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Hello all. I have a 1974 with a 4-speed. I'll be dropping in a 383 in the fall but it needs a clutch now. This is my daily driver, so I'll need a clutch that is street freindly but can take an ocassional 1/4 mile run and can hande the 383.
I have been told that SPEC and Center Force are good, but to stay away from Zoom.
Anyone have first hand experience with these that can offer any recommendations? Any other brand?
What have you heard bad about Zoom? I have not heard anything bad about them.
I think Center Force is a proven product and on the low end is a stock set up from Advanced Auto. If it were me and if I had the money I'd buy the Center Force Dual Friction.
What have you heard bad about Zoom? I have not heard anything bad about them.
I think Center Force is a proven product and on the low end is a stock set up from Advanced Auto. If it were me and if I had the money I'd buy the Center Force Dual Friction.
actually im gettin it put in as we speak. I herd good things about it too.
This will bolt right up to a small block with an 11" bellhousing.! It is an 11", 10 spline, stock GM 427 rebuilt Pressure Plate, New clutch, stock resurfaced flywheel and throwout bearing all GM Balanced and unused ready to bolt in. These were used on the 427 435 HP cars so it should handle most small blocks just fine. These were bought from a friend that was restoring a 1968 L88 car. He bought these and did all the work on them to use in his car. The guy restoring his car then told him the L88 came with a 10 1/2 " heavy duty clutch and this would not be correct. It is correct for your car. I bought it to use in my 63 SWC show car but am using a TKO 600 trans and this is a 10 spline setup so the disc don't work for me either. Went with a lightweight flywheel and Centerforce dual friction to handle my 650 HP nitrous 383. I will sell the complete setup, ready to bolt in for $200 plus shipping. If you are interested E-mail me at kevindjensen@sbcglobal.net
The3, I talked with some friends that had some friends that used a Zoom and said it didn't last. No hard proof, just word of mouth.
For those of you that have the Center Force, is it easy enough on your leg to drive it on a daily basis? Aslo, I have been told that the Center Force doesn't allow any slippage - it is either engaged or disengaged. Does that make it difficult to drive, or just take some getting use?
One other question, what size clutch do I have with the 350? I have checked the manual but could not find anything. I have determined that it has the 1/8-26 spline, but is it a 10 1/2" or 11"?
One other, one other question. Anyone rebuilt a Muncie? I figure while I have the tranny out I might as well go through it too. I have found a website, I think it is 5Speed.com that sells re-build kits for the Muncie 4-speeds. Any other resources?
I ran a centerforce and it was great for a long time. But when I changed engines it vibrated all the time. not sure why, but got tired of pulling the tranny to figure it out and went with a SPEC clucth. No problems so far. As for as ebuilding the tranny, I watched mine get rebuilt and it did not seem all that difficult although there were some specific steps that were not intuitive. When the synchro went out on my TKO, I rebuilt that myself. The TKO just comes apart so much easier than the muncie tho.
McLeod is an excellent brand to consider as well as Luk Gold Series High Performance.
Excellent clutchs...but costs lots of $$.
Hayes street strip here. Good enough for me. I'd rather have the clutch slip a wee bit than leaving rear end parts behind....
Eddie
I'll never buy another Zoom clutch!!!
I just Built/Installed an 350 Iron Head ZZ4 engine that should be close to 400hp???
Drove it easy... 500 mile break-in on the new motor.
THE FIRST time I lit into it hard, I hit @ 3,500 in 3rd gear & the damn clutch slipped!! went home & double checked the adjustment & return springs, made some minor adjustment & installed a stiffer return spring and the DAMN THING STILL SLIPPS!!!
Excellent clutchs...but costs lots of $$.
Hayes street strip here. Good enough for me. I'd rather have the clutch slip a wee bit than leaving rear end parts behind....
Eddie
Something has to give. Tires and clutch are the best "weak point" in a HP setup in my opinion. IRS differentials and manual transmissions are not the best to handle big power and resist drivetrain shock unless you spend huge $. Slight clutch slip on hard launches and hard power shifts at maximum torque is not all bad IMHO.
With all the money I had in the motor and chassis I wasn't going to skimp on the pressure plate/clutch. Based on my research here on the forum, the McLeod was recommended as one of the best but higher cost, guess you get what you pay for. It's a dual friction 12" , light pedal pressure, smooth engagement and no slip when you get on it. I heard too many mixed reviews on the Centerforce II with those counter weights getting out of whack and causing vibrations. Really happy with the McLeod set-up worth the extra bucks to me.
Zoom is one of those companies which manufactures OEM equipment for the replacement parts industry. They do not make "performance parts" that I am aware of unless it was an OEM option. An as has been posted before the Zoom "performance parts" do not live up to the endurance and performance that even the OEM parts had.
There are other clutch manufacturers, but I chose Center Force which does make performance parts. A couple of important points about a center force is that the amount of holding power they have increases as the RPMs increase due to some floating weights in the splines. Apparently some aftermarket throw-out bearings interfere with the movement of these weights...there is a warning in the box that the clutch comes from requiring the use of their throw-out bearing. If you aren't sure about your throw-out bearing then follow their advice. If you know what the OEM throw-out bearing looks like then you can just get one from a parts counter like I did.
Another thing to be aware of is that with a center force clutch there will be a lot more thrust on the pilot bushing. If you don't replace your pilot bushing then you will probably have some vibrations after a short while. You may also see some increased wear in your U-Joints.