One more quick Quadrajet question..sorry
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Ok
Just for kicks I filled the float bowl with gasoline
It stayed up to about 3 1/8" for few seconds then it drained out on to the shop rag I had the carb sitting on
Is this normal?
Thanks again
Just for kicks I filled the float bowl with gasoline
It stayed up to about 3 1/8" for few seconds then it drained out on to the shop rag I had the carb sitting on
Is this normal?
Thanks again
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Thanks Big
One more problem
When I got this carb I threw it on and it ran, lousy but it ran
Obviously it was getting fuel
After pulling the air horn to see what jets/rods were installed, I re-assembled it.
Now the problem is ...I cannot get the hanger from the needle to stay on the float
I set it up, it seems ok, but when I set the wire clip in place ..(the enlongated curved c shaped wire that goes under the phonolic cover).. it pushes the float forward which causes the wire hanger on the needle to slide backward off the end of the float.
I have tried many different needles/seats and floats and I come up with the same problem.
I could really use some help.
If any of you think Pics would help I will gladly get the camera out
Thanks again for all your support
Bob
One more problem
When I got this carb I threw it on and it ran, lousy but it ran
Obviously it was getting fuel
After pulling the air horn to see what jets/rods were installed, I re-assembled it.
Now the problem is ...I cannot get the hanger from the needle to stay on the float
I set it up, it seems ok, but when I set the wire clip in place ..(the enlongated curved c shaped wire that goes under the phonolic cover).. it pushes the float forward which causes the wire hanger on the needle to slide backward off the end of the float.
I have tried many different needles/seats and floats and I come up with the same problem.
I could really use some help.
If any of you think Pics would help I will gladly get the camera out
Thanks again for all your support
Bob
Last edited by Bob Onit; Jul 16, 2006 at 12:49 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 4
St. Jude Donor '03,'11
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
I set it up, it seems ok, but when I set the wire clip in place ..(the enlongated curved c shaped wire that goes under the phonolic cover).. it pushes the float forward which causes the wire hanger on the needle to slide backward off the end of the float.
Sounds like that 10 dollar carb is getting expensive.
Last edited by turtlevette; Jul 16, 2006 at 12:36 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by turtlevette
sounds like you have some parts mismatched. The D clip should be straight up and down and forced all the way down in its seat.
Sounds like that 10 dollar carb is getting expensive.
Sounds like that 10 dollar carb is getting expensive.
Is the D clip the part that goes over the fulcrum and under the phonolic hold down?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 4
St. Jude Donor '03,'11
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
Is the D clip the part that goes over the fulcrum and under the phonolic hold down?
Maybe if you took some picts we can see if you got it put together correctly.
That little tiny tiny clip that goes around the needle goes over the end of the arm opposite the float. That part is a dunsel in my opinion. Don't think you really need it. The pressure of the gas from the pump is enough to lift the needle off the seat. Experts tell me if i'm full of sheit.
Last edited by turtlevette; Jul 16, 2006 at 02:25 PM.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 477
Likes: 43
From: Millbrae California
some of the aftermarket needle and seat pull clips are less than high quailty so you can run without it or use the one off your old needle. if you have enough problems i can mail you a good clip, let me know. what is the # on the top of the float you are using? what is the float level you are using?
henry @ oles
henry @ oles
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by turtlevette
Mine goes through the metal arm. There are holes it passes right through.
I forgot the D clip goes THROUGH the hole in the arm, I had it resting on top of the float arm
I was trying to put the Phonolic cover over the the arm in the slots AFTER I installed the needle and float.......
Do I win the Dullard of the week award?
Thanks very much Turtle
Last edited by Bob Onit; Jul 17, 2006 at 05:28 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 4
St. Jude Donor '03,'11
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
Thanks very much Turtle
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by turtlevette
no problem. Make sure the curved end of the D rod is not bent down. You may have bent it when you put things together that way. The curved end should protrude just the tiniest bit above the carb body when fully seated. The top cover of the carb actually holds it down so you don't want it loose or the carb will flood. There will be just slight tension on the D clip when the top is bolted down to firmly hold the flat portion of the clip in its seat. The gasket goes over the whole mess and is the last thing you put on. You have to make sure the gasket doesn't interfere with the power valve assy. Check to see it moves freely up and down before you put the top cover on. It can be a challenge to hold down the acclerator pump rod and power valve at the same time while making sure the top goes on straight. I try to stake the phenolic ring on the power valve just a little so it will hold itself in place.
All that is fine
I just took it out for a ride and here are the results.
Idle is smooth@ 750 although It idles best and with the most vacuum with the idle screws turned out only 1 turn.
My other QJ's are around 3 1/2 turns out
They all have the thin taper idle screws.
Cruise is very smooth and responsive
The secondary circuit isnt nearly as good as the other 2 QJ's I have... It seems as if theyre not opening soon enough or not getting the WOT that they should be.
I believe the adjustment requires bending a rod??
Also with the choke hooked up, the choke pull off spring is completely compressed, so I unhooked the choke linkage and wired the choke open, this also seemed to help with the WOT issue (I guess all that linkage works in unison with the secondarys??)
And Lastly, If I let the car sit for a few minutes with the engine off, the right (Passenger side) loads up with fuel
I can see it puddle up on top of the primary throttle plate.... Whats causing that is a mystery.
I then need to hold the pedal to the floor to get it started.
Well theres the rundown.. WTF is wrong with this carb
Any replies are very much appreciated as Im trying to learn to rebuild and tune these carbs
Thanks
Bob
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by olescarb
some of the aftermarket needle and seat pull clips are less than high quailty so you can run without it or use the one off your old needle. if you have enough problems i can mail you a good clip, let me know. what is the # on the top of the float you are using? what is the float level you are using?
henry @ oles
henry @ oles
Thanks for the offer but I have a ton of QJ parts here
I am using an old copper? float
I have many new ones but this one floats so I thought I would give it a go
The setting is just between 1/4 and 3/8 inch
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,071
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
Yup
All that is fine
I just took it out for a ride and here are the results.
Idle is smooth@ 750 although It idles best and with the most vacuum with the idle screws turned out only 1 turn.
My other QJ's are around 3 1/2 turns out
They all have the thin taper idle screws.
Cruise is very smooth and responsive
The secondary circuit isnt nearly as good as the other 2 QJ's I have... It seems as if theyre not opening soon enough or not getting the WOT that they should be.
I believe the adjustment requires bending a rod??
Also with the choke hooked up, the choke pull off spring is completely compressed, so I unhooked the choke linkage and wired the choke open, this also seemed to help with the WOT issue (I guess all that linkage works in unison with the secondarys??)
And Lastly, If I let the car sit for a few minutes with the engine off, the right (Passenger side) loads up with fuel
I can see it puddle up on top of the primary throttle plate.... Whats causing that is a mystery.
I then need to hold the pedal to the floor to get it started.
Well theres the rundown.. WTF is wrong with this carb
Any replies are very much appreciated as Im trying to learn to rebuild and tune these carbs
Thanks
Bob
All that is fine
I just took it out for a ride and here are the results.
Idle is smooth@ 750 although It idles best and with the most vacuum with the idle screws turned out only 1 turn.
My other QJ's are around 3 1/2 turns out
They all have the thin taper idle screws.
Cruise is very smooth and responsive
The secondary circuit isnt nearly as good as the other 2 QJ's I have... It seems as if theyre not opening soon enough or not getting the WOT that they should be.
I believe the adjustment requires bending a rod??
Also with the choke hooked up, the choke pull off spring is completely compressed, so I unhooked the choke linkage and wired the choke open, this also seemed to help with the WOT issue (I guess all that linkage works in unison with the secondarys??)
And Lastly, If I let the car sit for a few minutes with the engine off, the right (Passenger side) loads up with fuel
I can see it puddle up on top of the primary throttle plate.... Whats causing that is a mystery.
I then need to hold the pedal to the floor to get it started.
Well theres the rundown.. WTF is wrong with this carb
Any replies are very much appreciated as Im trying to learn to rebuild and tune these carbs
Thanks
Bob
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by Kalway
Have you adjusted the air valve yet? That has to be adjusted just right to get the secondaries to work great.
By the way, whats an air valve?
No I diddnt Kal......... where is it located
Thanks bro
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 1
From: North Bend Ohio
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
Of course I did!
By the way, whats an air valve?
No I diddnt Kal......... where is it located
Thanks bro
By the way, whats an air valve?
No I diddnt Kal......... where is it located
Thanks bro
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...&dept%5Fid=224
The air valve is the large flaps over the secondary barrels. There is a spring adjustment for it on the passenger side of the carburetor.
BigBlockk
Later.....
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,071
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
That's why the secondaries don't feel like they're working right! It's a screw on the passenger side but I'll wait till bigblockk or olescarb chimes in again to explain it better. I'm still quite a novice with the q-jet but mine was tuned by lars so I haven't had any reason to tinker with mine much. I've gotta fix a fuel leak at the inlet right now, actually.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by BigBlockk
Do you have the carburetor book by Doug Roe. If not, it would help for you to get it.
The air valve is the large flaps over the secondary barrels. There is a spring adjustment for it on the passenger side of the carburetor.
BigBlockk
Later.....
The air valve is the large flaps over the secondary barrels. There is a spring adjustment for it on the passenger side of the carburetor.
BigBlockk
Later.....
I ordered the book by Doug Roe but in the meantime can anybody explain why the primary on the PASSENGER SIDE ONLY would flood causing a pool of fuel on top of the throttle plate?
I think I can address the secondary problem with the air valve adjustment but Im still stumped how only one side of the primary would flood
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 1
From: North Bend Ohio
The secondary air valve has an adjustment on the passenger side of the carburetor at the top. There is a bent rod coming from the choke pulloff that acts as a air valve dampening devise. This slows down the motion of the air valve making it smoother. Anyway, right next to where this rod attach's to the air valve is a small adjustment screw. Right underneath this screw (you're going to need a mirror to see it) is a small 3/32 Allen head set screw. The idea is to (1) get a flat screw driver in the adjustment screw and hold it. (2) loosen up the set screw while your holding the adjustment screw. (3) In your case you want to loosen the adjustment screw 1/8'th of one (1) turn. (4) tighten up on the set screw. You're done.
BE CAREFUL!!!
THE STOCK AIR VALVE SPRING TENSION ADJUSTMENT IS BETWEEN 1/2 AND 1 TURN FROM CLOSED. IF YOU GO VERY MUCH MORE THAN 1 TURN YOU STAND A GOOD CHANCE OF BENDING THE SPRING INTO USELESSNESS!!!
ALSO, MAKE SURE YOU HOLD THE ADJUSTMENT SCREW BEFORE, DURING AND AND AFTER YOU OPERATE THE SET SCREW. IF YOU LOOSEN THE SET SCREW WITHOUT HOLDING THE ADJUSTMENT SCREW THE ADJUSTMENT SCREW MAY UNWIND ON YOU!!!
NOTE. This is a cut and paste of a reply I made to another thread. Most of it applies, some of it doesn't. I just didn't want to type it all again.
BigBlockk
Later.....
BE CAREFUL!!!
THE STOCK AIR VALVE SPRING TENSION ADJUSTMENT IS BETWEEN 1/2 AND 1 TURN FROM CLOSED. IF YOU GO VERY MUCH MORE THAN 1 TURN YOU STAND A GOOD CHANCE OF BENDING THE SPRING INTO USELESSNESS!!!
ALSO, MAKE SURE YOU HOLD THE ADJUSTMENT SCREW BEFORE, DURING AND AND AFTER YOU OPERATE THE SET SCREW. IF YOU LOOSEN THE SET SCREW WITHOUT HOLDING THE ADJUSTMENT SCREW THE ADJUSTMENT SCREW MAY UNWIND ON YOU!!!
NOTE. This is a cut and paste of a reply I made to another thread. Most of it applies, some of it doesn't. I just didn't want to type it all again.
BigBlockk
Later.....
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 477
Likes: 43
From: Millbrae California
the stock air valve spring setting is 3/4 turn past the valves lightly seated on your #7043202
the leak would most likely be a air bleed (syphon break) that is plugged causing the fuel to syphon into the bore after the engine is shut off OR it could be a bad bowl casting that has a fuel passage that leaks into that throttle bore.
try to take a look to see where the gas is leaking from with the top off the carb. the fuel level should not drop in the bowl other than fuel evaporation, i have seen 2 q-jet fuel bowls that had bad castings in the 30 plus years i have been doing carbs for a living so it is not very common.
henry @ oles carb
the leak would most likely be a air bleed (syphon break) that is plugged causing the fuel to syphon into the bore after the engine is shut off OR it could be a bad bowl casting that has a fuel passage that leaks into that throttle bore.
try to take a look to see where the gas is leaking from with the top off the carb. the fuel level should not drop in the bowl other than fuel evaporation, i have seen 2 q-jet fuel bowls that had bad castings in the 30 plus years i have been doing carbs for a living so it is not very common.
henry @ oles carb
