That's gonna look pretty under the hood! Keep the pictures coming.

 

Some progress on this intake project. I decided to use an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator instead of the factory's. This gives me more places to get a fuel supply tap from. I also relocated the factory fuel pressure gage fitting to the front of the manifold on the driver's side and added the NOS solinoids. I'm using all steel tubing for the lines, steel gives me the warm and fuzzys.

I still need to finish the lines to the NOS nozzles and fabricate an adapter block to accomidate the IAC.

I will keep the progress pics coming.

 

Nice work. I need to re-route my fuel rail also. How did you do it? Specifically splice in new pieces.

 

I bought some 1/2" steel tubing from Home Depot and used silver solder to "sweat" the splices together, like the copper pipe used in home plumbing. The 3/8" line fits nicely inside the 1/2" tubing. The Schroeder splice I did just the opposite, used 5/16" tubing which fits inside the 3/8" line.

 

I'm just about done with this part of the project. There's been a little design change since last post, I decided I needed a plenum up front to accommodate the IAC and NOS nozzle. For those of you not familiar with EFI the IAC's purpose is similar to the idle solenoid used on Quadrajet carbs, it controls the idle speed by bleeding a metered amount of air past the butterflys to control idle speed. The difference is that the IAC (controlled by the ECU) can vary this amount to keep the engine at it's programed idle. I was going to locate the IAC on the crossover pipe and have two nitrous nozzles in each horizontal intake tube, but space was becoming scarce. This change allows me to use just one nozzle and locate it under the IAC; I was also concerned about air distribution at idle. The IAC will take air from the passenger side throttle body before the butterfly and bleed it into the plenum. The travel of the IAC piston is only about 5/16", so I was able to keep the thickness inside the plenum to one inch.

I'm happy so far with the way this is turning out, I really like the injectors being located inside the lifter valley and firing directly at the back on the valves, this should help to keep the valves cleaner.

I will be installing it along with headers and larger 3" exhaust pipes (finally decided this car is more of a hotrod) and upgrading the ECU with Innovate's LC-1 wide band product. I'm also going to retro fit the car with (gasp ) catalytic converters.

 

It's looking good. I just ordered the Innovate wideband this morning from ebay. Are you getting the kit with the handheld display, or just the sensor and cable?

Ken

 

Just the sensor and cable, if you've got a laptop you probably don't need the display. The one that I have comes with a DB-9 connector and software to monitor sensor outputs. The Holley ECU also outputs plenty of info.

 

outstanding work...

 

shafrs3, How tall is your setup overall?

 

8.125" at the highest point at the plenum behind the throttle bodys.

 

OK, this creation is going on now. So far so good with respect to any interferences.

 

Just an update on this project, it's been awhile since I've posted about this, I've been busy with the "While I'm at it's", but I'm getting close to a first start to check for exhaust leaks.

I've completed the header install including 3" pipes with resonators, cats and Magnaflow mufflers out back. Bought a $100 mandrel bent pipe kit and welded it up at home. I'm trying a ball & socket exhaust connector for the first time, they're supposed to seal well, I also swapped in a BowtieOverdrives x-member to ease the exhaust routing.

Next I upgraded the ECU with an LC-1 WBO2 controller from Innovate sending O2 info to the Holley ECU. It wasn't hard interfacing the two together electrically, the sensor is back by the x-member just ahead of the cat. I located the controller behind the driver's side foot-well heat shield. Supposedly all that's required now is some minor programing of the LC-1 and the ECU and I should be good to go.

Air cleaner duties will be handled by a rectangular shaped element inside an aluminum housing located on top of the radiator. Air will be drawn from the space between the the radiator and it's support. The housing will also provide a secondary function of upper fan support holding the 11" dual Spal fan assembly flush to the radiator.

 

NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!! Looks like you will be on the road soon. Keep the pix comming. Where did you find that filter? Also, why are you running CATS?

 

Larry,
The filter is a K&N unit, nothing special, I just took some measurements under the hood to get an idea if a decent sized filter could be located in the area, it will be a tight fit. I'm building a housing from .125" aluminum using a MIG welder. Part of this project was the goal of learning to weld aluminum, I'm starting to get comfortable with it, after my usual long learning curve. The cats are for the tree hugger in me.

 

Allan, Your air filter assembly looks real good I was thinking along the same lines with Project RamJet. If I understand you correctly, you used the space along the upper part of the radiator and the core support.....correct? I would love to do something similar. I have a ~2" gap that runs along the top of the radiator beneath the core support top. Is that where you are pulling your intake air??




Bullshark

 

That K&N filter looks identical to the one my 84 Porsche 928s has.

Nice work on the intake. Looks good under there.
Will

 

i want one !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i have a question:
-how do you determine size of intake vs Hp of engine?
-how do you determine location of injectors?
-What about cooling engine no flow between heads?

 

Bullshark, that's exactly where I'll be getting my air. You must have the L88 hood, you could take the air from between the hood and the radiator support.

Jerome1979, If I understand your question correctly, when working with a dry intake it doesn't matter about the size of the intake. I built mine to provide the least amount of restriction to the heads and a straight shot to the valves. My biggest concern was the throttle body size, too big can lead to an off idle tip in problem where there is a sudden rush of power, the motor is "punchy" from a stand still making normal driving a challenge. I may end up with some of this because the throttle bodies are 64mm, we'll see.

If your question was concerning a tuned intake, I had no room under my stock BB hood to accommodate long runners to optimize mid-range torque, unless I wanted to hang the runners over the top of the valve covers, or built it in such a way that the runners actually curved down into the lifter valley and back up the the ports.


Injector location was set by the bottom half of the intake (it's a two piece design), I used the lower half of GM's RamJet intake for my foundation. The injectors are under that red plenum pointing right at the back of the valves, which is ideal. And since this is a production piece the water passages were already cast into the lower piece. If you look at the previous posts, there are pictures showing the bare lower half without the red plenum installed.

Another pic from the other side:

 

I don't have a big block,but I think using your skills to produce something like this is awesome.Most would simply just buy an injector system.Arizona Speed and Marine has a nice set-up if you've got the big bucks.I believe they will cut the runner down to any size you want.

 

I've been attempting to start this creation, so far I'm getting some popping and back-firing out of the throttle bodies, as if the plug wire order is all out of whack on the cap, doesn't sound like it's even close to starting. Tried using a little starting fluid to see if it would help. Re-checked the initial timing set at ~8 degrees, tried a couple of different fuel maps from Holley that are close to original, some richer some leaner. My old setup was TBI with 4 75lb injectors, new is 8 42lb'ers. I tried my original fuel map and trimmed off about 11% from the entire map, my reasoning is the old setup totals 300lb/hr, new is 336. Fuel pressure is set to 45psi. Another symptom is a noticeable amount of blow-by from the PVC vent while cranking. Going over the basics again I did a compression check and some cylinders seem a little low from where they were last time I checked, 160 vs. 175. I'd like to attribute this to current fuel wash on the cylinders, it hasn't been that long since the last check. The Ford throttle bodies have an idle bleed by-pass screw I've set at different locations thinking I'm not getting enough initial air, the engine appears rich. The hard part of this step is figuring out what the start-up settings should be to get it close enough to fire, once it's started it should get easier with the O2 sensor feedback available. I'm starting to wonder about the fuel in the tank, it's not that old, only a few months.

Today I'm going to check for gross vacuum leaks, this motor has always been tolerant of minor leaks, and I'm going to look at the MAP behavior while cranking. It's sensor is temporally resting next to the coil, maybe it's getting too much noise throwing it out of whack.