JOHN, I JUST got the female plug from ford. its a common part part number 1u2z14s411ada wire assembly 15.58 no wiring diagram obviously one is ground one is slow and the third shorted to the second should be high. i was told that alot of these fans have been modified to only have the high speed which is the case with mine. im off to radioshack to get the diodes and will wire tonight.

 

I definately want the high/low functionality. Why pull all that current if you don't need to?

 

i agree that multiple speeds on demand automatically would be nice but in miami i use the air conditioning 100% of the time and ill be very suprised if even this wind tunnel of a fan keeps the temp at the thermostat level. so im just gona run a relay off of acc

 

I know you married guys have seen it before. But, for the benifit of the single guys here (who may be about to buy a new radiator fan due to this thread), this is the look you get when you tell your girl you just spent $800 for a radiator fan, fan controller, wiring harness, a/c hoses, condenser coil, and alternator--and now we don't have the money to go to the beach this weekend.

The only way to get rid of that look is a small present--and a trip to the beach this weekend.

Yep, I got chewed out today because of the Vette--though this time I got it on film (sort-a-speak).

I can always get a new girl. but I'm keeping my C3 forever.

 

send her down to miami . ill put a smile on her face ( i live minutes away from the beach) and now my c3 runs cool and the ac gets fridgid. ill refrain from headlight inferences. i followed the wiring diagram earlier in this thread. i actually went to radio shack and they actually had both diodes! i found a 14 guage hot accessory wire over by the ac that goes on with the ignition key and used that to switch the relay. i went through a 40 amp breaker, mounted it on the fenderwall and ran that straight to the starter motor hot. i ran the ground to the rear bolt on the alternator that has several 14 guage wires already. the relay is a bosch 75 amp and boy does it click loud. i paid 200 for the fan and 35 for the relay and less than 10 more for wire and connectors. i left a long loop for the grond that switches the relay incase it gets too cold (doubtful) and into this loop i can put either a manual switch or thermostat switch. corvette challange at moroso look out here i come.

 

I did that on my F-150 but used a fan from a crown vic police unit. it flows as good as the Mark VIII fan does and can be found used everywhere. I used a Hayden universal fan controller from Autozone. the controller was only like $15.00. I am a Ford tech and can get you any wiring diagrams needed for the Mark VIII fan

 

well my fan will be sent out on Fri Morning my relay is getting sent out today and radio shack is about 6 blocks away so hopefully by next weekend Ill be in the big cfm fan club also. whish me luck and Ill keep ya 's posted

 

I'm from Miami--a native. Lived 22 years off Old Cutler Rd and Sw 102st. I moved from there to the Keys (after 8 years in the service), and now I'm living Raleigh for the moment. I am heading back to the Keys in a year or two. So, I need this fan. Definitely. I can't wait till it arrives.

 

funny im in mirimar, office in aventura (n.miami beach) and house in key largo. there is alot of organized vettism down here. look foward to meeting you when you move back to paradise. matthew

 

PhotoVette1,
I am very interested in the mark VIII fan too. I called a local alternator shop to see what size alt. I would need to safely run this fan and other electrical components and the guy could not believe it is pulling 42 amps. Did you verify the amp loads with Ford or some other reputable source? Not that I doubt you, I just want to size everything correctly .
Thanks, Bernie

 

ttt

 

i still need guidance on how to post pics, this way is a pita but here is the mark VIII installed. i show the relay, circuit breaker and fan. just for fun i shot where i mounted the msd box. i took it out tonight and beat on it with the ac. it certainly didnt run hot but the jury isnt in yet as it was cloudy and only 83 degrees. lets see how it does in 95 at 1pm in the fla sun.

 

Here: I made it easier to see... Great Install Job!

 

You need one of these though (alway something more to buy)-->

 

Here's what I based it on:

http://www.dccontrol.com/

Selecting the correct fan is as important as deciding how that fan is controlled. Generally the OEM fans are of the best design and quality, but there are a number of parameters that should be looked at when choosing a fan. Use the highest blade diameter possible, all things being equal, an 18" diameter fan will outflow a 16" fan by nearly 20%, moreover, a larger radiator surface area is covered. Secondly, a high peak to average motor current indicates a high efficiency motor, a motor with a 3:1 peak to average current ratio will consume 1/3 less current than one with a 2:1 ratio for the same horsepower output. And finally, a 50% blade to open area ratio provides the highest flow rate per horsepower, and both the high peak to average current motor and the high blade to open air ratio blade provide higher backpressure performance. . The table below will allow you to determine if what you are buying provides the airflow that a given manufacturer claims. Note that a less than 50% blade to open air ratio, as well as a non-optimum blade design will flow less than the number given. Simply enter the data into the red boxes below to indicate the calculated cfm. A mathematical analysis is presented below the spreadsheet.

Hardware




Nomenclature:

Vin: Input voltage

Iin: Average input current

Ipeak/Irun: Peak to average current (most oems:3 or 4, most aftermarket 2, Ramchargers 5)

Fan D: Fan diameter

Motor D : Motor diameter





Compressible Fluid Flow of an Electric Cooling Fan

Brian L. Baskin

Delta Current Control

All Rights Reserved



The Work of Kinetic Energy

The work output of a fan, neglecting turbulence losses is characterized by the equation:

W = ½mv2 equation 1.0

Where W represents the work accomplished in joules, m represents the total mass of the liquid or gas accelerated in kilograms, and v represents the change in velocity of the gas in meters per second. The power consumed is represented by the first derivative of work with respect to time and is shown below:

P = (½mv2)/t equation 2.0

P = (½(m/t)v2) equation 2.1

Where P represents the power needed to do an amount of work in joules per second (watt) and t represents time in seconds.

The mass can be represented as volume if the density of the material is known. The density of atmospheric gas, primarily nitrogen, oxygen, and argon is equal to one cubic meter per kilogram or 35.31 cubic feet per kilogram. One cfm then equals 1/2119 cubic meters per second or 1/2119 kilograms per second.

The terminal velocity is a product of cfm and outlet area, the output area of a fan is characterized by the equation:

A = (1/39.37)2(p D2/4) = D2/1974 equation 3.0

Where A represents the output area in square meters and D represents the total blade diameter in inches.

Terminal velocity can then be represented by volume in cubic meters per second divided by the area and the equation:

v = (cfm/2119)/(D2/1974) = .932*cfm/D2 equation 4.0

The work over time is then represented in imperial units by the equation:

P = ½(cfm/2119)(.932*cfm/D2)2 equation 5.0

cfm = (4883* P*D4)1/3

Keep in mind that this represents an ideal fan without turbulence and with uniform velocity.



Motor Efficiency

Unfortunately, not all of the power a motor receives is transformed into work. Resistive, magnetic, and frictional losses all serve to lower the efficiency of a motor.

Both magnetic and resistive losses can be represented as a single bulk resistance in series with the load.

The ratio of bulk resistance to total series resistance can be found by comparing the running current to the locked-rotor current.

RB/RT = IR/IP equation 6.0

RB = (IR/IP)RT equation 6.1

The ratio of load resistance to total series resistance is then the difference between the total series resistance and the bulk resistance.

RL = RT(1-IR/IP) equation 7.0

The ratio of bulk resistance to load resistance is then:

RB/RL = (IR/IP)/(1-IR/IP) equation 8.0

RB = RL(IR/IP)/(1-IR/IP) equation 8.1

RB = RLIR/(IP -IR) equation 8.2

The ratio of Voltage across the load to the total voltage is proportional to the load resistance divided by the total resistance and is represented by the equation:

VL/VT = (1-IR/IP) equation 9.0

The power received by the load is represented by the equation below:

PL = (Vin)(1-IR/IP)(IT) equation 10.0

Frictional losses, proportional to rpm are represented by the equation:

PF = k(rpm/rpmmx) equation 11.0

Where k is a friction constant. Because bulk to total resistance is dependant on the same rpm to rpm max ratio, equation 11.0 can be represented by:

PF = k(1-IR/IP) equation 11.1

The total cfm is then:

cfm = (4883* (Vin)(1-IR/IP)(IT)(1- k(1-IR/IP))*D4)1/3

 

PhotoVette1,
Thank you for your information. Again, this is something that I want to do but am lacking the electrical expertise to make intelligent choices in hardware to do it correctly. I am satisfied that the Mark VIII fan will be the best solution for me. I currently have a 61 amp alt. I am also ready to upgrade my electrical system and install relays for all my electrical components. Could you list the items you are going to use to install your fan and the correct size alt. I will need to furnish the amps required. Your help will be greatly appreciated. I see some of the items you have recommended but I want to make sure I get everything needed to do it right the first time! Thanks again for this thread and your help.
Bernie

 

ttt

 

ttt Keeping it alive for others too!
Bernie

 

very cool, never seen those before, i need a couple, thanx

 

Ok I ordered my fan ,relay,circuit breaker, circuit breaker cover, wire ends,
wire ,ect... all shoud arive on the 18th so Ill keep ya's posted also (btw I allready have a 140 amp alt)