Ok guys, I'll make this as short as possible. I did the LT-1 conversion, but, have a steering problem. I used the '94 LT-1's power steering pump with a NEW steering box . Now, trying to move the wheel is like driving a semi with a manual box !!
Would I be wrong to guess there's a pressure problem ? Is the ' 94 steering pump lower pressure than the ' 76 , due to rack vs. piston steering ?
If this is the case, what's the fix ? Any and all ideas will be greatly appreciated , as usual

 

Did you add fluid? Did you deaireate the system before starting the engine? How long has it been since you finished installing the system?
Have you driven it much and still experience little or no power assist?

The pump on the LT-1 engine should have sufficient pressure to operate your C3's power steering system. The production pump in the C3 power steering system is set for around 950 psi. Most GM systems have higher pressure settings. As a matter of fact, the small diameter pressure hoses used in the C3 power steering system (i.e. pump to valve, valve to cylinder - right turn, and valve to cylinder - left turn) really don't like pressures greater than 950 psi.

So unless you just have a lot of air left in the system and it is slowly working its way out, possibly you just have a bad pump.

Jim

 

Let's see if I can answer in order . The fluid level is ok . As for driving , it hasn't even seen daily driving yet. Just around the shop area , but, it takes alot to turn the wheel . Matter if fact, it almost feels like it's " stuttering'" or turning in steps, if that makes sense. Two other Vette owners that did this conversion, swapped out the LT-1 union, pressure relief valve and spring and used the ones from their ' 76 s . Seems they have to problems, but, don't see the advantage . Any thoughts ?

 

Have you tried raising the frt. wheels starting car and turning lock to lock a few times?This usually works air out.

 

That "stuttering" you described could indicate that the hoses are reversed.

After you got everything hooked up, did you start the engine while the front end was still up in the air?

If you didn't do this, you probably should.

Put the front end up on jackstands and before starting it up, turn the steering lock to lock a few times. After you've done that, go ahead and start it up. Make sure that your arm is not in the steering wheel!

You will immediately know if the hoses are reversed because the wheel will violently turn. If it does, shut er down and reverse the hoses.

After you've done that, you will need to check for steering balance.

Center the wheels and start the engine. The wheels should not turn. If they do, it indicates that the ram is not balanced. It's a simple fix. pry the cap off the the end of the ram. You will see a screw in there. Turn it one way or the other until the wheel stops turning.

Turn it some more until the wheel just begins to turn. Then, turn it the other way, noting how much you turn it until the wheels just begin to turn the other direction. Split the difference and you should be good to go.

If you already know this, sorry for the long post!

 

This is the time-honored way of getting the air out of the system...

 

Many thanks to all who gave ideas. I will give all these ideas to the " einsteins " that are doing the work ! I will most surely let you know what the outcome is !! . Can't drive it , if I can't steer it

 

incorrect adjustement on the end nut (the one you refer to later) can make a pretty damned violent pull. also, at least on the 75, the hoses are two different sizes and impossible to reverse.

 

I was going to mention that, but wasn't sure if I was right or wrong . At this point, I don't know what's right with that damn car
But, seeing as this is a conversion, and new hoses were made, it is possible that they screwed up royally ! I just need to get there and check it myself !

 

The hoses that can be reversed are the 2 that go to the slave cylinder.When that is done it can be dangerous.

 

The hoses should criss-cross as they connect to the valve. This is a scan from the AIM. Take a look a View A.

 

I have the assembly manual and I see what you are talking about . I'll have to take it to the shop and do a complete check of the system. I have pictures from another forum member who did this conversion , and will check his hose routing against mine . He had new hoses made from the pump to the valve also and has no problems . Leave it to me to be the problem child .
So, I assume changing the pressure relief valve and spring ( in the pump ) is not to be done ?

 

Well, some good news and some almost good news today . The good news is that all the hoses are correctly connected , and the pump works fine .
Now, for the almost good news . I spent some time ' steering ' in place with the engine running . The steering DID get easier. I can " almost" palm the wheel fully to the left . However, the steering is still a bit stiff to the right . Possibly, when the car finally hits the streets, what ever air is left will work itself out ? Or, do you feel there is another problem ?

 

Still doesn't sound right. You should be able to pretty much palm the wheel lock to lock even without the engine running, if it's on jack stands.

Did you have them check the balance? Look at my previous post. If you havn't done this, it will never be right unless you got real lucky with the setting it came with.

With the front safely off the ground, and the steering centered, start the engine. If the wheels begin to move left or right at all, it is not balanced.

 

How bout some picturs of you motor in there
Its an LT1, Not LT-1

 

Ok, I went back to the shop and moved the wheel some more, running and not . Off the ground , it moves good to the left , and still a bit stiff right. BUT, on the ground is another thing entirely ! It still moves decent to the left , HOWEVER, to thr right is almost unmoveable . Still think it's a question of balance , or is something seriously wrong ?
Whe I started it up off the ground, with the steering wheel centered , it moved to the left, but, not very much . So, what next ?

 

Did you balance it? You have to balance it. If it moves at all when you start the motor, it's not balanced.

If it is moving to the left on it's own, it stands to reason that it will be easier to turn the wheel to the left. By the same token, when you turn the wheel to the right, you are essentially fighting the system.

With the motor off, and the wheels off the ground, is the resistance the same? If not, you might consider detaching the ram from the frame. This should show if there is any binding in the system and if so, you would be able to eliminate the binding. You can (and should) balance the ram while it's disconnected.

I gotta tell you though, I recently scrapped mine and went with a steeroids setup. No regrets so far. It's been about 2 months, a drive from Los Angeles to San Antonio, and several other shorter cruises.



Several years ago, I replaced the control valve and ram. I really didn't know what I was doing.

When I started it up, it began to slam violently. If I remember correctly, I managed to stop it from slamming back and forth by overadjusting the balance nut. I thought I had it all worked out and took it for a drive around the block. I could turn fairly easily one way, but the other was virtually impossible. I really had to crank on the steering wheel to do it. I knew something wasn't right, but I was sure I had the hoses on correctly. I asked someone about this. He looked at me like I was an idiot, and said very matter of factly, "reverse your hoses".

In the end, the hoses where reversed, even though they appeared correct when I looked at them. I reversed them, and after balancing it correctly, everything worked out fine.

 

Can we go through the history of your power steering system? From what you have written this is what I understand was changed.
1. You now have a different Saginaw power steering pump.
2. You now have a new/rebuilt manual gear.
3. You have new fabricated power steering hoses.

This means you still have the original control valve and assist cylinder (ram).

I assume that the original control valve and cylinder operated correctly in the past.

If the above is true.
1. Your problem should not be the pump. The pump has no idea what direction you are steering. Any pump problems would occur right turn as well as left turn.

2. Unless there is a very serious binding condition in your new/rebuilt manual gear, it should not be the cause of your problem.

3. Just changing the pump and hoses should not cause your original control valve to suddenly be badly out of balance. But sh*t happens.

4. From my AIM sheet (sorry about the size), the control valve and the assist cylinder should have their ports vertical when installed in your car. The lower control valve port should connect to the upper assist cylinder port. The upper control valve port to the lower. Unfortunately, I don't have access to my Vette so I can't double check the hose arrangement. Maybe you can post a picture of your system?

5. The discharge port from the pump should connect to the smaller port on the control valve (the port nearest the control valve end cap). The control valve port nearest the pitman arm stud should connect to the spout on your pump reservoir.

6. If all of the above checks out, we are left with air still in the system or the somehow the control valve is now badly out of balance.

Hope this helps,
Jim



The

 

The steering box is brand new from Ecklers, as is the control valve . The cylinder I didn't change . As for the hose routing , it is exactly as in the drawing from the assembly manual that you posted . Matter of fact, I have pictures of another Forum Vette owners system, and it looks identicle to mine . He also did the LT1 conversion ( see, I got it right this time ) . The pump is the one that came with the LT1 , I haven't touched it . But, there is something fishy with the steering wheel. When the ' einsteins' put everything together , somehow, the steering wheel is now 90 degrees off. Instead of horizontal at wheels straight, it's verticle . Might that shed a bit of light to this mystery ?
If anyone wants to email me directly, and not have this post go on to the end of time, my email address is BLAKBOLT@aol.com

 

I can't think of any reason how the steering wheel being off by 90 degrees can have anything to do with your erratic power assist.

However, the steering wheel being off as much as you indicate will most likely screw up your turn signal cancelling. Also, your steering gear may not be centered when your car is going straight down the road. This can result in looseness or lash in the steering.

You should follow the procedures outlined in the following paper to figure out why your steering wheel is not centered. It could be as simple as just repositioning the steering wheel hub on the steering column shaft. But you really should go through the procedure step by step to determine the source.

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...Rev18MY061.doc

Good luck,
Jim