Thanks.

 

I took it out for a spin around the neighborhood today, I've got a few areas on the fuel map that need adjusting but so far it feels good. I didn't put my foot into it all the way, I've got a catalytic converter that's running hot for some reason, but it feels stronger in the mid-range, don't know how much the cold ambient air has to do with that. No throttle tip in problems that I can feel, so far so good.

 

Do you have your air box done? I would like to see how you did that.

 

Yes it's done, I'll take some shots today and post them later on today.

 

Ok Larry here you go...

 

Here's an update and conclusion to this project. I think I've resolved the hot catalytic converter problem, the PVC fitting was connected to one bank of the plenum, all crankcase gasses were being sent down one bank of cylinders causing that one side to run hot.

With that out of the way I could tune the fuel map. These Magnaflows are louder than what I had, a bit of resonance in the cabin below about 1800 rpm.

Performance is definitely up, it's much stronger in the mid-range and upper rpm ranges. I've picked up at least 1000 rpm of usable range, before the motor would run out of steam about 4800 rpm. I keep getting asked for a HP figure from people, I guess I'll have to put it on a dyno and get a number. I found a local dyno facility that offers 3 pulls with an O2 sensor attached and corresponding readout for $60. That's a lot less expensive than I thought it would be, prices must have come down over the years.

Overall I'm extremely pleased with the performance, and not just the HP but with the cold start behavior. Just turn the key and it starts and idles without any further complaints, and with the cats fitted it doesn't leave that eye watering odor in the garage.

The wide-band O2 makes tuning a snap using the Holley software. To be fair about this I did relocate the sensor much further down stream than the original narrow band sensor. The old sensor was located in the collector of the stock exhaust manifold, not much room for the exhaust gasses from individual cylinders to mix and get a good average reading of AFR.

Cost for all this, stuff sure adds up in a hurry. :

Lower Ramjet intake $300
Eight 42lbs injectors $400
2 Ford 65mm throttle bodies (ebay) $50
Aluminum tubing & plate stock $200
Turbo hoses $80
Lokar Throttle cable $30
LC-1 wide band controller $200
Headman headers (bought 8 years ago) $130
mandrel bent exhaust tubing $100
summit 3" glass-packs $40
MagnaFlows $150
3" band clamps (4) $40
3" ball & socket exhaust coupling 2 $50
Catco converters $120
K&N air filter $60
Aeroquip Twist lock hose $30
Twist lock fittings $75
Bowtie overdrive x-member $200
misc stuff $200
========================================
total $2485.00

I've accomplished what I set out to do, I can wrap up this thread now.
I might add that I used a standard table saw to cut the pieces of aluminum stock, it works great. Instead of sawdust you get aluminum chips all over the place, but it cuts beautifully, not unlike cutting through a hardwood.

Allan

 

That is one hell of a job Allan. One you should be very proud of That makes you one of the forums certified resident experts in my book.

Bullshark

 

completely. This was no simple task by any means. I wish there were more of these A-Z projects, fully documented from beginning to end (including cost!).

Bob, I second the "certified resident expert" nomination for Allan

 

Thanks guys, your acknowledgments of the thread and compliments are much appreciated.

 

Went for a little cruise today and let the wife drive while I fine tuned the fuel map. Did I mention how much better it runs now, probably but I just want to reiterate that point. It has so much more mid and upper range punch than any other intake I've found. I know some of this is from the headers but this has been the biggest seat of the pants performance improvement I've made to a car since I fooled around with turbos a couple of decades ago.

Anyone looking for a low profile performance solution this is a definite option. The top piece is an easy fabricate, whether you do it yourself or farm it out, no need to build the entire intake from scratch.

BBshark if you read this consider this set-up. You could cut off the runners from the lower piece flush with the base, weld in some new runners with a slight curve to the opposing 3" horizontal tube and gain some ram benefit in the mid-range. My short tubes don't have any until about 6500rpm according the dyno software I have, far past what my hydraulic cam will allow.

 

Do you mean attaching the "induction tube" from the left side of the plenum to the right side of the intake? Kind of like a crossram configuration? I have tried to figure a way to do this and can't really come up with a clean configuration (because of BB port spacing).

I have the option of running a channel inside of the plenum to increase the length of the induction tube but obviously any increase in port volume is a decrease in plenum volume.

What software are you using

 

Yes, the individual port runner down tubes from the main horizonal tube(s) resulting in a cross-ram configuration. There's plenty of room to do this if your looking for longer runners. You'd need to spread the runner pipes as they traveled upwards to make room for the next opposing tube, but the fact that each bank of ports is staggered anyway (see pic) makes this easier. The injectors would end up outboard of the valley, but I think it would make a nice looking/functioning package. My port down tubes are less than 2" at their longest point, if I employed this cross-ram configuration I'd have 4.5" tubes, assuming I kept the main horizonal tubes in their original locations, but there is room to push them further outboard if you wanted.

The software I'm using is Performance Trends' Engine Analyzer.

 

I understand what you are saying and it all makes sense but I think moving the injectors outboard could be a problem. Right now they are a straight shot into the ports.

I have tried to get the runner length (above the intake mounting flange) around 5" but I have to "fold" the ports over the fuel rail and into the plenum. So I am taking plenum volume away to make my ports longer. I'm not sure if this is a good solution either.

This is where I am at right now. You can see (sort of) how the ports are crossed over inside the plenum:



Does your software evaluate plenum volume?

 

I can't think of any functional problems with the injectors located outboard, most after market EFI systems put them there. I can foresee a possible physical problem in that the fuel rail could interfere with the horizontal tube, but if the bung was located at the bottom of the down tube right with the manifold/head flange I think it could work with some planning.

The software version I have (El cheapo) doesn't have an input for plenum volume.

The drawing you posted doesn't look like something that would be easy to fabricate, it looks like something that would need to be cast, it's neat looking though. I take it all your plenum volume is in the bottom of the part that the throttle body attaches?