighten the converter drive plate bolts. (Improper technique would allow the drive plate bolt tightening to draw the converter into place. This often mounts the converter ears on top of the pump gears, causing premature failure.) Install the transmission and rotate the converter to ensure proper alignment.

5. Some applications will not allow the above method of installation. In these instances, assemble the converter onto the transmission. Rotate the converter until it has dropped into place. When you have good tang engagement, mark the converter at the 12 o'clock position. Remove the converter without rotating. Mount the converter to the engine flywheel. Before installing the transmission, position the converter so that the mark is once again showing at 12 o'clock. Now bolt the transmission to the engine. This is not a foolproof method. It takes careful handling to reduce the chances of improper engagement.

Last edited by sperkins; Jul 10, 2006 at 10:13 AM.
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 10:23 AM
  #24  
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From: GA "When I grow up, I'm gonna get a Trans Am and run from the cops". Direct quote from my 4yo son.
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Yep Scott, I've come to the conclusion that I will soon be pulling the trans. It sucks but that's life. Dang thing leaked fluid anyway!!
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 06:21 PM
  #25  
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Probaly is the front pump. i damaged one years ago swapping an engine in another make of car
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Old Jul 10, 2006 | 09:31 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by windsoreight
You can bolt it up without the converter fully engaged. However you will damage the pump. That would be my guess. That is why the no go.
that was my first thought. if it was not in place when the bellhousing was tightened it will damage the front pump.
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 08:47 AM
  #27  
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 09:12 AM
  #28  
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Default Same thing happened to me.

Originally Posted by LIQUIDDRAGON
i had the same thing happen this past week when i was installing my engine. i went to put the engine in but it wouldnt get close enough to the transmission to bolt the two together so i pulled it back out and sure enough i didnt have to converter put on all the way so i just spun it and pushed till it slipped on all the way. after i got it on all the way the engine bolted up just fine. i cant see how you could have the engine bolted up without having the converter on all the way like it is suppose to be


When I swapped my engine and installed a higher converter I did not have the converter engaged and there was no possible way the two (engine to tranny) would meet. I also agree on drinking after **** like that happens, been there and did alot of that during my resto.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 08:57 PM
  #29  
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Any good news?
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 09:22 PM
  #30  
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i had the same problem with wheels not turning. it took a **** ton of fluid. I would try again. it should click three tims when it slides on properly. if you look into the trans shaft you can see the keyway for the pump.
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